damn, that sux to get it twice, but glad you're already past surgery. Mine took 8 weeks for light duty work, but still felt like I couldn't go 100% until the 14th or 15th week.
that light duty was still good for lifting about 40-50 pounds
The one's I've seen have a bit of taper, flared wider to the top. I have never unboxed a tree, as I have learned by trial and error that I tend to get much nicer results from planting very young trees. It doesn't take long for them to become so vigorous that they catch up, and yield a better...
Every municipality I have checked about here requires boxes specifically. We definitely have options here, but they all insist on the same.
Sounds like a nursery that actually did things right could potentially be a good business.
I considered asking if I could get B&B, but I am already getting them to stray from their rules to get a species that makes more sense in that site than what's on their list, and they sounded adamant in reiterating that it must be a "minimum 24" box tree"
I would love to get the specs for that...
To keep closer to the heart of the question, how do you deal with ensuring that there aren't deal-breaker root issues? I figure that I can definitely probe the edges of the root mat, and I think I should be strong enough to tip the tree a bit to make a gap from which I can inspect one side. I...
how big was the auger? that doesn't seem wide enough to plant a 24" box... I would like to see at minimum, a 36" wide hole, and really more like 48"-60". I assume that you'd also stop a little short on the depth and then adjust by hand so as not to disturb the soil below the desired depth.
Hey guys, despite some well written presentations with peer reviewed research backing up my position, it seems that it is beyond a city arborists power to grant me permission to plant heritage tree replacements from smaller nursery stock. I am happy to share the research if there's any doubt...