I wear gloves … because I love my wife and my guitar. I buy these (link below) by the dozen. They have a 'grippy' palm to grab the rope & gear and a soft, absorbent back to wipe my face. (y)(y)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PHIHQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Rock Exotica Omni-Block was originally designed and is often used for rescue. It shortened the total system length and is easy on/off while still requiring 3-actions (double-lock). The 'swivel-bale' on the 1.5 is larger than the 1.1 bale. This allows passage of a second 'biner-gate though...
From climbing on the KnutH for quite sometime, I've found: it's that "knot-like" element under the wraps (pointed out in the photo, below) that makes the hitch succeed or fail. That lower portion of the KnutH has to be just right for the hitch to grab and release comfortably. I like it tight. ;)...
No, I haven't spent much time with it. But, I'm a die-hard SRT climber. I only use DdRT for a temporary second Tie-in. It's not likely to work it's way out with such brief use … I am and will be keeping an eye on creep, though.
I like to use the Double-d-Rope Technique (DdRT … {MRS - for the MFGenZ's}). I've been using a Blakes. But, Brocky posted a variation of his KnutH Hitch, which is also an Open Enzyme Hitch. It's an open system that can be tied with the tail of the rope — no separate hitch cord. It grabs reliably...
Today, I tried the One-eyed KnutH or Open-Enzyme on a second tie-in. I worked beautifully … much better than a Blakes.
I still, much, prefer the KnutH on the HH2, though
I tried the Michoacán on the HH2 & HHx. It worked 'ok' but not as good as the KnutH. Also, it was a little bit harder to tie and untie. KnutH for the win! IMO
It's fairly simple mechanics. The perpendicular distance from the "gravity-vector" of 21,000 lbs to the pivot-point (hinge) is 2'. That can be expressed as a counter-clockwise moment of -42,000 lb-ft . That is balanced with a "pull-vector" of 700 lbs at perpendicular distance of 60' to the...
Example of one Pull-line force estimation method: estimated weight of tree 21,000#, horizontal distance from estimated center of gravity to hinge 2', estimated perpendicular distance from pull-line to hinge 60'.
The tree rigged in this manner is similar to a lever at approximately 30:1 (60/2)...
Old trick for a small/medium back leaner:
Conventional face-notch
Letter-box from the face
Set long wedge from the back
Side/back cut from the 'bad' side
Side/back cut from the 'good' side
Wedge over with wedge-axe
FWIW: The HH instructions prefer the last "cross-over" to be on the 'spine' side. This is in order to mitigate the possibility of the 'dog-bone' getting stuck in its slot which might not allow the dog-bone to fully pinch the climb-line.