Wedgin' n jackin'

Sorry guys I posted twice, and forgot text. Never mind. This was an Oak harvest in Hereford. I had perhaps 100 of these, quality Oak.My job was to fell em round em out and extract to roadside. You can clearly see the marks left by the two wedges. Steel is my preference for such work and an 8 pound sledge hammer. You can also see where Ive cut the buttress off the back of the but to provide a firm footing. Its a while ago and working alone was still just about exeptable.
 
Just bullshit how people who experiment with some cutting techniques get called frauds and others pioneers. Alright treebuzz figure a forum for open ideas that don’t need any backstory of conventional thought


Its possible he's the Tesla of our times. Until then, I'll go with tried and true methods that are different than 1/3 depth face- 1" stumpshot, as discussed here.

There is experimenting. And there is predictably putting wood on the ground under tough conditions, successfully and safely.
 
Rico, in an earlier post you put up a vidio of a feller droping a leaning tree with plastic type wedges. I noted with interest how when the wedges had maxed out the sledge hammer positively bounced, cool. When a steel wedge maxes out its the sound that changes. It goes from a Ting to a Dink. Its the little things that make me happy.
 
If Im feeling rich I grab some K&H red head wedges, if not I will grab the yellow/orange wedges from baileys. I am very rough on wedges, and am constantly hitting them with my saws, mushrooming them, or missing badly during a big swing and busting them. A very expendable tool for me so spending too much money on them is pointless.
Ha honest, I like it. I dont get on with the plastic things. I find they disintigrate.
 
Handles on pounding tools?

Many years ago I was at the tire shop getting a repair. The tire buster was whaling away with the smasher and I saw it had a fiberglass handle. Later I asked how that worked over a wood handle. He said wood handles might last a few short weeks. They started replacing handles with fiberglass and hadn’t lost a handle since they started months before. I was sold!

As it came time to replace handles I use fiberglass on all. From a 12oz claw hammer to 8# sledge hammers. Epoxy the heads in and go to whacking

Another nice thing about glass handles is they dampen the impact. The difference is like going back to a chainsaw without anti-vibe mounts
 
Here's a problem I never solved...must be a solution.

I would buy a stack of basic wedges in various lengths. Sometimes the solution was to stack one on top of another. No space to cross them. Some wedges have slots that correspond to rails on the other side to keep them aligned. Others have a coarse surface molded in. Too often stacked wedges would spit out...scary!

Solutions???


Hey Tom, I wasn't sure you caught the drift of SouthSounds post in response to solutions. He was referring to the use of flat sheets of high density plastic to give more lift while not doubling up or tripling up on wedges and increasing the angle causing a better chance of blow out. I bought a couple of cheap cutting boards at a yard sale to make into flat stacking lift but haven't cut them to narrow size yet.
 
Handles on pounding tools?

Many years ago I was at the tire shop getting a repair. The tire buster was whaling away with the smasher and I saw it had a fiberglass handle. Later I asked how that worked over a wood handle. He said wood handles might last a few short weeks. They started replacing handles with fiberglass and hadn’t lost a handle since they started months before. I was sold!

As it came time to replace handles I use fiberglass on all. From a 12oz claw hammer to 8# sledge hammers. Epoxy the heads in and go to whacking

Another nice thing about glass handles is they dampen the impact. The difference is like going back to a chainsaw without anti-vibe mounts
The fiskars brand axes are pretty handy.
 
14598.jpg

These are pretty handy off the shelf axes too.
 
Handles on pounding tools?

Many years ago I was at the tire shop getting a repair. The tire buster was whaling away with the smasher and I saw it had a fiberglass handle. Later I asked how that worked over a wood handle. He said wood handles might last a few short weeks. They started replacing handles with fiberglass and hadn’t lost a handle since they started months before. I was sold!

As it came time to replace handles I use fiberglass on all. From a 12oz claw hammer to 8# sledge hammers. Epoxy the heads in and go to whacking

Another nice thing about glass handles is they dampen the impact. The difference is like going back to a chainsaw without anti-vibe mounts

I agree with this in that the current offering of decent wooden handles is sparse. I find that the glass handles can be a little too flexible at times but way better than the trash wooden handles I often find - some I have broken on the third strike using them. Some of the old hickory handles were great but legacy lost I guess...
 
Stackable wedges are cool, but sometimes can get unstable if my hammer strikes get a little messy.
Why don't they sell plastic wedges with a head that's twice (or thrice) as tall as normal? I've tried googling these before, if someone sells them I wasn't able to find them.
Wouldn't that be useful or am I missing something? Possible invention idea for someone lol, I'd buy a couple.

To be honest I don't wedge trees over much, unless it's a straight balanced tree that just needs a little lift to get it moving. If it's got any lean at all the wrong way, I'll put a rope up it everytime. I mostly use wedges to keep from pinching my bar, and cutting stumps as low as possible.

This might make for an enlightening thread for me.


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