I was taught long ago to maintain a 4:1 ratio when running lines. Anything less could damage the rope with repeated use. For a typical 1/2-inch rope, you’d need at least a 2-inch diameter for your pipe, bollard, pulley, or ring. Has the industry standard changed? I see guys running 3/4-inch...
Even loyalists are leery when it comes to new model offerings these days. For the money, the 395 is the best buy out there. Like Z’sTrees, I have its predecessor, the 394. Several of the companies I sub for run the 395 even if everything else they own is a Stihl. It’s a reliable and proven platform.
That’s great visual!
2) & 3) I have watched limbs about that size slip out of the loop on a poorly lowered rig. Never seen it happen with an extra turn (two wraps total.) I can remember someone quoting a sailing book speaking of the round-turn and two half hitches saying “That knot will hold...
I know guys that tie everything while there are others who rarely use knots. The biggest concern is side loading and bending on the carabiner. I use a double locking ISC Iron Wizard tied with an anchor hitch. I also take an extra round turn before hooking back to the line. It’s quick, simple...
I’ve found pawn shops will often part out battery tool kits and sell the bags separately. They’re made very well and usually sell for a few dollars each. I have one dedicated for ring slings, another for blocks and pulleys, and I carry my climbing gear in a large Dewalt duffel. Ropes all go in...
I had that happen once on my 1890HD. We used a quality chisel to tap the bolts at the edge and they backed right out. It was surprisingly easy. I also had enough foresight to use antiseize each time I flipped the knives. If that didn’t work, we would have used easy outs or tack-welded some...
I use it with uneven loops to provide an offset so when two guys are pulling a line they have secure handholds, but aren’t getting in each other’s way. With enough length you can do another couple of loops with the tail for more people.
I’ve had great success over many years with these:
Roller Guide sharpener
I use it every third sharpening, but check the depth gauges with the Oregon guide. It helps you reset everything back to a very sharp baseline. The angles are much easier to maintain as opposed to a freehand device like...
The 18” machine will change your business considerably. When we got our first Bandit 1890HD, many of the other companies scoffed at it being “too big.” We could still put the machine in 99% of the places a 12” machine would normally go. What we didn’t know before was how incredible the increase...
The Stihl HT-133 is very prone to failure. They may have discontinued them by now, so buyer beware. While the powerhead is good, the drive shaft snaps easily and the proprietary parts are especially expensive.
Does your apparatus have enough room to tie the enforcer in-line on the side “held by the man?” I think it would be easy to attach a go pro on a controlled drop.
Have you held everything by hand or has a porty been employed as well? Are you dropping loads on the system or mostly exploring...
I was thinking of a more empirical approach. Maybe put a go pro on the enforcer with a known mass on the other side. I would be curious to see how flattering of certain ropes would affect the friction as well.