DMM throw hook.

That is an interesting idea Merle on using washers or spacers... possibly another way for modding.

I've been meaning to post my First Impressions on this seemingly simply (almost primitive) game changing climbing device (and it is game changing). I have never used any hook before - though I now realise Paul (softbankhawks) was right when he says in his Treeverse videos that once you use a hook, it'll change your life (in the climbing sense at least, I'm sure). I say all this before I've even used it in the workplace - I have only messed around with it in 30' Schubert Chokecherry's so far. Should use it for work this week.

I found Moss's (and Dave's, and others who have used the hook) information regarding the hook very accurate - thanks for that! - They have posted most of the same information that I was gonna...

Trying out this hook has scattered my brain, in a good (and slightly infuriating way). It is going to put more fun into your climbing, and it will also drive you a little mad at the same time - I guess any time that you throw something to somewhere in the tree you can have excellent results, if even you have to have a bit of patience getting these results (depending on the difficulty of the target). I tried out different anchor knots straight to hook shackle (and with steel biner in between) - for simplicity I settled on Buntline Hitch from tail end of Cougar Climb Line straight to Hook Shackle. I also tried double fishermans though didn't prefer the tail exit so much, and found it was harder to untie. I threw from between 5, 10, 20, 30' for around 2 hours. The thing was getting whacked around everywhere (it'll only be a matter of time before someone gets one in the face - it'll probably be me; I'd suggest looking down when you know it's coming towards you, try and let the hard hat take the possible blow) - I was abusing the thing before I even used it for work. Part of me didn't care - I now begin to realise how useful it will be for so many things, and I want to explore the possibilities. When I was using it on the ground, I was just dragging it back through the loose dirt. It's an expensive tool to abuse - though I have to realise it's full potential - it can't be babied.

It almost seems a bit gimmicky (and cheating) in the way you can gain an attachment point - though the product itself is solid, and to see it orient itself on the branch/limb (if you feather it back with just the right amount of tension on the rope) can be very clean. You can still mess it up a few times before you get the right throw (if it's a harder throw). The hook is heavy enough - though slight twigs still have the ability to deflect it - this combined with the weight/drag of the rope can send it off course/short. How much space you have for your back swing on throwing the hook and rope will too affect the throw (as well as how well you are braced within the tree to steady yourself in throwing) - all common sense. It can also get caught on twigs and other branches beyond the intended attachment point (and if the branch union you have it through is tight) - and when you pull it hard to free it from these things - it can flick back out through the very limb you wanted it to orient itself on (I did this many times). It's a bit like gambling at the casino, except you have unlimited tries (providing your arms and shoulders can keep trying).

I feel that dmm have taken their time to make this device as user friendly as possible - so I don't really think you need to do much to it. That said; I don't really see how you can adjust the nose weight (not that you'd really need to) all that much - I believe that claim is a bit of a con. I decided to try and tighten the hex heads a bit before I climbed with it - I slightly rounded out the set screw hex head a bit while doing so; I may have used the wrong size hex head key in my haste, I don't know (or just used too much force - I am guilty of that in the past). I maybe didn't even need to tighten them in the first place, I don't know. I don't think they will come loose, but will always check them before and during use, just in case.

If I were to give it marks out of 10, I'd give it a 7. I would love to see at least 2 more manufacturer's make hooks to compete with the Captain with similar/different designs. In the future I'd also like to see something like the shackle be able to open/close easier - I don't think a quickie or quicklink would be suitable.

Ultimately I think more and more Arborists will work with hooks. I just know for me; I'm always going to want to be able to have that option.

One last thing; a steel biner would also help if you wanted to make it easier to feed more rope over the branch (should you want to feed the hook/end of the rope down to any particular point for anything), ie heavier.

Until I get a Trango Cinch (and thinner rope) or a second climbing device, I will use either Bulldog and Hand Ascender, or Blakes (ddrt) and Bulldog for 2 attachment points.

Looking forward to everyone's findings with this. I'll post more as I use it in work.
 
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Wow, I haven't had anything remotely near a hook collision with my face! I can't see it happening except in a near-suicidal rage of frustration ;-) But seriously, it's the same as a stuck throwbag or a steel biner on a lanyard, you could easily smash your face overdoing it on a pullback.

First time I had it on a job site my ground worker was playing with it on a small street tree and immediately crashed it on the sidewalk, ding dong, so much for the immaculate piece of gear. It's like putting the first scratches in a new vehicle, it's a relief to get it over with. It can take some abuse though.
-AJ
 
First time I had it on a job site my ground worker was playing with it on a small street tree and immediately crashed it on the sidewalk, ding dong, so much for the immaculate piece of gear. It's like putting the first scratches in a new vehicle, it's a relief to get it over with. It can take some abuse though.
-AJ


You are a really nice guy, moss. I would probably have been really irritated by this, to say the least, if it had happened to me. It would have been time for me to go to my "Kung-fu" happy place, working hard to find a calm center, and to be, as Bruce Lee advised, "like water".

You are a good man. I guess all of that stitched-eye splicing that you do must help you to develop great patience, and to find your center. This is causing me to see that there may be a great benefit to rope splicing, beyond just the finished product, perhaps. Like working on a Bonsai plant, perhaps splicing is something of an exercise in Zen meditation?

Does any of this ring true for you, or is rope splicing just painstaking, hard work? I'm hoping that it is the former, as it would help me to know that the splicing could almost become a ritualistic experience. Knowing that it was would provide a motive to try it, beyond the money-saving and final product aspects of the work. I hope I don't sound too wacky with this. Please forgive the derail.

Tim
 
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Does any of this ring true for you, or is rope splicing just painstaking, hard work? I'm hoping that it is the former, as it would help me to know that the splicing could almost become a ritualistic experience. Knowing that it was would provide a motive to try it, beyond the money-saving and final product aspects of the work. I hope I don't sound too wacky with this. Please forgive the derail.

Tim

Not at all wacky, there's a potential meditative/centering aspect to all aspects of tree climbing, gear making, splicing etc. I've edited a few f-bombs out of my videos, but if I find myself swearing too much during a climb I know I'm off and it's time to pay attention to what's going on with me. I attended the Fids and Fibers splicing workshop in New Hampshire recently and it was all about the inner game so-to-speak. You're definitely on the right track.

The thing to watch out for, at least for me is to be too tolerant of certain kinds of BS, sometimes the "calm person" isn't actually dealing with things. I think in the therapeutic world it's called "disassociation", a survival strategy that can get in the way when you need to stand up for yourself (gross oversimplification but you get the idea). Always a balancing act with whatever cards you're dealt.
-AJ
 
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Turned my DMM Captain kit into hook n' hitch double-ended lanyard. The idea is I'd climbing on a main rope and the hook and lanyard can be stowed or used at any time. I doubled the 15m line and flaked it in to the bag from the halfway bend. The hook or lanyard line can be pulled out or put back as needed. Climbed around on a well-branched white pine a bit to test the hook n' hitch setup stand-alone. Pretty nice, a bit more like free climbing with support. The hook is easy to take out remotely from above especially if you redirect it down and hook a branch below the redirect. With a main rope in play I think it could be quite good. Line management with the DMM bag worked well. Also... replaced the tiny red biner with a loop of throwline, easier for me to clip into a carabiner on my harness for stowage.

A lot to be learned about climbing with this setup, not a slam dunk at this point but very interesting.

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-AJ
 
Looks like TS sold out and the hook is back ordered. Ships in 3 to 4 Weeks. Well done AJ.
 
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Ok, having the hook fly back at your face is a thing (mentioned by 123craig). I only ran into the possibility yesterday when I was retrieving hook sets that were fairly close 8-10', have your hand ready in front of your face if you're pulling it back from shorter distances. A little hook Kung-fu may be needed to deflect it.
-AJ
 
Quick question; Does anyone know how the 'Petzl Connect Adjust' behaves in SRT mode with varying weight on it? (you can see where I'm going with this...)

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=301&item=15048#detail
Craig, it works great under almost any load, the more weight, the tighter the grab reacts. I've got a "Brand New" setup, that I haven't installed. I bought it before I got my TreeMotion, let me know if you want to try it out, see if your idea pans out! If it works, great. If it doesn't then you're not out anything.
 
Ok, having the hook fly back at your face is a thing (mentioned by 123craig). I only ran into the possibility yesterday when I was retrieving hook sets that were fairly close 8-10', have your hand ready in front of your face if you're pulling it back from shorter distances. A little hook Kung-fu may be needed to deflect it.
-AJ

Maybe the use of a face shield is in order during these short retrieval attempts.

Tim

P.S. Maybe it would also be possible to pass the near end of the rope around a nearby branch, as a redirect that could force the hook to come back to a point off to the side, somehow.
 
Hey Craig, I haven't had time to play with my Adjust yet, but I know from using other autobloc devices that if you use your foot,either a lock or ascender, you have to remove it to advance the Adjust. Manual slack tending only also.
 
HEADS UP there's a problem with the Petzl Grigri II used as a progress capture with the DMM Captain.

I tested the Grigri II with the hook today. Flat out no go for me.

Here's the scenario: The climber is standing on a limb, they are tied in to their main rope which is anchored above and behind the climber. The DMM Captain is hooked on a limb to the front of the climber at a relatively low angle. The climber is leaning back on the tensioned hook line, the Grigri II is holding their position on the limb. The climber leans forward slightly to perform a task which takes load off the hook line. The climber leans back expecting the hook to continue holding their position. When the Grigri II is slacked and reloaded in this scenario it will not grab. The Grigri II requires the climber to manually reload and tighten up the line for it to re-engage. If the climber does not manually re-engage the Grigri II in this scenario they could potentially swing off the limb towards the vertical axis of their main rope.

If the climber always tends slack manually when using the Grigri II with the Captain they shouldn't have any problem but I believe a device used as a hook progress capture should always grab whether the climber tends the tail or not.

The good news is the Cinch always grabs when the hook line is slacked and reloaded, even if the climber does not tend slack manually.
-AJ
 
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I was working a willow reduction today with the hook and Gri Gri combo and will totally agree with moss. Gri Gri II is a no go with the hook. It is a great tool and smooth as silk in a 3:1 just not suitable in this situation.
 
I was working a willow reduction today with the hook and Gri Gri combo and will totally agree with moss. Gri Gri II is a no go with the hook. It is a great tool and smooth as silk in a 3:1 just not suitable in this situation.

Sadly so. I mod'd the crap out of my Grigri and it gathers dust. Weep weep. With a fatter line it doesn't have that problem (as much).
-AJ
 

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