DMM throw hook.

moss · Mar 25, 2016

It turns out the Cinch works great with a foot ascender to advance on the Captain line. Instead of stepping straight down like you do on ascent, lean back and angle your leg slightly upward, the Cinch tends very smoothly.
-AJ

MikePowers321 · Mar 25, 2016

moss said:
It turns out the Cinch works great with a foot ascender to advance on the Captain line. Instead of stepping straight down like you do on ascent, lean back and angle your leg slightly upward, the Cinch tends very smoothly.
-AJ

Yes!

I look forward to trying this out.

Dave Rohach · Mar 25, 2016

Good to know Moss, I just got mine today, got the kit. So I tried it out in the shop this afternoon. I tried it with the Roll n Lock, since we just got 2-3"of sleet, now it's frozen solid @ 21*s. I'm sick of Winter! Need some 60-65* days to go out and get some real workout in the trees! I must say the 10mm Sirius is nice to work with, though! Thanks for the input, it may shorten the learning curve. [emoji848]

123Craig · Mar 27, 2016

moss said:
It turns out the Cinch works great with a foot ascender to advance on the Captain line. Instead of stepping straight down like you do on ascent, lean back and angle your leg slightly upward, the Cinch tends very smoothly.
-AJ

Thanks for this info AJ. What is the Cinch like with a foot ascender when you have your complete weight straight down on the hook (while still tied in elsewhere - but slackened), ie - straight up and down?

NickfromWI · Mar 27, 2016

Still would be fun to try it though!

love
nick

Huskyman · Mar 27, 2016

moss said:
It turns out the Cinch works great with a foot ascender to advance on the Captain line. Instead of stepping straight down like you do on ascent, lean back and angle your leg slightly upward, the Cinch tends very smoothly.
-AJ

Maybe a GriGri would work nice also? (Since I have one.)

Dave Rohach · Mar 27, 2016

It takes some getting used to, Nick. I used it all day yesterday, on 4 Crimson Maples (pruning), the Trango Cinch & Ft Ascender are a little tricky to get used to, having to push outward vs downward. The 10mm that it comes with is really a great rope, a bit tough to grab with big hands, but it auto corrects when you let it hang, so you have some control when you twist the rope to hook a branch. I never thought I'd say it, but they (DMM) got this one right on the money, when it comes to design and user friendly ability! I feel it was money very well spent! $$$
You can be suspended in open air or standing on a limb, the hardest part to get used to was having a free spot to allow the hook to swing, in order to build momentum before releasing it. I'm definitely sold on it. I'll definitely get my monies worth out of it.
Stay Safe...

moss · Mar 27, 2016

123Craig said:
Thanks for this info AJ. What is the Cinch like with a foot ascender when you have your complete weight straight down on the hook (while still tied in elsewhere - but slackened), ie - straight up and down?

Won't work that way, you'd need a redirect above the Cinch or Grigri, ie: as in a RADS.

moss · Mar 27, 2016

Dave Rohach said:
...the hardest part to get used to was having a free spot to allow the hook to swing, in order to build momentum before releasing it. I'm definitely sold on it. I'll definitely get my monies worth out of it.
Stay Safe...

You can simply coil the rope and hook in your handand throw that way.

moss · Mar 27, 2016

Right now my most frequent use of the hook has been to make it much less trouble to get out on long laterals. So far it's been hang-up free. I've jammed it a couple times but it's easy to retrieve, just pull yourself out to it.

moss · Mar 27, 2016

Huskyman said:
Maybe a GriGri would work nice also? (Since I have one.)

Grigri should be great. I have both but the cinch is a little lighter/smaller.

Steve Connally · Mar 28, 2016

I'm waiting on a response from dmm via TS to see how to adjust the tip weight

moss · Mar 28, 2016

Steve Connally said:
I'm waiting on a response from dmm via TS to see how to adjust the tip weight

Stainless steel nose bolt, 40mm of bolt inside the nose, approx. 8.5mm diameter threaded opening is 56mm deep. The bolt had loctite full 40mm of thread, a bear to loosen!

I don't know what the nose weight modification strategy is, additional 16mm length of bolt? I can imagine a hack, cut the bolt shorter, still enough to securely cap the end and put lead or other weight inside? Or it could be bolt in or bolt removed, heavy or light.

NickfromWI · Mar 28, 2016

I'm getting one of these in a few weeks. How do you go about UNhooking it? Do you have to climb over to do it by hand?

love
nick

SoftBankHawks · Mar 28, 2016

That it hooks so easily, does this mean that it is harder to relocate a miss-throw?

Dave Rohach · Mar 28, 2016

No, not at all. Just flipping the rope with a clockwise or counter clockwise motion, will turn the hook on its side and release it from the branch. It may take a couple of tries, but it will become almost 2nd nature after a few attempts. I hope this helps you out.

TimBr · Mar 28, 2016

moss said:
Stainless steel nose bolt, 40mm of bolt inside the nose, approx. 8.5mm diameter threaded opening is 56mm deep. The bolt had loctite full 40mm of thread, a bear to loosen!

I don't know what the nose weight modification strategy is, additional 16mm length of bolt? I can imagine a hack, cut the bolt shorter, still enough to securely cap the end and put lead or other weight inside? Or it could be bolt in or bolt removed, heavy or light.

In looking at the photo and illustration (both of which are great, by the way; Thanks, moss!) I think if I owned that hook and bothered to remove that screw, I'd replace it with a stainless steel hex-head bolt. That would allow me to put a socket wrench on it in the future, for more leverage and an easier time removing it in the future.

Tim

Dave Rohach · Mar 28, 2016

Tim, have you ever heard of dielectric corrosion, it's dissimilar metals with direct contact. You would need to apply Nolox of a similar type of material to keep the 2 types of metal from corroding, this in turn would not allow for Loctite or thread seizing application. Which means the bolt that you use would loosen after repeated hits and vibration. As a retired electrician, this is something that I had to deal with every day. AL to SS(chromium alloy), are obviously dissimilar materials. After using the Hook for the past 2 days, I don't see a need to weight the nose or tip of the Hook, this is just my opinion, but I am extremely versed in Cathodic & Dielectric corrosion. I also, IMO, don't see the weight of a Stainless bolt making any real game changing difference in the performance of the Hook. I hope this helps or anything at least clarifies some of your concerns. Be Safe!

Steve Connally · Mar 28, 2016

The reason I wanted to change the weight on the hook was to increase. I really don't want another line in the canopy. I just want to tie it on the tail of my cougar. throw on the bdb and go to town. Moss indicated, or maybe it was you, the climbing line would be too heavy to operate the hook as it was intended. That's my deal. I really only want to use it on my tail not a separate system. In my current work situation, there's only but so much shit I can drag around with me before I get harassed for slowing production.

monkeylove · Mar 28, 2016

Dave, I was just going there. As Dave said a barrier between the 2 metals should be applied, especially in an outdoor application. Using Moss's numbers I would believe that the bolt is probably 10mm. That being the case it could be shortened to 15mm long without any negative effects on it's holding strength. 1-1/2 * dia is all that is needed, after that the gains are minimal. It would probably take tungsten powder to get the most weight difference if someone was so inclined to alter the nose weight.