Felling Large Hollow Oak Split In Half

hseII said:
Harrumph!!

Anything bigger than 50cc for me Please.

For instance, a 362R with a 25” is sweet as the next size up from a 200T if I’m elevated.


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Again agreed. I run a small limbing saw, then a 50 cc saw with an 18" for smaller wood, a 60-70cc saw with a 28" bar, a 85-95cc saw with a 42" bar, and the big boy with a 60" to 72' bar. Full wrap on everything past the 50cc saw.
 
rico said:

Since your still cock blocking me on Youtube I figured I would drop this here Kenny. I don't mind sending biz your way and lining your pockets if someone might learn something.

I'm gonna keep this super chill and to the point Kenny-

You look to have bypass on all 3 undercuts. No matter how small the bypass always try and take the time to get your undercuts perfect. You will thank me later.

You cut all your hinge on the second tree. Alway be aware of where your tip is on your back-cut, and also slow down when your tree is going over. Just tickle your hinge if necessary. You also appear to have a some sort of follow through with your saw as your trees are going over. Follow through is great when were shooting a basketball or hitting a baseball, but not something you want to do when falling trees.

It looks like the last tree almost got away from you. It appears the bobcat saved it from going a little left on you. A look at the butt at 7:47 in the video tells the story as to why.

I commend you for busting out some wedges, but I would highly recommend you alway put 2 side by side whenever possible. That way if you spit a wedge you have a backup. If you spit a single wedge at the wrong time your tree can sit back, and that little bit of movement can be all that is needed to loose a tree over backwards. I would also learn to work your wedges a little more as your making your back-cut. Stop back-cutting for a moment and pound one wedge tight, then alternate between your 2 wedges and slowly start pushing your tree over. This can all be done in coordination with your tagline. When you know your got her, gentle work your hinge and send her on here way!

All in all some pretty good cutting, but you just need to tighten that shit up a little buddy. Always strive for perfection at the stump. Certainly can't fucking hurt. right?
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Thanks for all the tips. Keep them coming!
 
hseII said:
Serious business,

A longer bar makes things SO MUCH BETTER when dealing with larger trees.

Consider adding one to your toolbox so when larger trees are to be done, you can pick & choose which side of the tree you will cut on depending on the Hazards & Obstacles.

Bonus feature: you won’t have to spend the additional time under a Hazard tree girdling the stem.


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Yup was telling myself that yesterday. Ordering a 36" for the 390
 
hseII said:
If you are a member on Arborist Site or OPEforum.com, reach out to member @Radio: he has sold me a 5 gallon bucket of chain over the last couple years.


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Yea, I always buy my chains in a 5 gallon bucket?
 
rico said:
Yea, I always buy my chains in a 5 gallon bucket?
Click to expand...
Ever run a 1201 Echo?

Think of a modern or New 090.

5a5917c0c9f0e9b880ea91d62103ddc2.jpg




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rico said:

Since your still cock blocking me on Youtube I figured I would drop this here Kenny. I don't mind sending biz your way and lining your pockets if someone might learn something.

I'm gonna keep this super chill and to the point Kenny-

You look to have bypass on all 3 undercuts. No matter how small the bypass always try and take the time to get your undercuts perfect. You will thank me later.

You cut all your hinge on the second tree. Alway be aware of where your tip is on your back-cut, and also slow down when your tree is going over. Just tickle your hinge if necessary. You also appear to have a some sort of follow through with your saw as your trees are going over. Follow through is great when were shooting a basketball or hitting a baseball, but not something you want to do when falling trees.

It looks like the last tree almost got away from you. It appears the bobcat saved it from going a little left on you. A look at the butt at 7:47 in the video tells the story as to why.

I commend you for busting out some wedges, but I would highly recommend you alway put 2 side by side whenever possible. That way if you spit a wedge you have a backup. If you spit a single wedge at the wrong time your tree can sit back, and that little bit of movement can be all that is needed to loose a tree over backwards. I would also learn to work your wedges a little more as your making your back-cut. Stop back-cutting for a moment and pound one wedge tight, then alternate between your 2 wedges and slowly start pushing your tree over. This can all be done in coordination with your tagline. When you know your got her, gentle work your hinge and send her on here way!

All in all some pretty good cutting, but you just need to tighten that shit up a little buddy. Always strive for perfection at the stump. Certainly can't fucking hurt. right?
Click to expand...
Just to add...
In a urban setting, always use a minimum of two wedges and a tag line when felling. (Why wouldn’t you? Takes a while 10 minutes max!) Read you’re insurance policy and I bet you will be very surprised that they likely state you cannot fell trees at all.
 
hseII said:
Ever run a 1201 Echo?

Think of a modern or New 090.

5a5917c0c9f0e9b880ea91d62103ddc2.jpg




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Click to expand...
Jeez hsell, are you trying to make me jealous. I have been lusting after that saw for a long time. I have a couple 090's, but that thing was just plain sexy. Straight up saw porn! Talk to me bro, how do you like it?

Just noticed that beautiful Cannon bar. Pussy!!

IMG_1327.webpIMG_1326.webp
 
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rico said:
Jeez hsell, are you trying to make me jealous. I have been lusting after that saw for a long time. I have a couple 090's, but that thing was just plain sexy. Straight up saw porn! Talk to me bro, how do you like it?

Just noticed the Cannon bar. Pussy!!

View attachment 59335View attachment 59336
Click to expand...

Pussy?

You know those Stihl bars get too floppy past 41”.

Cannon are heavier/stiffer than the White bars because of the extra belly.


I’ll try to dig out pictures tomorrow & share them here.

We ran it straight out of the box against a Ported 090 & a SP125: obviously the other 2 were loosened up & pulled ahead, but not as much as you’d think verses a 2016 year model saw.

The SP was the closest in displacement but the Echo sounded like a cross between those 2. Distinct.

No Clutch cover or Wrap available but a tig hand could correct problem #2.

I sold it to Kensey in Montana because I felt guilty every time I started it up knowing I was running what was a $2,100 saw at the time.

Robin has found a more economical way to get them over here lately so the price has come down a touch.

Uncle Lee has 3 or 4 of them to go along with his 28 Dolly 166s.

1 of those Dolly is a big bore: that’s another on the list.


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rico said:
Jeez hsell, are you trying to make me jealous. I have been lusting after that saw for a long time. I have a couple 090's, but that thing was just plain sexy. Straight up saw porn! Talk to me bro, how do you like it?

Just noticed that beautiful Cannon bar. Pussy!!

View attachment 59335View attachment 59336
Click to expand...

P.S.,

Look close at the Texas button on the Echo: it’s more akin to a valve.

It will sit there & idle till you close it.


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