Compact Bulldog Bone

Will, yes that is exactly what has happened and what the added "handle" is now meant to prevent.
 
Another warning !After a long descent maybe/ probably too fast .. The top links i just touched were hot as a stove top burner! Didn't want to keep my finger there for more than a second.
 
Hmm when you stopped, did it glaze the sheath of the rope where it was stopped, touching the links? Next we're going to need bigger heat-sinks on the links for the boy racers.

Then there will be bigger louder exhausts, go faster stripes, neon lighting...
 
The dogbone of the HH, the pin in the WR and the upper pin in the RR can all get hotter than I want to hold onto. The fewer and smaller the mass of friction parts, the hotter it's going to get. I've been know to temper my descents with heat in mind. At the same time, when left on the rope after a fast descent, I've never found visible damage to the rope sheath. Polyester covers should provide a wider margin of safety against heat than nylon covers.
 
I have thought about going to my local machine shop and making some counter sinks the perfect size like gmcttr suggested but don't want to go through the hassle. I might stack two or three washers together depending on the width of them together and screwing them in on each side of the upper arm.
 
TylerHoffman said:
I have thought about going to my local machine shop and making some counter sinks the perfect size like gmcttr suggested but don't want to go through the hassle. I might stack two or three washers together depending on the width of them together and screwing them in on each side of the upper arm.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't the holes need to be tapped and threaded on the Bulldog? So no retainer would be needed on the inside where the rope runs?
 
So guys, I've just received my BDB and with the new things that have come to light I am looking for a solution so I can get to using it. What I've found is that the slic pin from the ZK1 fits the holes in the lower arm of the BDB and the 3/4" bollard. This keeps the upper arm from by passing the lower arms and acts as a tending sheave. The only problem is that when removing the slic pin the tab springs open before exiting the second arm, I am able to drepress it with the blade of my knife but now I have two items that I could possibly drop. So, I am thinking I might file a small chamfered slot in the second arm so the tab remains depressed but I still need to tether the bollard and the slic pin so I dont drop them. Any thoughts?
 
TreeLogic said:
Wouldn't the holes need to be tapped and threaded on the Bulldog? So no retainer would be needed on the inside where the rope runs?
Click to expand...
possibly, i left the BDB at work so i can't play it tonight. I will tomorrow night and let the thread know. I'm not sure from the photos if Gordon threaded his or not.
 
TylerHoffman said:
possibly, i left the BDB at work so i can't play it tonight. I will tomorrow night and let the thread know. I'm not sure from the photos if Gordon threaded his or not.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking he did as there's nothing protruding on the insides of the arms but that's just a guess.

Worthaug, I'm not quite picturing what you tried but did you test what Gordon suggested earlier in the thread...for the time being? I wouldn't modify it just yet cause one of the best things about this device is there's nothing to drop. I'm sure he'll chime in with a good answer. He's probably in the shop working on them right now :)
 
Reed, it would be better if you put the 3/4" bollard with the slick pin in the upper arm rather than the lower, as a fat bollard in the bottom arm will interfere with slack tending. The Bollard in the upper arm should stop any cross loading.

Tyler, mine are threaded. I will add the "handles" for any user that already has a Bone, if you will send the Bone back for this retro fit. (as soon as I can produce new parts)
 
surveyor said:
Reed, it would be better if you put the 3/4" bollard with the slick pin in the upper arm rather than the lower, as a fat bollard in the bottom arm will interfere with slack tending. The Bollard in the upper arm should stop any cross loading.

Tyler, mine are threaded. I will add the "handles" for any user that already has a Bone, if you will send the Bone back for this retro fit. (as soon as I can produce new parts)
Click to expand...
Surveyor, I have been testing it for the last hour with it in the bottom hole and it tends slack beautifully since the bollard rolls on the pin. I've also developed a method of removing the slip pin fairly easily but now I have to figure out how to keep from dropping it...
 
I will probably put this configuration to work for the next couple easy climb days but will most likely resort to the outboard tabs (handles) on the upper arms.

Regardless, this is a super cool device that I am looking forward to using often. Thanks Gordon!
 
Gordon, I like the "fix" solutions, but I'm sure they'll add to the cost. What about something really simple like putting the arms into a vice and the end of the upper arms out just an 1/8 of an inch or so. Splaying out the ends just a bit might sound cruel and crude to some, but it sure could work.
 
Just a suggestion worthaug but get the updated version. Needing no tools, no hitch, no pulley, and nothing to drop (when you've already got a million things to worry about, being in a tree) is a wonderful thing. The only time I've ever even removed a bollard was today to test a different rope. Normally it's just open the clips, insert rope, close clips, and climb.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom