Compact Bulldog Bone

monkeylove said:
I do Tico, Vortex and the 5/8 bollard. However my centerline is only 1 inch (look back a few pages), so anything I say make only work with mine. Not sure how many are out there with a super short centerline.
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Yes I had read it a few days ago and seen the modified measurements...I would have bought a cougar blue but it's out of stock anywhere apparently but i rather be climbing on a 12mm nothing more, cause it's easier on the cam of the hass...a fatter rope will occasionally get stuck in there like the one I have, stiff as a cable...
 
This forum needs more pictures... Photos from on the job, in the garage, and 200' rec climbs. If anyone hasn't already, i can make a Facebook page. Gordon will need to be prepared for more customers. Please add me on Facebook so i can add members to start the group!

Also, more boners will be notified about the bones brigade that do not have a tree buzz account.
 
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oceans said:
It's a cool idea Tyler, though I now think I may be one of those that will miss out on lots of goodies since I am not on Facebook. I'm quite torn in regard to FB.
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Facebook is for fun and share experience but when it comes to knowledge and open-source projects it fails. Can't really search, threads don't exist, it is a talk about at the moment kind of thing. Great for tree climbers, spread the word of what you are doing and the fun you are having but it gets in the way, in my opinion or real progress.
 
TylerHoffman said:
I still enjoy my HTP, and escalator for climbing with the bone. ...
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TylerHoffman said:
i forgot to add i am using the 5/8" bollard.
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I don't understand at all.

I gave it another try today with the 3/4" bollard on 11mm Sterling HTP. My experience is that the 3/4" will provide more hold for a given rope than the the 5/8" bollard.

Same results for me. No hold at all. Not even what I would call a controlled descent. Switched to the HH so I could get a climb in.
 
I believe that it more than just the bollard size but I have really studied this yet since mine worked flawlessly from the start. My thought is that while the larger bollard should give you more friction by first impressions and single thought processing (no disrespect intended). For every action there is a reaction and my thought is that since the bollard is larger it makes contact sooner, thats a given. What I think may be happening next is that because there is less room to move that the upper link may not be pivoting around as much. I think this is a very small amount of less movement but this in my opion would cause the "S" shape to be lazier by a small fraction. We all know how important that upper "S" is, the friction that it causes is part of the reason we change pivot points and modify lowers. The RR is very similar and is also being dialed in and modified by many of us. Just my humble opinion but the next time your BDB or RR doesn't grap right away look at where your hand goes and what you do to correct it.
 
Here is a tip about the Bulldog Bone on a marginally narrow rope that does help with grip. If you use a 7/16"x7/8" bollard on the friction links (at the outboard end of the links), you get a bit better grip. Use the 5/8" bollard on the inner end of the top friction link. You can use the long bollard on either or both friction links. This long bollard not only narrows the gap at the friction link, but it also lifts the outboard end of the friction link off the arms, creating more of a bend in the rope. If you try it and get satisfactory results you should then install the bollards with locktite,
 
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