X-rigging rings

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These might work out well for crane work. Shackles are nice, but I'd rather see a ring swinging from the hook.


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The rings don't have a large enough hole to fit on a crane hook.
Shackles are "the bomb" for crane work, if used correctly.

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I personally hate shackles for most of my crane rigging, except for single sling applications are okay.

I do prefer to use multiple spider legs and tie them.
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Tying (as discussed in past forum posts) is against the rules for cranes work; as I remember Classic Truck discussing. No knots of any kind are allowed.

My point was, if no knots allowed in crane picks, then no knots should be allowed in my rope rigging. I'm taking some of the same size limbs in rope rigging, 500 to 2,500 lbs I mean and generating momentum on the drops.
 
A huge X-Rigging Ring with big strength synthetic sling material would be light, easy to work with and last a long time due to the ring being so friendly to the sling.

you could whip that thing around the tree without fear of shattering your elbow if it hit you, choke it, hook it and cut.

No tying involved, no heavy shackle, no unscrewing of the shackle pin. Just choke, hook and be done with it.
 
I think a sling with a current large ring and then an even larger ring on the other end would be awesome. Then you could run it like a R-r friction saver or choke the large ring through the extra large ring for a redirect or whatever..
 
Im interested in the idea of a "bix" size xrr for single leg crane picks...shackles are heavy and clumsy. Lets get one out Xman. A big ol amsteel fatty. The "Bix". We rent cranes and most always have smooth hooks, but a ring or chafe sleeve ,minimum, would be ideal to round out the other end for durability.
 
Oh, why thank you Xman... I don't know where I come up with this stuff.
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Get the ball rolling on this one will ya? I'm sure it will be plenty strong.
 
If you had a big enough ring that would work but you would still need the hook near you to do that. I never have the hook near me at the rigging point. The joker hook or shackle is much better. You can lock the latch on the hook and never have to take the sling off the hook.
 
those joker hooks you use work great I'm sure. Question: Do you throw the hook around the tree trunk? If so, can it hit you sometimes? I'm not being rude or anything, serious question, as I haven't used Joker hooks yet. What if a sling and large joker hook hung down off the ball hook, all the time, say 20 feet and it's the new hook, then a very large XRR crane sling would attach and detach from that? Just thinking. In real work, maybe a sling with joker hook is great enough. Do the gates on joker hooks meet law requirements? Does the hook on the crane ball need a pin type latch on the gate; if so, why not joker hooks?
 
I do throw the jhooks around the tree but sometimes take the hook off and throw just the sling.
I have also had the sling and hook hang down and used another sling to choke the tree and hooked it back to the j hook. that works well too.
The gates on the j hooks meet all requirements and are rated for use in the choked configuration.
The main hook does not have to have a locking latch by regulations unless it is used for life support.

All good questions.
 
I use the joker hooks on my slings. A couple ops had an issue in the past since they don't lock, all I did to ease their minds is use a half hitch above the final termination with joker. And face the joker downwards.

The half hitch helps take up slack, too, since all of my slings are 20' round slings. I'm aware the half hitch may downgrade the capacity somewhat, so I don't max them out, and I usually use more than one.
 
I’m excited about the next new thing coming too. Can’t wait to see what it is but, I’ve got to tell you I’m not done being giddy with excitement about my “old” XRRs. Today I was working at a property that I put two or three days into every year. I was taking down some modest Bay trees (ten to twenty four inches) that were growing around two big water tanks and the related pipes and pumps etc.. I did the trimming I wanted to do on a tree outside of the danger zone, placed my three ring XRR in an ideal spot and set to be retrievable remotely. Came down on top of three other trees tip/top tying pieces of stem and brush and flying it out over all the tankage. That was fun but, then the best part was I just put the retrieval ball on my rigging line and jerked the XRR sling out of the tree it was in and let it swing past my tree. I was thinking there’s no way I would do that with my steel rigging block. Not having to climb that one more tree after eight hours of working at a dead run-Ahhh!-thanks Xman.
 
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I use the joker hooks on my slings. A couple ops had an issue in the past since they don't lock, all I did to ease their minds is use a half hitch above the final termination with joker. And face the joker downwards.

The half hitch helps take up slack, too, since all of my slings are 20' round slings. I'm aware the half hitch may downgrade the capacity somewhat, so I don't max them out, and I usually use more than one.

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A half hitch wont downgrade the capacity at all. It is still the same bend as a choked sling.
 
I haven't used it much but the few times i have, I've been loving my home built rigging friction saver with a block on one end and a large x-rigging ring on the other. What an amazing labor saver not having to climb back up and get the block. Thanks David for this excellent tool.

More rigging rings in more configurations are in my future.
 
Hey Ryan,

I love my rigging rings too. I built a 2 ring 'saver' a-la your standard ring and ring friction saver but with two large rings, and then a variant of tom hoffmanns uSAVER with an XRR on one end.

If you look at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tz9fNjSqwdA I have been playing with the idea of using a block/ring combo for quite a while. It works, but its clunky, spotty on retrieval and placement, and carries certain 'dangers'...like the block pulling the ring over the other side and plummeting down if not enough tension is on the throwline.

I would encourge you to check out the rigSAVER that I made, it is much more reliable in remote configurations can be set and retrieved from a choked position and is way smaller and lighter. Here is the thread on it in case you missed it.

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=361173&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

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I saw a picture of a pinto and an x ring where it looked like the pinto and the ring beat each other up pretty bad. Have you seen that at all?
 
I haven't used a pinto and an X-Rigging ring together yet.

but quite a few aluminum blocks and X-rigging rings.

the aluminum blocks get some noticeable wear for sure on the outside edge.

we have been taking big weights and it's cosmetic, but you can definitely see and feel the damage.

When you have a nice pretty dmm, it's a little sad.

then again, if you notice, those normal pretty anodize colors wear off quite fast anyway. Not like the black hardcoat anodize.

I'll post some pictures when we slow down this summer maybe.


I have a ton to add to the X-rigging ring thread, just no time at all right now.
 
Kevin, I havent really used the XRR in conjuction with the pinto RIG, however I have been using the RIG with a 3" steel rigging ring and a 2-1/2" steel rigging ring for quite a while... both in basket and hanging configuration and my pinto doesnt have any inordinate wear.
 
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Kevin, I havent really used the XRR in conjuction with the pinto RIG, however I have been using the RIG with a 3" steel rigging ring and a 2-1/2" steel rigging ring for quite a while... both in basket and hanging configuration and my pinto doesnt have any inordinate wear.

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Thats reason why I made mine with a soft loop.
 
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