rope runner

Here's Swing's MO... I'm just a bronze skinned, super irie tree climbing dude just doing my thing. Every once in a while I jump on the Treebuzz to let everyone know that they're wrong and the only rope, saddle, climbing device, saw, and spikes to use are the ones I use and every other consideration is just against Jah's will mon!

Lol! :-P

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
macswan said:
Skip it. I been getting these nasty, deep effing cracks. They hurt like they get paid for it. I have got to start moisturizing
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Yeah, get a handle on that ASAP. It is cool to show off on how tuff we are because we have a tuff job, therefore we are, too. I used to be able to handle Pyracantha and roses bare handed. Having calluses that thick allows you to be even more brutal with your hands. Over time you will get nerve damage and vascular withdrawal.

If you want to be able to continue doing even simple things like picking up a pencil to write your name, take care of your hands now.
 
DSMc said:
Tim, the two tools have distinct differences, in fact about the only thing they have in common is they are both fully mechanical. Either one will do a good job but the differences, for people that have both, can lead to trim vs removal preference.
The Bone can be removed from the rope with no finesse or worry of dropping it or a part. It self-tends slack easily when going straight up and down the rope. All these things make it particularly well-suited to the heavy and messy, and mostly, up and down removal jobs.
The Runner, with its bottom pulley, will tend slack effortlessly regardless of the work angle. This is huge in the convoluted and awkward angles often encountered on trim jobs. There are many "finesse" movements in trimming and this blends in well with the Runner's personality.
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Dave, sorry for taking so long to respond to this post. I just wanted to say "thank you" for taking the time to so beautifully spell out the differences in how the Rope Runner functions compared to the Bulldog Bone.

Your post was exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for, and it is the only time that I've read such a clear description of the contrast between the two devices. Thanks again.

Tim
 
I just got my RR in Dec. while it was still warm up here in Vermont. Now that the cold has finally set in I really see the need for a Slic Pin key. I think I saw where TreeStuff has one in the works. But until they have that to offer I thought I would see what I could use in the meantime.

Here is what I was able to put together from a spent 30-06 casing and less than $5 of stainless hardware from the Ace Hardware store.

Slic Pin key 1.webp

I used a stainless socket head screw that had a lot of unthreaded shank and cut off most of the threaded portion, a stainless fender washer, spring (not stainless), and a Stainless Nyloc nut. The empty bullet casing is from a 30-06 that was shortened and works pretty well but if there is something a tad smaller it would work even better.
Slic Pin key 2.webp

The next step will be to incorporate some sort of tether to the washer so as to be able to attach the key to either my saddle or to the RR. Also need to find a bullet caliber that is slightly smaller and perhaps a stainless spring.
 
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