rope runner

Okay so a few more people have asked about more of these. I am looking but not having much success finding any still around. I can certainly get some more made but for those who have them here is my question... Is the thickness okay (@1/4") or would you like them better if they were about (@1/8" or 3/16"). Also would you prefer Plastic or rubber over the wood. They all have different material thickness but some overlap. The prices all vary considerably so I want to choose what the people like best. Thanks.

20151208_165224-jpg.34835
I think they're great like they were frank
 
Okay so a few more people have asked about more of these. I am looking but not having much success finding any still around. I can certainly get some more made but for those who have them here is my question... Is the thickness okay (@1/4") or would you like them better if they were about (@1/8" or 3/16"). Also would you prefer Plastic or rubber over the wood. They all have different material thickness but some overlap. The prices all vary considerably so I want to choose what the people like best. Thanks.

20151208_165224-jpg.34835
The wood ones have been fine for me, I sanded the edges down a bit, they have held up fine, I mainly only use my RR for pruning so doesn’t get dinged up or anything.
 
How about Handroanthus, called “Ipe” in the construction world. Find a contractor in your area building a deck with it and grab some off-cuts. Stuff’s incredible.
 
After much consideration I finally did it. My RR arrived on wed. I have a TIP from the trusses in my shop and gave it a go. First thing I noticed with bare hands the sharp edges dig in pretty good on the beak when releasing. It was better with gloves and I normally use gloves. I did a rec climb yesterday morning before the rains came in to set my Treestuff Tree-o-cache bucket and used the RR. I spent about 30 minutes in the tree running it through its paces. I know most say its a little twitchy out of the box, but I cant say I really noticed that. We hit it off right away, short easy limb walks, a nice drop and swing to a lower limb, nothing crazy, just getting a feel for it, didn't have any oh shit moments and its kinda nice not having to make sure the hitch is set like I got into the habit of doing with the HH.

Back to the finger issue. I read through this entire post last night and as I expected, I'm not the first to encounter this problem. Liked the walnut cushions, so out in the shop this morning I went to making some out of some Purpleheart wood. Project was moving right along when I put the RR back on the rope and started examining how much of the area I wanted rounded off. At that point I was thinking that just softening the sharp edge of the beak would probably be adequate. So I aborted the wood for now and will give this a try. Felt much better messing around with it in the shop. But a few hours in the tree may prove different, if so, the wood project will continue.

So now to my question, I currently have Tachyon and Notch Dragon ropes in service. I messed around with both with the RR in the shop and they both were fine with the bollard wide open. I personally like the Tachyon better, do to its softer hand and larger diameter, it has a little more stretch but that doesn't really bother me since I've been on Tachyon for two years with a HH. My Tachyon is showing its age and use and I'm ready to retire it to sailboat duty. I read a lot of folks like the Yale 11.7 and the RR, is that a better choice than the Tachyon? Anyone have a good comparison between the two? Other good choices similar to Tachyon?

Thanks
 

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After much consideration I finally did it. My RR arrived on wed. I have a TIP from the trusses in my shop and gave it a go. First thing I noticed with bare hands the sharp edges dig in pretty good on the beak when releasing. It was better with gloves and I normally use gloves. I did a rec climb yesterday morning before the rains came in to set my Treestuff Tree-o-cache bucket and used the RR. I spent about 30 minutes in the tree running it through its paces. I know most say its a little twitchy out of the box, but I cant say I really noticed that. We hit it off right away, short easy limb walks, a nice drop and swing to a lower limb, nothing crazy, just getting a feel for it, didn't have any oh shit moments and its kinda nice not having to make sure the hitch is set like I got into the habit of doing with the HH.

Back to the finger issue. I read through this entire post last night and as I expected, I'm not the first to encounter this problem. Liked the walnut cushions, so out in the shop this morning I went to making some out of some Purpleheart wood. Project was moving right along when I put the RR back on the rope and started examining how much of the area I wanted rounded off. At that point I was thinking that just softening the sharp edge of the beak would probably be adequate. So I aborted the wood for now and will give this a try. Felt much better messing around with it in the shop. But a few hours in the tree may prove different, if so, the wood project will continue.

So now to my question, I currently have Tachyon and Notch Dragon ropes in service. I messed around with both with the RR in the shop and they both were fine with the bollard wide open. I personally like the Tachyon better, do to its softer hand and larger diameter, it has a little more stretch but that doesn't really bother me since I've been on Tachyon for two years with a HH. My Tachyon is showing its age and use and I'm ready to retire it to sailboat duty. I read a lot of folks like the Yale 11.7 and the RR, is that a better choice than the Tachyon? Anyone have a good comparison between the two? Other good choices similar to Tachyon?

Thanks
I just put rubber tubing on the beaks after I attach it to rope.
 
After much consideration I finally did it. My RR arrived on wed. I have a TIP from the trusses in my shop and gave it a go. First thing I noticed with bare hands the sharp edges dig in pretty good on the beak when releasing. It was better with gloves and I normally use gloves. I did a rec climb yesterday morning before the rains came in to set my Treestuff Tree-o-cache bucket and used the RR. I spent about 30 minutes in the tree running it through its paces. I know most say its a little twitchy out of the box, but I cant say I really noticed that. We hit it off right away, short easy limb walks, a nice drop and swing to a lower limb, nothing crazy, just getting a feel for it, didn't have any oh shit moments and its kinda nice not having to make sure the hitch is set like I got into the habit of doing with the HH.

Back to the finger issue. I read through this entire post last night and as I expected, I'm not the first to encounter this problem. Liked the walnut cushions, so out in the shop this morning I went to making some out of some Purpleheart wood. Project was moving right along when I put the RR back on the rope and started examining how much of the area I wanted rounded off. At that point I was thinking that just softening the sharp edge of the beak would probably be adequate. So I aborted the wood for now and will give this a try. Felt much better messing around with it in the shop. But a few hours in the tree may prove different, if so, the wood project will continue.

So now to my question, I currently have Tachyon and Notch Dragon ropes in service. I messed around with both with the RR in the shop and they both were fine with the bollard wide open. I personally like the Tachyon better, do to its softer hand and larger diameter, it has a little more stretch but that doesn't really bother me since I've been on Tachyon for two years with a HH. My Tachyon is showing its age and use and I'm ready to retire it to sailboat duty. I read a lot of folks like the Yale 11.7 and the RR, is that a better choice than the Tachyon? Anyone have a good comparison between the two? Other good choices similar to Tachyon?

Thanks
I really enjoyed a tiny, stiff, static kernmantle (Samson static) with my RR.
I love it on tachyon.
I haven't ever managed to get it dialed in on my prism, but seemingly everyone loves the Yale 11.7 with them.
 
The next round of quickies should be back to the right size.

Darn, and here I jumped the gun and modified mine.

A slight bit of modification to the runner allows the new quickie pin to fit. basically just enough drilling to remove the anodizing from inside the hole. No idea if it's approved or not, but it does work and in my opinion removed so little metal as to be a non issue. we're only talking about ~1/32 of an inch at best

@theatertech87; These posts of yours are almost 13 months old. I just bought a new milled Quickie, and guess what? The problem (in my eyes) of the milled Quickie's SLIC pin not fitting the Rope Runner still exists.

So I'm wondering how your Rope Runner is holding up with the slight modification that you made to it? I would be greatly encouraged to know that your Rope Runner has not suffered at all from the slight change you made to the size of the holes in the bottom SLIC pin location. I'm assuming that you also carefully drilled out the hole in the upper part of the "spine" of the Rope Runner, in addition to the side plates of the "Lever assembly".

Thanks in advance for any answers you can give me with regard to the long term viability of your modifications. I will really appreciate the feedback.

Tim
 
@theatertech87; These posts of yours are almost 13 months old. I just bought a new milled Quickie, and guess what? The problem (in my eyes) of the milled Quickie's SLIC pin not fitting the Rope Runner still exists.

So I'm wondering how your Rope Runner is holding up with the slight modification that you made to it? I would be greatly encouraged to know that your Rope Runner has not suffered at all from the slight change you made to the size of the holes in the bottom SLIC pin location. I'm assuming that you also carefully drilled out the hole in the upper part of the "spine" of the Rope Runner, in addition to the side plates of the "Lever assembly".

Thanks in advance for any answers you can give me with regard to the long term viability of your modifications. I will really appreciate the feedback.

Tim
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Meant to bring the runner home, take some pictures etc. Forgot all about it, then lost the thread to reply to... etc.

ANYWAYS after taking the runner out to take some pictures, realized that i never really used it that much, and had long ago removed the quickie for other uses. I just liked the hitch hiker better and that gets most of the use. The runner lives with my captains hook, and just doesn't get used much. That being said, the times I have used it, have been just like you'd expect from a runner, no extra movement or anything of that sort.

As to the holes I drilled, they were only in the spine, the quickie slic pin fit through the side plates without modification
 
@theatertech87; Thanks for the response. No worries about the time element, it is freezing outside and I have not been climbing much of late. I was just hoping to put something together that works during the down time.


As to the holes I drilled, they were only in the spine, the quickie slic pin fit through the side plates without modification

This quote of yours above represents a difference from the situation that I am currently experiencing. In my case, the Quickie SLIC pin will not fit through either the side plates or the spine. Which probably means they've increased the size of the Quickie SLIC pin to the point where one would have to drill what might be too much material out of the Runner side plates and spine, for comfort.

Thanks a lot for your response, and the details of your use of the Rope Runner currently. It is all a great help.

Tim
 
@Acerxharlowii; That is a really great question. I, being Mr. Everyman, would have thought that it would have been designed from the ground up to be compatible with the Rope Runner as a tending point. This is a question for TreeStuff.com, as they are the ones who hold the rights to produce the Rope Runner and the Quickie, if I am not mistaken.

Tim
 

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