Mysterious echo2511t issue

Mowerr

Branched out member
Location
Ny
So I finish work one day, lock it away in toolbox and I come back to work next morning and notice a big hole in the clutch cover.
Closer examination and I see one of the clutch springs is missing.
I'm baffled at how or why this happened, it still runs just fine. To me it doesn't look like the clutch is rubbing on the cover either but it must have to make such a circular hole like that...
I've just never seen this happen before.
I replaced the missing spring but I put it in there the opposite way that the other springs are on bc its easier than taking apart the sprocket.
Does anybody see any problem with me running the spring like that?
I got a new clutch cover on the way...
Any thoughts tips or info on this would be really appreciated thanks men.
 

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A little more context, this 2511t is pretty much stock except for west coast muffler and dogs. I'm running the 3/8 low pro sprocket. 10" Oregon bar and chain
 

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I suspect that for some reason, the missing spring broke. When it broke, the clutch pushed it outward and it rubbed the hole in the side of the cover.

I see no good reason the springs should not work in either direction, I suspect also that they are installed the other way around from the factory to keep them from coming out inadvertently
 
I suspect that for some reason, the missing spring broke. When it broke, the clutch pushed it outward and it rubbed the hole in the side of the cover.

I see no good reason the springs should not work in either direction, I suspect also that they are installed the other way around from the factory to keep them from coming out inadvertently
X2

I just had a starter recoil assembly blow up on me. Saw was running, pull cord snapped and the handle fell off. Never seen anything like it.
Taking it apart the clock spring hook pulled out and bent from its slot, the plastic pulley was torn up, prowl spring snapped and the prawls were melted.

I assume the spring broke and the prawls engaged or never disengaged. Torquing the spring pulling it out and bending it, some how the pulley rubbed etc..
broken parts, spinning components and plastics..
 
If I were you I'd pull off the other two springs and inspect for wear/thinning right where they contact/hook onto the clutch. I've often seen thinning/wear at that point on various equipment. The other two might be close to failure too. $ for another cover(?) At some point the clutch shoe holes are going to wear out too. Also having one fresh spring and two weaker fatigued springs could cause weird asymmetric forces in the clutch which could cause operational or durability issues. Any signs of premature (low rpm) clutch engagement? yet. Spring strength and hole/spring wear both contribute.
 
An impact driver and socket will spin the clutch off RIGHTY LOOSY ezpz. Grease the bearing.
I was told you shouldn't just wrench on that without tying off the pull cord and stopping the piston. Plus I tried just turning on it right looosey and it just spins and spins
 
I see some guys on you tube dont show anything about stopping the piston and only a couple talked about it...buckin Billy shows a video where he takes out the spark plug and just jams an old starter cord in the piston and ties off the saws pull cord to the handle the he puts the wrench on it.
He does saw that the pull cord in the piston might not be the right way to do it but thats how he does it and it worked
 
The impact works without having to do anything else. It's because of the speed and hammering of the driver. It's reverse thread if I remember right. A regular drill won't work as well as an impact
 
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This has happened loads of times to me over the years, (not sure if I got unlucky and got a weak batch) and if you dont notice in time its a ruined clutch cover (which arent cheap to replace) Yes the broken spring wears through the cover pretty quick and for sure I would replace all together. I keep plenty spare :) yep, no problem spinning off with a impact driver
 
Using stuffed rope get the piston about half way to tdc before you stuff the rope in so it doesn't work its way into the ports and get sheared off there when you apply torque to the clutch.

If you use an impact or normal wrench be cognisant of whether you're applying load to the pull start cord trying to suck the handle inside the housing - it could break.

If you get a piston stop that threads into the spark plug hole, don't let the crankshaft spin freely (for a fraction of a revolution) because the piston banging into the stop can crack or put a hole in the top of the piston. Ensure positive contact before you apply torque.
 
All methods work as discussed.
Impact will take it off most all the time.

They make piston stops, just a threaded plastic thing that screws into the sparkplug hole. (Don’t use an impact if doing this it can crack the piston).

Sting or spare starter cord in the spark plug hole also works just fine most of the time, but care needs to be taken. It can enter the ports if the piston is down and cause all kinds of problems. You don’t need much room so pull the starter cord or rotate the crank so there is minimal space to get it squished in there. Make sure your rotating the crank in the same manner so it closes on the cord and doesn’t open making the cord fall deeper into the cylinder
 

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