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Ginko before
Ginko after
Large dbh.
Before and after from similar point of view. Unfortunately I wasn't so good years back at before and afts so zoom or perspective may be misaligned. When taking before and after line up an object in a corner of the field of view and use same zoom. No zoom is easy to be precise. And mark your spot.
Photo today. Six or so seasons later.
Wow I had to edit. This is the first time I've studied these pics. Maybe it was only five seasons ago. I can't believe how good the reaction was compared to the soft hardwoods or even red oak. It actually appears that the extension slowed for years. The size and sail has only barely if even completely returned, but the diameters have five or so years growth. One theory is that reduction like this (or even lighter reduction or thinning) is pointless because it grows back. Yes it grows back but diameters are now bigger. And consider the fact that had the pruning not been done, the tree would have grown larger, not stood stagnant. I'm happy with the visible increase in taper. even after the reduction as extension was subordinated. I like that term I used to use years ago. I used to ask clients and about half liked the term. I think it has a place but reduction is simple and good for communication. Sorry just more speculation, but in the eyes of progress.
This was a very difficult one to reduce but It needed it. Or at least it is stronger and better off in a storm event. Difficult mostly because there are no natural elbows so the reduction cuts were heading types. Bad terminology I know. The point is I had to create a deviation in the natural straight flow of the form.
As you might see from the trunk pic, there are many issues with twisting and bending stems. This problem is compounded by large wounds that are minor for now but are close to the main crotch. Also adding to the problem is the multi stem issue. Not really bad but means that most stems are leaning.
This tree is made up of mostly uprights but some of them reaching or leaning.
Not horrible structure to begin with so not a heavy app. I think this was around 2007 or so and hasn't been done since. And doesn't necessarily need it again but could be improved further with a light thin/reduction. Remember that thinning done correctly means working near the outer canopy to reduce end weight, As defined by ISA. Thinning out is bad yes, but the 'out' is not proper terminology and somehow suggests removal of inner branches. Proper Thinning is 'thinning in' and is a relevant form of reduction. light reduction and often enough for a second app.
Anyway it's been years and I took no notes or mess pics. But I remember it well. Very difficult as branches were long and continuous without bends. This is another example of being forced to influence the beauty of the form. Just thinning and making small removal cuts on larger stems is not enough. And this nature can be somewhat restored on the second app. At this point I better put door knocking back in the toolbox if I want to see that second app. Better than a phone call.
So I made 100-200 end cuts to reduce overall size and sail and to improve taper. Hand saw and pole pruner. Lengths averaging 4 feet but several around 6-8 feet. Also many around 1-3 feet. Max green diameter cut around 2-2.5 inches. Maybe one or two around 3" as upper canopy removal/thin cuts. A very complex crown and so old that favouring stems was done to some degree but mostly a balanced dose throughout otherwise. The idea was to improve the taper of everything to some extent.
So one main reason I went less heavy was because of the straight growth habit. Like ash or hackberry. Contrast with oak or Willow or locust which give more options when reducing. I recently learned the hard way I could've reduced more on some hackberrys that broke in the ice. I thought they were stronger and also I didn't want to deviate from the natural form. Oops, shoulda reduced them in a civilized way but Mother Nature did it her way.
Also would like some feedback on ginkgo and compartmentalization ability as I have very little experience with this species. That's the second reason also to not reduce too heavy. I didn't want to put large wounds in the tree. And from looking at the old wounds I'd say it wasn't excellent at wound closure. But I do wonder if some trees handle wounds well even if they don't close over well. Many can go for decades with large open wounds. I suspect any species can do this if it has good vitality and resources.
I do remember thousands of stinky fermenting fruit on the ground. almost to the point of feeling sick. A big thing to consider when planting these. Planting the male trees is an option as the foliage is perhaps the most unique. Broadleaf softwood. But I don't have an opinion on whether this should be on urban tree lists?
You can see in the photo that I took today that it's reacted well and not shot up too much. Almost looks like it could go longer. Still though, being likely the largest in that town, it is an important tree to me, the client, and all the neighbours who get to see it daily. So I wouldn't call another application overkill I'd call it special treatment.
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really though I should read it 
