My Latest Contract Climbing Adventure.

Lots of great advice here, Tyler. Looks like your well adjusted already. When I started to climb regularly, I kinda learned backwards. The first guy I worked with had a 80' sign crane during which most of my climbing was learned. Two things mentioned in previous posts I like are this.
1 Doing crane work I gaff down the spar a couple of steps to finish the cut over my head. Helps ensure I
won't get tagged by the butt if it swings a bit.
2 I love the 036 (361) with the 24'' bar. Lightweight saw with plenty of ass in big wood.
Be safe. :D
 
Tim. I think the same thing about crane work. I believe the mindset is different for the guys using a crane service vs. Owner operators. The silver maple we did yesterday did not absolutely have to utilize a crane for removal, there were virtually no targets other then the house and small drop zones. Straight forward removal with ropes as far as I am concerned. It is the productivity afforded by the crane that changes the game. Would we have rented a crane for it.... no. But if you already have one sitting around, why would you not use it every chance you have to cut time out of your work day.
But there raises the issue. If we are chopping them down at double the rate we were before now can't we potentially run out of work twice as fast. It's a double edged bar.
The EAB has taken its toll on the mid west so there is a lot of work just in ash removals, but even that can't last forever.

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It is the beginning of day 2. I have been brainstorming a rigging bag, and spider leg system. Who has their set up streamlined so I can pick their brains? I'm leaning towards stabil braid right now but I would like to hear input from you guys with hundreds of trees in the bag. How does longevity vs. Knotability vs work load play out?

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The artist at work.

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Having a system that works flawlessly srt and ddrt is key. I really like the hitchiker for this, haven't done a crane job since I switched to the rope runner but it should be alright.
Rope management is important to keep the work flowing. I use a cheapo Hansen rope bag, tree stuff has them for like $15.
The saw is also pretty important. I strongly recommend having enough bar so you can make sure your cuts are complete while staying on the "safe side". I leave the top handle in the truck and use a hot 50cc with a 20" for almost all of the trees we do.
One last thing- when you are into the trunk wood, don't choke the limbs, I don't care how big they are, choke the trunk. Branch unions are really strong in alot of directions, but up isn't one of them.

How does that last statement fit with the idea of putting tree parts into compression for greater strength?
 
How does that last statement fit with the idea of putting tree parts into compression for greater strength?
If you were to be lifting large trunk wood by a limb, you would be reversing the tension/compression roles at the union. The union has grown to support the weight of a limb pulling mostly down, not being pulled up and may fail. I know of one instance where this happened and luckily no one was hurt but the logs did more or less destroy a house.
If you need to use the limb for balancing the pick then spider leg it but the main choker should be around the trunk wood.
 
So far, all the trunk wood has been lifted out with an endless sling, choaked around the whole thing. I can see how this might get hard to do on REALLY big wood, you would need a very long sling, that would then be quite heavy.

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I got to be a knuckle head for a while. It was pretty awesome. Very different from a regular stick crane. Bypass cuts that snap off really easy by scoping in with the jib angled down can be so smooth. Having fun still? Dumb question. Riding the hook never gets old
 

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