treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
Re: drop a 75\' tree in a 50\' LZ
yeah where is Holly? i miss him too.
yeah where is Holly? i miss him too.
drop a 75' tree in a 50' LZ
- Thread starter Daniel
- Start date
jim454
Participating member
- Location
- The land of Utopia
Re: drop a 75\' tree in a 50\' LZ
I think he's at the tree house, they just love him over there.
I think he's at the tree house, they just love him over there.
robinia
Participating member
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Re: drop a 75\' tree in a 50\' LZ
[ QUOTE ]
So...is that a tear shed for Holly not being around? Are you missing him that much?
[/ QUOTE ]
No.
[ QUOTE ]
So...is that a tear shed for Holly not being around? Are you missing him that much?
[/ QUOTE ]
No.
easyphloem
Branched out member
- Location
- Louisville, KY
Re: drop a 75\' tree in a 50\' LZ
[ QUOTE ]
So...is that a tear shed for Holly not being around? Are you missing him that much?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, Tom. I do miss him being around. This place is incredibly boring sometimes.
I'm thinking of banishing myself from TB for a while. I have been trying to pick a fight with Daniel for no good reason, other than being bored. I think that is a sign that I am on the wrong track.
Sayonara for now.
SZ
[ QUOTE ]
So...is that a tear shed for Holly not being around? Are you missing him that much?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, Tom. I do miss him being around. This place is incredibly boring sometimes.
I'm thinking of banishing myself from TB for a while. I have been trying to pick a fight with Daniel for no good reason, other than being bored. I think that is a sign that I am on the wrong track.
Sayonara for now.
SZ
robinia
Participating member
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Re: drop a 75\' tree in a 50\' LZ
There has to be a happy medium, right? I think this place can be both highly educational and entertaining within being abusive, crass, and mean-spirited.
EZ: have you made friends with family tree or something? Or just need a new sparring partner?
Your posts are often hilarious and occasionally informative. I hope you stick around.
and don't blame us 'cuz you're in a slump: falling short on the "avatar king" title...
There has to be a happy medium, right? I think this place can be both highly educational and entertaining within being abusive, crass, and mean-spirited.
EZ: have you made friends with family tree or something? Or just need a new sparring partner?
Your posts are often hilarious and occasionally informative. I hope you stick around.
and don't blame us 'cuz you're in a slump: falling short on the "avatar king" title...
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
It can happen and that's reason enough not to do it. Just because it hasn't happened to you yet doesn't mean it won't.
[/ QUOTE ]
Doenst this apply to everything that we do? I havent fallen from a tree yet, but just cause it can happen does this mean that I need to stop climbing?
IMO. Arborists are risk managers. Everything we do is risky. Hell we climb trees. We mitigate those risks with different techniques that we use. We tie in twice when running a chain saw (so what if both ropes are on top of each other
) so we dont cut ourselves out of the trees, but it still happens. We train where to stand and how to feed a chipper, but we still send people through chippers.
We talk and train about electrical hazards, but every month someone gets electricuted.
Read TCI every month. See how hazardous our job is. If you take away all of the "what ifs" the uncertainty of our job, you wouldnt get anything done. There is always something that can and will happen, no matter how you do the job. Thats why we tie in twice, train with the chipper and electric, so we can better mediate the hazards, to an acceptable level, that each of us are comfortable with. God willing we will all return home to our families EVERY day.
I knew a guy once 7 or 8 years ago who used this technique. He used it on the wrong tree in the wrong conditions. He is no longer with us (it had nothing to do with Barber chair, or kick back the wind simply blew the tree back on him and the bucket). I wound up taking the rest of his tree down two weeks later. The only reason he did it was to get that 60 foot top in a small space. I have said it several times (IMO) this is not an acceptable reason. You have to be very certain that what you are attempting is going to work. And if you are not comfortable with it then DONT do it.
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
It can happen and that's reason enough not to do it. Just because it hasn't happened to you yet doesn't mean it won't.
[/ QUOTE ]
Doenst this apply to everything that we do? I havent fallen from a tree yet, but just cause it can happen does this mean that I need to stop climbing?
IMO. Arborists are risk managers. Everything we do is risky. Hell we climb trees. We mitigate those risks with different techniques that we use. We tie in twice when running a chain saw (so what if both ropes are on top of each other
I knew a guy once 7 or 8 years ago who used this technique. He used it on the wrong tree in the wrong conditions. He is no longer with us (it had nothing to do with Barber chair, or kick back the wind simply blew the tree back on him and the bucket). I wound up taking the rest of his tree down two weeks later. The only reason he did it was to get that 60 foot top in a small space. I have said it several times (IMO) this is not an acceptable reason. You have to be very certain that what you are attempting is going to work. And if you are not comfortable with it then DONT do it.
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
[quote
Doenst this apply to everything that we do? I havent fallen from a tree yet, but just cause it can happen does this mean that I need to stop climbing?
IMO. Arborists are risk managers. Everything we do is risky. Hell we climb trees. We mitigate those risks with different techniques that we use.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ya... exactly what we do..
Surprised nobody has talked about what are the risks to falling big tops, that need to be managed to an acceptable level.. No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
[quote
Doenst this apply to everything that we do? I havent fallen from a tree yet, but just cause it can happen does this mean that I need to stop climbing?
IMO. Arborists are risk managers. Everything we do is risky. Hell we climb trees. We mitigate those risks with different techniques that we use.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ya... exactly what we do..
Surprised nobody has talked about what are the risks to falling big tops, that need to be managed to an acceptable level.. No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
robinia
Participating member
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
[ QUOTE ]
Arborists are risk managers. Everything we do is risky.
If you take away all of the "what ifs" the uncertainty of our job, you wouldnt get anything done.
There is always something that can and will happen, no matter how you do the job.
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know if you realize this is exactly the point. Most of the things in our job are hazardous to some degree - trees can fail, equipment can fail, operator error, etc. So why willingly CHOOSE to do something that is inherently more dangerous than all the other alternatives?!? That is not risk managing, it's risk embrassing.
[ QUOTE ]
Surprised nobody has talked about what are the risks to falling big tops, that need to be managed to an acceptable level.. No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
[/ QUOTE ]
Could you clarify what you are saying here, so that it can be discussed?
[ QUOTE ]
Arborists are risk managers. Everything we do is risky.
If you take away all of the "what ifs" the uncertainty of our job, you wouldnt get anything done.
There is always something that can and will happen, no matter how you do the job.
[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know if you realize this is exactly the point. Most of the things in our job are hazardous to some degree - trees can fail, equipment can fail, operator error, etc. So why willingly CHOOSE to do something that is inherently more dangerous than all the other alternatives?!? That is not risk managing, it's risk embrassing.
[ QUOTE ]
Surprised nobody has talked about what are the risks to falling big tops, that need to be managed to an acceptable level.. No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
[/ QUOTE ]
Could you clarify what you are saying here, so that it can be discussed?
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
Dan,
They have talked about the risks, barber chair, kick back, hinge peal, and the like. Have you been reading this thread? Or just trying to pick fights. The question is how are you managing those risks. I dont think you have answered that yet. I dont think this should be used to the extent that you use it. But thats not my problem. Ive taken a bit of heat from this, because people think I am trying to defend you... I AM NOT.
Dan,
They have talked about the risks, barber chair, kick back, hinge peal, and the like. Have you been reading this thread? Or just trying to pick fights. The question is how are you managing those risks. I dont think you have answered that yet. I dont think this should be used to the extent that you use it. But thats not my problem. Ive taken a bit of heat from this, because people think I am trying to defend you... I AM NOT.
KentuckySawyer
Participating member
- Location
- Louisville
Tree-tarded
[ QUOTE ]
No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
[/ QUOTE ]
Nobody said it can't be done. Just that its a bad idea.
[ QUOTE ]
No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
[/ QUOTE ]
Nobody said it can't be done. Just that its a bad idea.
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
Re: drop a 75\' tree in a 50\' LZ
[ QUOTE ]
[quote
So...is that a tear shed for Holly not being around? Are you missing him that much?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes!
[/ QUOTE ]
X2
I caught more crap from him than anyone here but dammit I still miss him. He's A LOT better at everything arborculture than I am and his knowledge (although at times given out in rations between insults) will be missed here.
Danny boy. Stay safe and keep it real hommie. I really hope that none of us find out how right we are and you never find out how wrong you are
[ QUOTE ]
[quote
So...is that a tear shed for Holly not being around? Are you missing him that much?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes!
[/ QUOTE ]
X2
I caught more crap from him than anyone here but dammit I still miss him. He's A LOT better at everything arborculture than I am and his knowledge (although at times given out in rations between insults) will be missed here.
Danny boy. Stay safe and keep it real hommie. I really hope that none of us find out how right we are and you never find out how wrong you are
Crazy_Jimmy
Participating member
- Location
- Texas
Re: Tree-tarded
when we do something really stupid on the jobs we refer to ourselves as arbor morons.Its usually someone gettin in a hurry or a greeny who bites off more than he can chew.I was thinking of putting together and arbor morons training series.That way when guys are in doubt that could check it out and see if there about to join the session.Im sure dropping a top like this can be done and probably has- but more times than not your probably gonna end up in the arbor morons series or at least I would by doing this.
when we do something really stupid on the jobs we refer to ourselves as arbor morons.Its usually someone gettin in a hurry or a greeny who bites off more than he can chew.I was thinking of putting together and arbor morons training series.That way when guys are in doubt that could check it out and see if there about to join the session.Im sure dropping a top like this can be done and probably has- but more times than not your probably gonna end up in the arbor morons series or at least I would by doing this.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
Re: Tree-tarded
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
[/ QUOTE ]
Nobody said it can't be done. Just that its a bad idea.
[/ QUOTE ]
Exactly. Not hard but in most cases pointlessly risky. I'm a lot more inclined to climb on up and take two pieces.
...and if I had a defect in the trunk to work around, I wouldn't want it between me and the ground.
And I definitely miss Holly, He pissed me off a lot but so does my sister. I miss Masterblaster for the same reason. Both are serious tree men, just a bit on the edgy side, Riggs is no different.
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
No one seems interested in how.. they seem to busy saying it can't be done...
[/ QUOTE ]
Nobody said it can't be done. Just that its a bad idea.
[/ QUOTE ]
Exactly. Not hard but in most cases pointlessly risky. I'm a lot more inclined to climb on up and take two pieces.
...and if I had a defect in the trunk to work around, I wouldn't want it between me and the ground.
And I definitely miss Holly, He pissed me off a lot but so does my sister. I miss Masterblaster for the same reason. Both are serious tree men, just a bit on the edgy side, Riggs is no different.
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
[ QUOTE ]
Dan,
They have talked about the risks, barber chair, kick back, hinge peal, and the like. Have you been reading this thread? Or just trying to pick fights. The question is how are you managing those risks. I dont think you have answered that yet. I dont think this should be used to the extent that you use it. But thats not my problem. Ive taken a bit of heat from this, because people think I am trying to defend you... I AM NOT.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have read this entire thread carefully... This is the first time that someone has asked how to manage those risks..
There is a lot to think about here..
Barber chair is avoided by using a plunge cut, with a back release.. I also like to plunge if there is any defect in the base, so that the hinge can be made relatively thin, so that it breaks very easily after the face closes. If the hinge is too wide it, and holds when the face closes, as the climber continues to cut, until until the hinge is small enough and there is enough force to break the hinge. That is a bad scenario as this could put a lot of force on the defect at the base of the tree, with the top of the tree acting as a giant lever pulling on the base. So presetting the hinge is mandatory in many cases.. also I keep stump shot to a max of 1" in most cases for the same reason.. in certain species, stump shot will require a lot more pull force to get the piece moving, which loads the base. The plunge cut allows the faller to precisely set the height of the backcut...
In cases where I used a regular backcut, there was no pull until the hinge was exactly where I wanted it.. It takes some experience to know just how much cutting to do in either case (plunge or standard), and you have to know your different species and how the hinge acts. If you have a species that will rip at the corners you need to undercut the corners.
So you have to be able to plunge from the saddle, not easy when you first start trying, especially if not tied in above the cut.. standing on the hooks on a lanyard makes it difficult to plunge, so for example, on that first tulip, I plunged from both sides with a 16" bar, which is evident in the still pics of the stump... That is a lot easier than trying to plunge with a 20-24" bar..
The other thing that helps with a plunge is it allows the climber to finish the cut from a comfortable position on the back side of the spar... so the but can't come back on him.. which is just added security. THIS SHOULD NOT happen if a good cut is made..
Notch placement and width are important to control the piece to get it to land flat, when cutting low enough so that the but could bounce back if the piece over rotates and tips come down early. I AM OK with cutting a notch less than 1/3 depth, which can have some advantages...
Wide notch no good unless you want the tips down first as used on that pine. Tips came down first protecting the sidewalk.. Also no need for a humboldt unless the piece is going to catch another tree on the way down.. In which case its probably better to find another method. Top can be thrown forward by cutting the notch narrow enough so that the top is still moving forward more than downward at the release. This is often good, as the top will still be far enough forward so that even if the tips over-rotate and come down a little early and throw the butt back, it will still land well in front of the tree.
Last thing would be reliable control of pull line.. The pull line needs to be set up right and there needs to be good communication and trust with the ground crew. That pull has to be reliabe and really important that they don't pull early.. So you need to trust the ground crew and have the proper equipment to do the pulling.
That is all that comes to mind right now..
[ QUOTE ]
Dan,
They have talked about the risks, barber chair, kick back, hinge peal, and the like. Have you been reading this thread? Or just trying to pick fights. The question is how are you managing those risks. I dont think you have answered that yet. I dont think this should be used to the extent that you use it. But thats not my problem. Ive taken a bit of heat from this, because people think I am trying to defend you... I AM NOT.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have read this entire thread carefully... This is the first time that someone has asked how to manage those risks..
There is a lot to think about here..
Barber chair is avoided by using a plunge cut, with a back release.. I also like to plunge if there is any defect in the base, so that the hinge can be made relatively thin, so that it breaks very easily after the face closes. If the hinge is too wide it, and holds when the face closes, as the climber continues to cut, until until the hinge is small enough and there is enough force to break the hinge. That is a bad scenario as this could put a lot of force on the defect at the base of the tree, with the top of the tree acting as a giant lever pulling on the base. So presetting the hinge is mandatory in many cases.. also I keep stump shot to a max of 1" in most cases for the same reason.. in certain species, stump shot will require a lot more pull force to get the piece moving, which loads the base. The plunge cut allows the faller to precisely set the height of the backcut...
In cases where I used a regular backcut, there was no pull until the hinge was exactly where I wanted it.. It takes some experience to know just how much cutting to do in either case (plunge or standard), and you have to know your different species and how the hinge acts. If you have a species that will rip at the corners you need to undercut the corners.
So you have to be able to plunge from the saddle, not easy when you first start trying, especially if not tied in above the cut.. standing on the hooks on a lanyard makes it difficult to plunge, so for example, on that first tulip, I plunged from both sides with a 16" bar, which is evident in the still pics of the stump... That is a lot easier than trying to plunge with a 20-24" bar..
The other thing that helps with a plunge is it allows the climber to finish the cut from a comfortable position on the back side of the spar... so the but can't come back on him.. which is just added security. THIS SHOULD NOT happen if a good cut is made..
Notch placement and width are important to control the piece to get it to land flat, when cutting low enough so that the but could bounce back if the piece over rotates and tips come down early. I AM OK with cutting a notch less than 1/3 depth, which can have some advantages...
Wide notch no good unless you want the tips down first as used on that pine. Tips came down first protecting the sidewalk.. Also no need for a humboldt unless the piece is going to catch another tree on the way down.. In which case its probably better to find another method. Top can be thrown forward by cutting the notch narrow enough so that the top is still moving forward more than downward at the release. This is often good, as the top will still be far enough forward so that even if the tips over-rotate and come down a little early and throw the butt back, it will still land well in front of the tree.
Last thing would be reliable control of pull line.. The pull line needs to be set up right and there needs to be good communication and trust with the ground crew. That pull has to be reliabe and really important that they don't pull early.. So you need to trust the ground crew and have the proper equipment to do the pulling.
That is all that comes to mind right now..
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
So was Holly kicked off tree buzz? thats what I'm gathering here. I think thats a real loss. beyond his demeanor he shared some very valuable bits of knowledge that I am very thankful for.
So was Holly kicked off tree buzz? thats what I'm gathering here. I think thats a real loss. beyond his demeanor he shared some very valuable bits of knowledge that I am very thankful for.
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Dan,
They have talked about the risks, barber chair, kick back, hinge peal, and the like. Have you been reading this thread? Or just trying to pick fights. The question is how are you managing those risks. I dont think you have answered that yet. I dont think this should be used to the extent that you use it. But thats not my problem. Ive taken a bit of heat from this, because people think I am trying to defend you... I AM NOT.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have read this entire thread carefully... This is the first time that someone has asked how to manage those risks..
There is a lot to think about here..
Barber chair is avoided by using a plunge cut, with a back release.. I also like to plunge if there is any defect in the base, so that the hinge can be made relatively thin, so that it breaks very easily after the face closes. If the hinge is too wide it, and holds when the face closes, as the climber continues to cut, until until the hinge is small enough and there is enough force to break the hinge. That is a bad scenario as this could put a lot of force on the defect at the base of the tree, with the top of the tree acting as a giant lever pulling on the base. So presetting the hinge is mandatory in many cases.. also I keep stump shot to a max of 1" in most cases for the same reason.. in certain species, stump shot will require a lot more pull force to get the piece moving, which loads the base. The plunge cut allows the faller to precisely set the height of the backcut...
In cases where I used a regular backcut, there was no pull until the hinge was exactly where I wanted it.. It takes some experience to know just how much cutting to do in either case (plunge or standard), and you have to know your different species and how the hinge acts. If you have a species that will rip at the corners you need to undercut the corners.
So you have to be able to plunge from the saddle, not easy when you first start trying, especially if not tied in above the cut.. standing on the hooks on a lanyard makes it difficult to plunge, so for example, on that first tulip, I plunged from both sides with a 16" bar, which is evident in the still pics of the stump... That is a lot easier than trying to plunge with a 20-24" bar..
The other thing that helps with a plunge is it allows the climber to finish the cut from a comfortable position on the back side of the spar... so the but can't come back on him.. which is just added security. THIS SHOULD NOT happen if a good cut is made..
Notch placement and width are important to control the piece to get it to land flat, when cutting low enough so that the but could bounce back if the piece over rotates and tips come down early. I AM OK with cutting a notch less than 1/3 depth, which can have some advantages...
Wide notch no good unless you want the tips down first as used on that pine. Tips came down first protecting the sidewalk.. Also no need for a humboldt unless the piece is going to catch another tree on the way down.. In which case its probably better to find another method. Top can be thrown forward by cutting the notch narrow enough so that the top is still moving forward more than downward at the release. This is often good, as the top will still be far enough forward so that even if the tips over-rotate and come down a little early and throw the butt back, it will still land well in front of the tree.
Last thing would be reliable control of pull line.. The pull line needs to be set up right and there needs to be good communication and trust with the ground crew. That pull has to be reliabe and really important that they don't pull early.. So you need to trust the ground crew and have the proper equipment to do the pulling.
That is all that comes to mind right now..
[/ QUOTE ]
Or you could climb a littler higher, have half the problems and risk and get the job done 5 min later than your original plan without having two drops of pee in your pants.
At least this is what I'm gathering from it all big guy
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Dan,
They have talked about the risks, barber chair, kick back, hinge peal, and the like. Have you been reading this thread? Or just trying to pick fights. The question is how are you managing those risks. I dont think you have answered that yet. I dont think this should be used to the extent that you use it. But thats not my problem. Ive taken a bit of heat from this, because people think I am trying to defend you... I AM NOT.
[/ QUOTE ]
I have read this entire thread carefully... This is the first time that someone has asked how to manage those risks..
There is a lot to think about here..
Barber chair is avoided by using a plunge cut, with a back release.. I also like to plunge if there is any defect in the base, so that the hinge can be made relatively thin, so that it breaks very easily after the face closes. If the hinge is too wide it, and holds when the face closes, as the climber continues to cut, until until the hinge is small enough and there is enough force to break the hinge. That is a bad scenario as this could put a lot of force on the defect at the base of the tree, with the top of the tree acting as a giant lever pulling on the base. So presetting the hinge is mandatory in many cases.. also I keep stump shot to a max of 1" in most cases for the same reason.. in certain species, stump shot will require a lot more pull force to get the piece moving, which loads the base. The plunge cut allows the faller to precisely set the height of the backcut...
In cases where I used a regular backcut, there was no pull until the hinge was exactly where I wanted it.. It takes some experience to know just how much cutting to do in either case (plunge or standard), and you have to know your different species and how the hinge acts. If you have a species that will rip at the corners you need to undercut the corners.
So you have to be able to plunge from the saddle, not easy when you first start trying, especially if not tied in above the cut.. standing on the hooks on a lanyard makes it difficult to plunge, so for example, on that first tulip, I plunged from both sides with a 16" bar, which is evident in the still pics of the stump... That is a lot easier than trying to plunge with a 20-24" bar..
The other thing that helps with a plunge is it allows the climber to finish the cut from a comfortable position on the back side of the spar... so the but can't come back on him.. which is just added security. THIS SHOULD NOT happen if a good cut is made..
Notch placement and width are important to control the piece to get it to land flat, when cutting low enough so that the but could bounce back if the piece over rotates and tips come down early. I AM OK with cutting a notch less than 1/3 depth, which can have some advantages...
Wide notch no good unless you want the tips down first as used on that pine. Tips came down first protecting the sidewalk.. Also no need for a humboldt unless the piece is going to catch another tree on the way down.. In which case its probably better to find another method. Top can be thrown forward by cutting the notch narrow enough so that the top is still moving forward more than downward at the release. This is often good, as the top will still be far enough forward so that even if the tips over-rotate and come down a little early and throw the butt back, it will still land well in front of the tree.
Last thing would be reliable control of pull line.. The pull line needs to be set up right and there needs to be good communication and trust with the ground crew. That pull has to be reliabe and really important that they don't pull early.. So you need to trust the ground crew and have the proper equipment to do the pulling.
That is all that comes to mind right now..
[/ QUOTE ]
Or you could climb a littler higher, have half the problems and risk and get the job done 5 min later than your original plan without having two drops of pee in your pants.
At least this is what I'm gathering from it all big guy
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
Stay in your box bro..
Its all good.. like riggs said.. this aint brain surgery..
Stay in your box bro..
Its all good.. like riggs said.. this aint brain surgery..
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
You're a funny guy.
You instantly think that it's everyone else that doesn't understand instead of thinking that maybe you are doing a bad job at explaining.
In fact, you have almost this entire collection of knowledgable Arborist second guessing your tactics but WE are the ones that are "thinking inside the box"
Maybe you should try re explaining yourself a bit better instead of taking the tact of being a doucher for 9 pages
If "the box" consist of half of these guys that disagree with you then I'll happily stay put. I've alway been a fan of a good sausage party.
You're a funny guy.
You instantly think that it's everyone else that doesn't understand instead of thinking that maybe you are doing a bad job at explaining.
In fact, you have almost this entire collection of knowledgable Arborist second guessing your tactics but WE are the ones that are "thinking inside the box"
Maybe you should try re explaining yourself a bit better instead of taking the tact of being a doucher for 9 pages
If "the box" consist of half of these guys that disagree with you then I'll happily stay put. I've alway been a fan of a good sausage party.
jim454
Participating member
- Location
- The land of Utopia
Re: \"why must I always explain\" Van Morrison
[ QUOTE ]
So was Holly kicked off tree buzz? thats what I'm gathering here. I think thats a real loss. beyond his demeanor he shared some very valuable bits of knowledge that I am very thankful for.
[/ QUOTE ]
Holly E-Mailed me.
Think of it as solitary confinement. He will most likely be back but he has to do his time.
I don't know if you noticed but he can be a snarly little bugger at times...
[ QUOTE ]
So was Holly kicked off tree buzz? thats what I'm gathering here. I think thats a real loss. beyond his demeanor he shared some very valuable bits of knowledge that I am very thankful for.
[/ QUOTE ]
Holly E-Mailed me.
Think of it as solitary confinement. He will most likely be back but he has to do his time.
I don't know if you noticed but he can be a snarly little bugger at times...
