Bulldog OAR Lanyard Adjuster

Gordon, you would have to send them out and have the threads machined in with an EDM machine. Very costly and the threads would not hold up anyway. There might be other options but I will have to roll them around in my head awhile. If any of them make sense I will share them.
 
Gordon the hank of 11mm PMI classic is on its way in its Edelrid bshould have it ThuThursday oldour done with it hopefully you'll be ready to sell the adjusters;) and we can work on shipping it all at once. Post office says you should have it on thursday.
 
Paul the screw would have to be no longer than the width of the plate. I think a two part glue will be the best solution. The spring clip is tough to remove even with tools.

Thanks ML, I am making progress and have found that the new anvils I received to day will work to rivet the solid pins.
 
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Looking forward to my new BOAR adjuster (Bulldog OAR) in a few days. Lotsa rough and tumble in such a small package- what do you guys think?
 
Gordon. Shame its not a midline capable device. You could you make it modular - so buy 2 or 3 three of these - two 'stacked' would become essentially a BDBC... you can use them in combo, or on their own for a lanyard, adjustable redirect, whatever.

I'm going off on one - sorry.
 
It has potential I think. Lanyard adjuster seems the best bet. There are so many creative minds here when it comes to using a rope or a device or combination of the two (or creating a Wiki). I look forward to that interaction. I did try ganging the two with a tether, but I like the BDB better for that use. I have played with a hitch, both above and below it also with mixed results. I have long been interested in a double sided device that would allow the climber to alternate steps with a pantin on both feet. ( as Johnny as in fact demonstrated), but my thought was to have a double sided DdRT with friction saver above, so I plan to experiment with the two adjusters linked together in opposition at the bottom of the spine, and see if an isolated line will allow ascent this way.
 
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I would be concerned about a double sided DdRT running through an FS would have a small section of rope running back and forwards through the FS with each step accelerating local wear in the middle of the rope. But you're right - there has to be a better way to do it :)
 
Video forthcoming. I did get to try out my adjuster today. It held okay with 11mm htp, didn't like 11mm kernmaster at all when I tried it, and actually worked best with 12mm htp. (I don't have any kmiii yet.) I didn't want to cut the rear splice from my escalator lanyard, so I'll have to wait to share on that.

11mm htp would creep if I pushed hard enough against my lanyard point as if I was spiked in and pushing a chunk.

Kernmaster forgot it was supposed to stay put at all.

12mm htp was not very smooth to pull slack, but locked off without slipping, and would still disengage for a controlled descent once I got a good feel for hand positioning.

I found that two fingers on the top piece and two on the bottom piece gave the most control as I could manipulate the friction from two points simultaneously.

I will video soon, just need a little free time.
 
I feel like I have missed the revolution here. Is there still time for me to jump on board. I really like this design, what makes it so picky on rope that kinda un nerves me.
 
Magnum783 said:
I feel like I have missed the revolution here. Is there still time for me to jump on board. I really like this design, what makes it so picky on rope that kinda un nerves me.
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I think most mechanicals sort of have their preference for a particular line. I know my Grillon wouldn't work with just anything. And the grooving process or breaking in period will probably be a little longer with a lanyard adjuster because it's not normally getting full body weight.
 
Gordon, the way you have designed the "triangles" and how they interact with one another is quite impressive. I spent some time at the end of the day really observing how it all works. Very cool.
 
Thanks Mike, The bottom of the top arm is shaped to match the angle of the top edge of the bottom arm, when the arms are tending slack. And the curve works to interact with the top arm when weighted. An interesting feature of the OAR design is that with enough weight the bottom arm will act as the release, and the top arm will act as the partial friction brake.
 
I noticed that as well. I have already found several ways to work the release. You can almost even squeeze the side plate together a certain way and it will release. Quite diverse. If I remember correctly, the bottom of the top triangle side plate, where it comes to a point interacts so well with the bottom flat side plate and moves the adjuster into a perfect position to release friction. Again, quite impressive. Can't wait to get out of these pines and get some more time on it. Off to work
 
You can grasp the whole device in your fist and pull down on the top arm with your thumb. Alternately, if there is not too much weight on the device, and the arms are not apart, you can grasp the whole device in your fist and rotate the device to straighten the path of the rope in order too cause it to modulate the release.
Moving forward, I plan to use my rivet tool to rivet the spring clip side of the spine after the spring clip is installed, rather than using JB Weld to secure the spring clip.
 
surveyor said:
...Moving forward, I plan to use my rivet tool to rivet the spring clip side of the spine after the spring clip is installed, rather than using JB Weld to secure the spring clip.
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Excellent choice!! That looks like a great tool, Gordon, nice job!
 
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