2016 srtwp redirects

@moss would an eye to eye made of bungee help? My thought being that the eyes are tight and the length is just enough to go over the knot area. It would act like a spring clip of sorts to ensure nothing fell out but I wouldn't imagine it hinder the deliberate pulled release much.
 
Hey guys, here's what I've been working with; basically just a small whoopie sling with the quickie and a carabiner. This splicing job is new, previously I have been using a chain reactor and adjusting the length by clipping into different links in the chain. It works as a ground retrievable and in-tree retrievable redirect, though to be honest I still use natural redirects >75% of the time.

Sorry for the lame, non-tree demonstration shot but today is my day off...IMG_0706.webp
IMG_0705.webp
 
I have played a bit in the shop with a wood fiddlestick and really like how simple and effective they are. I am planning to make several this weekend out of kiln dried hard maple that has been laying around the shop for a decade+. Moss, what are the dimensions you have used on yours if I may ask?
 
oldoakman said:
I have played a bit in the shop with a wood fiddlestick and really like how simple and effective they are. I am planning to make several this weekend out of kiln dried hard maple that has been laying around the shop for a decade+. Moss, what are the dimensions you have used on yours if I may ask?
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So far I like the dimensions of the fir fiddlestick (bottom), it takes a harder pull to get it out.

The length of both sticks are 8", the depth front-to-back is a little under .75" with a slight taper to the narrow end.

For the mahogany version the wide end is 1', the narrow end is .75"

The fir version is 1.25" on the wide end and .75" on the narrow end.

26585660900_14a8e2e90e_z.jpg
 
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Heads up on the hitch you try with the stick, I believe this midline hitch is more secure than the one used in canyoneering, I've shown the steps to tie it here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/naturejournal/albums/72157666838293520

So far I've only tested this in situations where if it failed there is another redirect within a few feet. I think that's a wise approach ;-) In three climbing tests I've had zero problems with the stick moving, hitch stayed tight. Like anything new, tie and re-tie it a bunch of times on the ground before trying it at height. You'll find there is some finesse to snugging it up tight.

Caution on pulling out the stick, if you set it right (tight) it will come back at you like a missile when it releases. If you're kung-fu good at hand deflections in front of your face all good, otherwise it's smart to redirect/deflect the release cord around something in the tree or on the ground.

You should never attach the release cord to your harness as you're climbing for obvious (I hope) reasons. The release cord should always hang free. If needed, redirect the release cord away from work areas. This technique could be useful in some situations but is no replacement for all the excellent safe redirect configurations out there. Be smart, use it wisely.

If anyone's wondering why I jumped all over this, I've been experimenting with and climbing releasable anchors for several years. I was very ready to see the fiddlestick and leverage my previous experience with releasables to further evolve the technique.

This technique has been certified as "Not bad and I guess that's good (experimental only)".
-AJ
 
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Thanks AJ. As I said, it seems like something I can use especially on these low wide Live Oaks around here where you need a million redirects to get all around the canopy. I am actually going to make a few out of Live Oak as well. Will take my time and be careful.
 
oldoakman said:
I'm doing one now that is about 30-35 feet tall and 75 feet wide. Here is a photo of one I did last summer.
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Hey, oldoakman! Thanks so much for posting that photo! Much appreciated.

If it is not too much trouble, and the owner's of the Live Oak that you are currently climbing do not object, I was wondering if you could take a photo of it from far enough back to show the entire spread of the tree, from bottom to top.

I know that is asking for a lot, so it's ok if you can't. Thanks for your time, and again for the original image.

Tim
 
moss said:
Did someone say live oaks? Redirect heaven

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Hey, moss! Is that your rope in that Live Oak? Were you on a trip down south when you climbed it, if so? I had the impression that the Live Oaks were confined to the warmer southern parts of the country. I need to check one of my field guides, now.

If that was your rope, just how much of a blast was it, redirecting all around the crown?

Tim
 
It would be neat to have fiddlesticks made from all different species, I'm thinking elm, cypress, spruce, beech, dogwood, ebony etc. Maybe even a section of bamboo.
It is also interesting that your preferred dimension (.75 to 1.25) closely matches what is know as the "golden ratio"
 
So not to take away from the fiddlesticks. I have a fs. Ring on one end and a new petzl pulley/biner on the other. What's the best midline set up for this as a redirect. Also can it be rigged retrieveable. I've been girthing a limb with the cordage through the ring and the biner placed back on after its thread through the ring. Works in a snap but isn't the best set up. Also considered a bight of my line through the ring and the biner as a lock off but thinking my weight may pull the night away from the ring. I've looked but can find info on this set up for midline installation.
 
Steve Connally said:
So not to take away from the fiddlesticks. I have a fs. Ring on one end and a new petzl pulley/biner on the other. What's the best midline set up for this as a redirect. Also can it be rigged retrieveable. I've been girthing a limb with the cordage through the ring and the biner placed back on after its thread through the ring. Works in a snap but isn't the best set up. Also considered a bight of my line through the ring and the biner as a lock off but thinking my weight may pull the night away from the ring. I've looked but can find info on this set up for midline installation.
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Put the biner on the line above your Runner.

Pass the ring over the union, and grab a bight between the biner and the Runner and pass it through the ring.

Spike the bight against the ring with a biner on the bitter end of your climb line.

To retrieve, pull down on the tail to open the bight up until it gets to you. Take the biner out of the bight and pull the bight out of the ring (all done from a remote distance, of course). Once the bight comes out of the ring, it should flip out of the union and the redirect will slide down to you.
 
Got it. There was the issue I wasn't seeing. I need to add an additional biner to the equation. I was spiking the line with the biner on the ring cordage. It just wasn't loading in a way that I felt kept things nice and snug. Thanks so much!
 
I guess that's a good reason to climb with the spliced eye end as my tail not my tip. When it is my tip I never use the spliced eye but to pull the line into the canopy.
 
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