I like it, it's smooth, it's got it's place, but for me that place is much more niche than you would think compared to a regular friction saver. I find myself over and over grabbing my fimble saver in it's place
Just to note that the slick pin for tending point also had those detents in it and will come apart in a similar ish fashion. The tending point however is not reversible
I can't comment on the Hobbs or the stein as I've never used one.
The rope jack is great for longer pulls/lifts than you can get with a set of 4's/fiddle blocks/etc at the expense of being slower and jerkier. Also takes a bit of a brain to take it off while it's loaded, not much of one once...
Continuing to use this fantastic piece of gear, I've got another quality of life pipe dream request.
Can the scene backup strap be made to be easily removable? Slick pin style? I like to store textiles separate from gas powered stuff since most of my saws leak in some fashion, but I can't do...
So just day dreaming about other options... There is a video a saw shop posted of their saw testing rig that i'll be darned if I can find, where they use a hyrdaulic pump to build pressure through a flow control and shear fluid to increase the load on the saw to simulate a cut. Kind of like a...
I'm always curious about other ideas, better or not, personally I wasn't fond of the rigging wrench, didn't like that it needed to rotate in the tree to take the load.
Also didn't find the need to lift and add friction, I'm either lifting big with a grcs, or using a triple thimble for aerial...
Maybe just a thicker piece of aluminum with a hole drilled across it. Or a piece of aluminum tubing welded to the tear drop, or that brass spacer with something brazed onto it.
I understand the excitement of casting, got to do some in shop class, but maybe not quite that involved a solution is...
I too think it needs to be a bit deeper, found a couple instances where it would fit around a top, but there wasn't enough space for the lever action to do it's thing. Video to come (maybe tonight)
I also think the tear drop should be rotated 90 degrees with a slightly bigger hole, that way you...
Bandit 1290 and 1890 with 8000 and 9700 hours respectively which should be the oldest chippers still in the fleet
so if you stick decals in the upper half of the indeed they should last a long time. Also most of our chippers have warnings on the outside from the factory
I'll wander around the yard and see what I can find for high hours chippers and see how the paints held up. I know none of them off them have been repainted in the feed pan in the 9 years I've been at the company
What's your purpose? I could get pictures and hours from the fleet... Probably 20-25 chippers, mostly bandit 12 to 21 inch (I think whatever a bandit 1990 is) id guess the average hours is somewhere in the 3-4000 ranges
Having gotten a chance to use the one @Burrapeg briefly this morning. I don't think there is a need for a magnet, rope weight is sufficient to keep the bar in place.
It's also quite phenomenal and I'm waiting on a chance to do more than hook onto stop signs/streetlights and the bucket truck with it
I was thinking a piece of bungee and some magnets on the rope side to hold tension while you're installing it. Something like the breakaway neck tether or lanyard magnet thing. But I want to try it as is first before modifying it