Omg, short drill bits! The thought never even crossed my mind and now I feel so dumb! I know what I’ll be ordering tonight . For the the drawbar I use a 12 point socket on my cordless impact driver. It works awesome and the drawbar has a top collar that ejects they collets if you back id off all the way. No hammer needed. You ever watch dan gelbarts YouTube videos? Well worth checking out.I looked up your machine. Nice. You're in the world of R8. Tip - keep a nice 6" adjustable for the drawbar and many other things. Make a small 3 or 4" 2x4 cutoff and use it as a hammer to pop the collet wedging when loosening, pound with the end grain. My machine takes one or two good taps to break free. One hand tapping, other holding the tool which may drop out of the collet as you tap. Likewise, one hand on tool, finger spin draw bar, then snug with adjustable while still holding. This will become 2nd nature.
Consider some type of hour meter for wear and tear.
It almost never hurts your tools to cut slower or lighter than for production, and prolongs tool life. No need for smoke except on stainless.
Also, old saw files that don't do well on chains are still great for regular metal work. Different standards of performance.
They don't sell my machine anymore. Its about 600 lbs with about 4" cylindrical vertical, similar table movements and sizes to yours. 4 T slots. manual feed, 0.001" dials. no dro. R8. 5" quill travel plus head vertical repositioning. Even with 5" I bought a short set of drill bits fractional sizes, saves my bacon every so often.