Show off them splices
- Thread starter Jman
- Start date
Bob, that Tenex sling looks like there's a twist in the eye. I think that can diminish strength if it's built for something critical. Don't want to split hairs on you man, it just looks that way.
When I took the Yale Cordage Splicing Workshop, my rigging instructor bagged me for the same thing. I was struggling over a piece of Double Esterlon, which was the first splice that truly showed the benefit of whipping and lock stitching. It kept backing out while I was making it, so I pulled it apart to see if I had an unbalanced cover/core, and during that process, I lost the natural lay. I had done numerous 24 strand splices before that, and those don't seem to want to back out at all under low loads, whereas the DE seems to want to fall apart without a lock stitch/whip. The eye looked good and all, but the rigger said the twist would make it break lower than it should. I was a bit bummed, but it was a good lesson...so we took another really good eye and put it on the break machine.
When you keep things nice and neat on your bench, you can assure that the line tucks in without a twist in the lay for ultimate strength. This is pretty crucial for double braids, too, where you may not be able to see a twist in the core.
Keep at it, bud. Your work shows a good finish.
When I took the Yale Cordage Splicing Workshop, my rigging instructor bagged me for the same thing. I was struggling over a piece of Double Esterlon, which was the first splice that truly showed the benefit of whipping and lock stitching. It kept backing out while I was making it, so I pulled it apart to see if I had an unbalanced cover/core, and during that process, I lost the natural lay. I had done numerous 24 strand splices before that, and those don't seem to want to back out at all under low loads, whereas the DE seems to want to fall apart without a lock stitch/whip. The eye looked good and all, but the rigger said the twist would make it break lower than it should. I was a bit bummed, but it was a good lesson...so we took another really good eye and put it on the break machine.
When you keep things nice and neat on your bench, you can assure that the line tucks in without a twist in the lay for ultimate strength. This is pretty crucial for double braids, too, where you may not be able to see a twist in the core.
Keep at it, bud. Your work shows a good finish.
TreeLogic
Branched out member
- Location
- Coastal SC
Here's my new Vortex lanyard. CE style. Still takes me a lot longer to do a double braid splice in this stuff than the videos I've been watching.
ARLO
Branched out member
Here are a couple of Tachyon splices. I hope the size and resolution is ok - this is the first photo I have posted on Treebuzz. If you have suggestions to help me with photo size and resolution in future posts, please weigh in. 
I dunno if sewn splices are welcome in thus thread, but here a few splices I'm climbing on now. Buried and sewn. The ocean 10mm is my lanyard with a 4 wrap prusiks and shwabish both with 8mm ocean. I can't remember what the black split tail is. The black and gold is a tool bucket hauling rope.
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Treezybreez
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Lancaster, SC
I hope you have had some stitched eyes break tested? It doesn't look like you stitched them very much.
TreeLogic
Branched out member
- Location
- Coastal SC
I don't think anyone would have a problem with you posting them here but they might be easier for future searches if they were in one of the stitched eye threads
I agree with treezybreez above, get them tested. I would guess (don't know for sure) that the margin for error with stitched eyes is much greater, even though when done correctly they're stronger than splices.
Check out the thread below and in particular Moss' posts. He goes through his process of making them and does a great job. I think if you do some searches you'll find other threads about stitched eyes and maybe more helpful ideas. Wouldn't want you to get hurt so please be careful climbing on something that hasn't been tested.
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/stitched-eyes.26999/
TreeLogic
Branched out member
- Location
- Coastal SC
Another good thread below. There are some links in this one that document Moss's process.
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/sewn-eyes-help-me-understand-strength.24361/page-3
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/sewn-eyes-help-me-understand-strength.24361/page-3
I appreciate the advice fellas. It was Moss's thread that I found the forum. It is a very good thread. Moss and the forum members did a great job in discussing the topic.
I test my splices differently. Don't get me wrong, I agree static weight is important. I worry about dynamic loading and that's how I test my splices. I drop 500 lbs 6',10', and 15' and record the damage of the splices. 15' renders some interesting results. Never have I had a bury or a stitch fail.
There's a lot of stitches in those eyes. I've been sewing my eyes more than bury for more than 5 years. I'll drag out some more buried splices and replace the splice here and move them to spliced thread.
I test my splices differently. Don't get me wrong, I agree static weight is important. I worry about dynamic loading and that's how I test my splices. I drop 500 lbs 6',10', and 15' and record the damage of the splices. 15' renders some interesting results. Never have I had a bury or a stitch fail.
There's a lot of stitches in those eyes. I've been sewing my eyes more than bury for more than 5 years. I'll drag out some more buried splices and replace the splice here and move them to spliced thread.
robinia
Participating member
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
13echo4,
Have you got any videos or photos of those drop tests? I'd like to see how you do them and the results.
Have you got any videos or photos of those drop tests? I'd like to see how you do them and the results.
tuttle
New member
- Location
- Somewhere in the 21st century
Dear echo, please stitch your threads on the 10mm op right through the cover so that it going through the center.
My concern is that the stitch is only one edge, and the fray from 10mm op could take advantage by releasing those threads (unless i'm wrong about your stitch pattern)
This is my latest trick, its a rigging pully saver, with a dyneema core on the main rope, brummel spliced and lock stitched, same with the prusik, that has a dyneema/vectran core.
My concern is that the stitch is only one edge, and the fray from 10mm op could take advantage by releasing those threads (unless i'm wrong about your stitch pattern)
This is my latest trick, its a rigging pully saver, with a dyneema core on the main rope, brummel spliced and lock stitched, same with the prusik, that has a dyneema/vectran core.
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Worthaug
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- North Cakilaki
Whats your trick to whiplocking your splices so close to the throat of the splice? It is so hard to pass a needle through there. I like to whip lock where the the core tails exits the cover just before final bury, basically where the taper is.
I like to keep the whipping close to the splice. I like keeping things compact and out of the way. I believe there is less chance of it being abraded or snagging if it is closer to the biner. As for how I do it. I put my needle in a vise I have mounted on my bench and push the splice onto the needle. Once the needle is protruding from the other side I flip the splice over clamp the pointy end of the needle in the vice and finish pulling it through. I hope that answers your question. If not let me know and I will do a vid.
Worthaug
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- North Cakilaki
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense, and I kinda figured that was your technique (or something similar to that). Might I remind you that your efforts may be in vain since a whip lock or any lock stitch in a splice is only there to keep an unloaded splice from creeping, a double braid, 12 strand, or any other splice under load (unless done wrong) will not budge. So, I would suggest if your'e doing alot of splices, like ABR does for Treestuff.com, save yourself the time and effort and move away from the throat, IMO. Keep up the good work ;-)
