Show off them splices

Yes. Someone here said that velocity rope was slippery and relatively easy so that's why I started with it.
It's super hard so yeah it's gonna be a learning experience sewing it. Bonner sold me a sailers palm so I'm just waiting on the twine.
 
I am not recommending this by any means but I never stitched the velocity splice that I did and used it for about a year daily with no slippage, maybe it's wreck-less but it never bothered me.
 
Nice work! The Sail Palm will be a big help, put some Obenaufs or other leather treatment on it to soften it up.

Levi, I really like that setup!
 
Nice job! Looks good.

The part I always like about lock stitching is it allows us as splicers to put our own individuality to the final product.

Find a method/pattern that works and is all your own. Then you will always recognize your work!

Tony
 
[ QUOTE ]
My first double braid splice. First attempt.

[/ QUOTE ]

Nice job, Oroboros! In your photo, it looks like the core exit is still visible down at the lower right side of the taper. I'm sure that will work out in time, but just curious if you massaged the exit hole in the cover after tucking the tapered core end?

Not trying to be too critical here...the time to massage out the visibility of the exit hole is before the final bury of the crossover. The added material fills up the throat of the taper much tighter than before the bury.

Nice looking work...serious, bra!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Almost done.

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Sweet, Levi!
cool.gif


I have something similar...16 strand with a small ring on one end and a 'biner/Pinto Rig on the other end. This allows temporary removal of the Rig to create a spar choke if there's no branch union for the rigging. I guess I could have sourced a ring large enough to pass the Rig through it, but I used what I had.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
My first double braid splice. First attempt.

[/ QUOTE ]

Nice job, Oroboros! In your photo, it looks like the core exit is still visible down at the lower right side of the taper. I'm sure that will work out in time, but just curious if you massaged the exit hole in the cover after tucking the tapered core end?

Not trying to be too critical here...the time to massage out the visibility of the exit hole is before the final bury of the crossover. The added material fills up the throat of the taper much tighter than before the bury.

Nice looking work...serious, bra!

[/ QUOTE ]

Much thanks Oceans.
Honestly I don't remember it now. I followed the guy in the video to the letter. There is a very slight lump in it when I run my hand down it.
 
That lump might be what is called a stress riser. It would be the result of fibers backing over themselves from altering a poor bury, or simply the lack of a smooth, gradual tapering cut of the fibers. Sharp scissors are so darn important, especially with high mod fibers in Class 2 ropes.

A sharp stress riser will usually be the point of failure in a splice because energy is asymmetrically focused into that area under load. Even a careful and diligent splicing job usually results in point of failure to be right at the beginning of the taper. If this failure occurs at a higher load than the average breaking strength of the rope itself, the point of failure is moot.

Your work looks great, especially for the first you've ever done. Keep it up!

FWIW, our chapter had a splicing workshop at Yale Cordage in 2013. It was awesome. We got to break stuff and all. We did numerous Class 1 DB splices with DE (Double Esterlon). That stuff goes together like a dream, and truly exhibits why lock stitching is important, as the splice can back out FAR easier than any other DB splice I have done (Like Tachyon, Blue Moon, etc...). I would say a rope like DE is probably the best to practice with, since the techniques can easily be transferred to a more difficult cordage, and the practice will show it's value.
 
I agree Oceans! that double esterlon is a breeze! grabbed a hank of it out of the "treasure box" and have spliced all of it into different sized eyes. also scored a chunk of blue moon and dont have one successful splice. It gets so tight trying to "run it home" that i physically cant bury it. actually about to backtrack and play with some tenex and 16 strand and really try to get the basics down. I'm gonna make it to Fids and Fibers this yr, super pumped about that! scissors might also b one of my mistakes......thanks man!

Kieran
 
Kieran, soap will totally help with burying the core into the cover before the final bury. I haven't yet needed it for a final bury, but there might be some merit to it. I've always found that to be the most difficult part of most DB splices. I used to use masking tape to make the bullet, but now I'm using electrical and some soap. You DO NOT want electrical tape without soap, or the tape will flip over and get adhesive all over the inside of the jacket.

The final bury should be just a matter of getting all the slack up into the throat and massaging it towards the eye while keeping the crossover snug. The last few inches can be tight and most time consuming, but by bending the throat back and forth, the slack works it's way up.

It took me a while to learn the best way to do the final bury on Tachyon. I kept messing up, and sometimes it was due to burying the core at the beginning of the eye mark, rather than 8 tracers farther up. Those eyes will NEVER bury. The toughest thing was keeping the crossover tight so nothing bunched up. Then I learned that it's not the pulling of the cover that does the work, it's pulling the eye. The mechanics of a DB splice actually close the eye as you pull the it, so putting a carabiner in there really helps.

As far as DB difficulties go, I would say (from least to greatest):
1- Imori
2- Velocity
3- Tachyon & Blue Moon

Tied for 3rd...Tachyon has the extra inner core, and Blue Moon can be tough to finish the bury without Mechanical Advantage and/or a super solid work station.

I'm definitely going to Mark's Fidz and Fiberz by the Firezide. He should totally use Z's!
 
Oceans,
I wish that I could pass the pinto thru the ring as well but I also went with what was available at the time. Get it on the next one.

Here is a pic of my first PI splice. It went well although it was more difficult than expected based on what I have heard from others, but not too bad.
 

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That looks great, Levi. PI is a tough one. Which splicing guide did you follow? Only reason I ask is that feel like I've seen some final buries that appear to have a longer taper. It's just so hard to tell without the thing in your hands... Also, did you use any lube?
 

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