Show off them splices

[Treezybreez]

Nice looking splices there B1040.

Here is a Yale Poison Ivy tight eye I did for a friend. I really appreciate Nick's tip on stitching the crossover prior to the final bury; it makes a world of difference.

 

[Treezybreez]

And another

 

[bonner1040]

Treezy, You must use Samson instructions..

I use New Englands. The big difference is NERopes has you tuck the core first, then taper the jacket, bury the jacket, taper the core, bury the core, and run the splice home.

What this means is that the cross over isnt really made until the 2nd to last step before running it home. Burying the core doesnt jerk the crossover around a bunch so it doesnt get messed up.

I havent done a PI splice, but I like the looks of yours!

 

[Treezybreez]

I do pretty much use Samson instructions, although I have gleaned a few tips from other sources like Yale and New England.

I do pull the cover into the core first with a wire fid, however I use a clip to hold the tapered cover end until I get the core buried. Then I grab the crossover unclip the clip and milk the core all the way over the cover. If I am dealing with a difficult rope, then I use a fine thread to stitch up the crossover point and a little further down. That way it is less likely to bunch on the final bury.

Thanks for the compliment.

 

[bonner1040]

Yale Bandit

Not my best looking work by a long shot.

Had to walk away from it last night:

This morning:

 

[bonner1040]

Its a mega-illegal, super light weight friction saver!

 

[MattyD]

I love it! looks great. change the carabiner to a revolver, or better yet a larger X-ring no your right bonner...illegal

 

[Jim82Aus]

Hi all just a few of my splices to date.

 

[bonner1040]

Made a Secret Weapon / R-r Friction Saver for a friend on the TreeHouse forum.

10mm OP - ISC rings - 30" end to end of the textile.

 

[Merle Nelson]

[ QUOTE ]
I love it! looks great. change the carabiner to a revolver, or better yet a larger X-ring no your right bonner...illegal

[/ QUOTE ]



Hey Matt!

Do you know what it would take for David to release a “legal” XRR climbing friction saver?

Lot of beautiful splices pictured here. Just got a long piece of 3/4 Tenex Tech to make a Beast re-direct. (Also got that 3/8 TVP I wanted to try.)

 

[bonner1040]

All you need is a tight splice Merle. There is as much risk of a splice breaking as there is of an XRR falling out of one. If its done right, and tight it isnt going to come out. Just like you cant pull a 30mm ball through a 20mm hole.

I would reccomend a 20/14 and a Pensafe ring.

 

[bonner1040]

Merle, I made another one up... A friend posed the question of whether there was a R-r combination that would allow the small ring to choke through the big ring, here it is.

14/10 XRR and a big DMM ring

 

[Tree Access]

Super minimal, yeah, but you dont fit a spliced eye through the small ring. Maybe minimalists love knots as well...

Another nice option is the 6mm thimble from DMM, it fits through large rings also.

 

[MooseHead]

Here some of my recent stuff. [image]http://

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[bonner1040]

Wow. I feel LAZY

 

[PatWood]

I have had some time in the evenings the past few days...

 

[PatWood]

Do you use a class 2 db splice on your armor-prus 8mm cord when doing eye-to-eye prussics?

 

[Marden]

Question 1: Whipping
I notice none of these splices look like they were stitched. Is that because you took the shots before whipping them ? Or do you feel that it is really not necessary ?

Question 2: Load testing your splices
In the same vein, can anyone tell me what the relative strength would be for an eye-to-eye splice ? Have you tested your splices ? For example, if using Samson Velocity 11mm rope with an MBS of 5400lb, what would the strength of the splice be ? Or what is the estimated percent loss of strength for these splices ?

Also, I assume these are Class 1 double braid splices.

Thanks,
-Michael

 

[MooseHead]

Recent lanyard I made to go with the pink dmm HC and biners.

 

[lonniels]

Is that assaultline from bluewater?