Rope Wrench Ruminations

Very nice. Kevin I liked the large diameter pin better but want to keep it midline attachable. How would affect the RW if I bored the hole bigger to accept a larger diameter pin?
 
Peteyt Said
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Bushing:

I bought this:

5/16 Nom. I.D., 1/2 Nom. O.D., 1 1/2 Lg., Bunting Bearings, Cast Bronze Sleeve Bearings

http://www.amazon.com/Nom-Bunting-Bearin...4243&sr=1-3

They are 1.5 inches long. I cut them down to an appropriate size with a hacksaw, I forget if that width was 9/16 or 11/16, but you don't have to get very close on it anyhow. It doesn't matter so long as the rope has full contact. Deburr the edges after the cut. Order a few - they are cheaper than the shipping! - and you are bound to screw em up cutting them or to lose them. I noticed that the I.D. on them is a little larger than the pin I have, but the O.D. is exactly the same as the original RW piece. With the (only) slightly larger I.D. than the pin, they do spin a little (just like the pin does) but they do seem to lock in place (just like the pin) when fully engaged. In any case, even if they do spin, I don't notice any wear anywhere yet. And since they are bronze, the bushing will wear instead of the pin. I actually like the spin of the pin and the bushing as it releases a little bit easier on ascent.

they seem a pretty good solution to me. I have found that I like just the pin on the 1/2 rope and don't feel like i am missing anything without the bushing. PLus, makes it way easier to switch to the tachyon.

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back on page three. These threads get so long and its hard to find whats already been said sometimes.

I think a bushing would be better than bigger holes, but I've never tried either :)
 
I have done it at a machine shop, to see how easy it is. It is very hard to dill a hole bigger without serious clamps and tools. Practice on something first. I actually found the smaller diameter to work well. A little different but well just the same. Im not one for smaller diameter ropes though either and I believe the pin is a little sloppier on the skinny lines.
 
What about throwing a bushing on the adjustment bolt (so it does not have to come off). Thus compensating for the smaller pin. This way you could run the smaller ropes at the same spacing as the non mid line wrench.

Kevin, where can that pin in the video be obtained?
 
- I editted my orignal post as it was a bit negative towards other people (not toward the rope wrench or maker) and so vague that many people could feel that I was talking directly about them. So I removed all of that and just left this last possitve line-


Just want to say, GREAT JOB!, to the developer of the Rope Wrench.



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HA!

I just read this original post for the first time. Great information there.

I guess my bouncing around on various threads on Rope Wench, i was always reading the wrong stuff.

I should read more. Plus, I will check out Kevin's videos.

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Well? it has been 3 months or so of climbing on the Singing Tree Rope Wrench so I feel I've learned enough to talk a bit about it's pros and cons.

First off, it is a complete switch in climbing mentality, this is the single biggest hurdle that climbers coming from DdRT to SRT have to deal with.

You must pre-plan your climb, how you will attack a certain tree with regards to the work to be done.

It is very much like chess in a tree, you can't make a move without forethought of what the outcome will be. When I climbed DRT, I would hump up into the tree physically, then do the work as I went.

with SRT the ability to weave your rope under, over and around limbs, crotches etc. gives a 3rd dimension to 2D climbing.

Whereas in the past, I would get out on a limb come hell or highwater, and sometimes this was a safety concern, especially when it came time to come back in.
Now, if I plan accordingly there is no reason why i need to come back in from a scary position unless I want to. I can simply drop down thru a redirect under the limb and continue to work with uninterrupted, consistent friction.

I find that my friction hitch actually behaves better and functions better with the wrench. I think this is because it never changes in feel from one situation to the next.
It is a smoother action due to the fact that the RW takes a good amount of the stress off the hitch, making them last longer as well.


You need to try to get your hitch as compact as you can though to make it effective at grabbing right away.

One major disadvantage to the wrench vs. DRT is the ability to move in short bursts while in the canopy.

There is still nothing as simple as pulling the running end of your line and pulling slack as you go for quick body-thrusting moves.

You will quickly become fast-friends with your Pantin whilst working SRT ;) I also added the DMM thimble to my tether as a quick clip-spot for the over the shoulder lanyard when ascending or moving anyhting over 10 feet in the tree.

I did find out though, that with the lanyard clipped over the shoulder and enough rope thru under you, that hand over handing will self-tail the rope slick as snot !
Now it is a bit more physical doing it like this, but you move up the rope twice as fast as with DRT.

That though, is the ONLY slight disadvantage when making the switch, but the more I climb SRT, the less I notice it, it is all a matter of retraining the muscle memory portion of the brain/body.

On removals, I simply tie a cinching running bowline with a long tail thru the loop, while I'm working down the spar, I just pull it down as I go, easy peasy, just as easy as choking the spar DRT.

I find myself climbing the tree a lot more with the RW, which for climbing ease and confidence, is not a bad thing, the rope is there to position us and keep us aloft, but there is no reason we can't climb the tree too.

If there is to be a lot of up and down in a tree, then a revolver clipped in an A-butterfly at your TIP with the tail clipped in, makes a super MA for pulling yourself back up very easily, I do this sometimes and it works well. You can leave it in there too when you are done, descend and pull it all out easily.

there are cautionary measures and as some of you know, early in my testing of the RW, I took a fall of about 30 feet to the ground on my back. It was a combination of my cocky attitude and complacency. My hitch was tied too long and loose, it was not tended tight enough so it was waist level and my pantin pooped out. all of this combined to create a semi-controlled free-fall to terra firma.

Lesson learned and Kevin put a great little safety vid on youtube about keeping it safe. It was in NO PART due to the RW, just my dumbass-self.


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http://www.youtube.com/user/treebing49



all in all, I give it a 10+ out of 10 for making climbing more economical ( both physically and fiscally), for making it more fun, and for opening more avenues for learning and in the end, making $$$.

SRT and DdRT both have places in our work, and it is good to be able to combine the 2 with the RW.

I for one, can't WAIT to try the ZK-2.0 out
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Hope this helps out some people who are on the fence to jump off and give it a run, it is pissing rain up here today, so a good day to write.

Oh yeah before I forget,the single biggest drawback for me? I'm a gearhead who now has loads of gear collecting dust
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SJ works very well for me with RW. Been climbing with that setup for about 6mnths. Prefer to RW hitch and Unicender. Horses for courses I suppose. As for the tail issue I just normally pull a bit through but try being more forceful with clutch it's covered for ddrt by joe harris on utube ( spiderjackery III), no need for redirecting pulley ART are apparently bringing out a new clutch handle with a little pulley on end for this soon and a replacement for velcro. Posted some info on setup on arbtalk today on RW video post. Ken
 
could you post a picture of SJ with rope wrench, I'd like to see where you are attaching tether to that works.

Been using spider jack for months now and being more forcefull with the handle does not work for me if the tail is behind and I'm way out on a limb. In his video, any more horizontal than he was and it would not have worked in my opinion. yes, it will feed tail to a certain angle, but more horizontal it stops working.

maybe using a smaller diameter rope it works better.

thanks,
 
Two things that work for me on the horizontal and even above the tie in with one hand and the tail above or at difficult angle

Grab a foot or more slack in the standing end and then release the lever. May have to do it in 1ft increments or so to get to where your going. Really no different than rope n rope just better because of the ease of smooth metal on rope.

And on the return you ease the rope in thru the top of the LJ or SJ. Slack is easy to tend with one hand!


Hope this helps
 
Had an interesting little race today at work with a contract climber we use. He had his doubled rope set and foot locked up, while I had my SRT line set and just had the lanyard over the shoulder+pantin. He was over halfway up before I started up my tree, and I was at my first few cuts and ready to go by the time he was just starting to get tied in. Pulled my saw up and got my first area done before he even pulled up his saw. Just thought it was cool to compare the two techniques side by side like that in a way.
 
Nice one Ranger. I too had a positive RW experience. Pruning two large cottonwoods. The main lead was centered over both trees. Decided to break out Jesse Huffmans custom made RW and was really kind of surprised how fast and simple the climb was.(Dont normally use the RW at all). 20 minutes later had both trees cleaned and was on the ground.
It's climbs like that that made me pony up and order one. (Jesse I'll have your unit back asap). Also, the hopes of possibly using it in a Master's climb...
 
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Had an interesting little race today at work with a contract climber we use. He had his doubled rope set and foot locked up, while I had my SRT line set and just had the lanyard over the shoulder+pantin. He was over halfway up before I started up my tree, and I was at my first few cuts and ready to go by the time he was just starting to get tied in. Pulled my saw up and got my first area done before he even pulled up his saw. Just thought it was cool to compare the two techniques side by side like that in a way.

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This is good stuff ranger. I am been using mine more and more.
 

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