Rope Wrench Ruminations

Re: SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

Is there any way I could get a pic of your set-up RopeShield? I use a croll with mine as well, but no Lockjack. Thanks
 
It's been a while since I have posted. Without looking at the last post and just putting my two cents in....

I wish that kevin would've figured thus system out when I was just learning to climb. It is by far the easiest way to work trees. As long as you use your brain.

I have footlocked, hip trusted, hooked trees to get in and work. There is no easier way to access and work a tree on a rope.

Thank you treebuzz for all the great info that has made me a safe well rounded productive climber.
 
Kevin was ruminating about a stiff tether between the hitch and the RW.

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Havent heard much recently on the removable pin for the RW. Looking at some of the other ideas guys have been coming up with, I think there could be a better way. The push pin is quick but looks annoying. I was hoping for more streamlined and tighter fitting in the holes. From what I've seen its going an opposite way to what could progress for the RW. The one way that seems would fit better and keep it streamlined(and safer) is a style like the SPRING LOCK blocks.

A little machining could make this happen. It would keep it snug like the existing pin, captive, sleek and safer.
Why your at it, would making the RW itself smaller more compact affect it's function or just make it look cooler than it already is. Please dont "settle" for the push pin, just doesnt seem right. That mind in your head Kev has got to have room for more ideas
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I have found that the Slic pin (available from Treestuff.com is much more low profile and slicker than the push button QRP. It is also stronger and cheaper. downside is it is a little harder to operate with gloved hands. I have made prototype of a swinging side cheeck RW that is attached with a carabiner as etree mentioned but was not happy with it at all because of the bulk and weight that the carabiner adds to the equation. the carabiner negates any effort to make the wrench lower profile.

I do think that the wrench can be a bit smaller and am trying to find the optimal length. I have heard from heavier climbers that the wrench does not give quite enough friction and from lighter climbers that it gives too much. It is hard to find the right balance between angle of bushings and length of wrench. The tighter the angle of bushings, the more friction is acheived with a shorter lever, but then the wrench has the problem of not engaging and sliding down the rope.

How do you guys feel about the adjustibility feature of the wrench? I have debated making the wrench riveted and only for use with standard lines or even making different wrenches for different sized ropes. this would make eliminating the exterior nuts easier. I have found that the difference in settings does not make as big of a difference as I had initially thought. especially when useing the pin.

All your comments here are very much appreciated both negative and positive.
 
I find mine works well with both the 1mm KM111 and the 11.7mm rocket just fine.

not sure making multiple sizes would be economically feasible would it?

I think dialing in a good all around length would be best, make it shorter, more rounded and be able to attach mid-line easy, either factory-ready or with that little Slic-pin.

What about just a lighter, more rounded , slicker looking version of the original? maybe a tad shorter?

cheers and keep up the awesome work Kevin, you are making a difference in bringing treework up to speed with the rest of the vertical access trades, we are not so "stone-age" anymore ;)
 
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I think it has certain advantages. It can be installed midline, and the friction it develops can be adjusted with the 10-32 cap screw. I am not sure how well it advances with a hitch climber pulley below the hitch, as I do not own one.

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Hey Surveyor,

Do you want one of my old hitchclimbers? The company I work for bought me one so I have an extra if you would like it. PM me and let me know. Lonnie
 
Kevin i think it would be cool if the wrench was more rounded mid line attachable and with the option of throwing the spacer on to the mid line pin, So you have the option of making the space even bigger or smaller depending on what you are running. My last set up was 10m htp with 8m beeline with a vt. I adjusted the spacer all the way tight to compensate for the smaller diameter pin. I love this set up. My new set up I’m trying to fine tune is escalator line with longer 8m beeline vt with the non mid line attachable wrench opened up all the way. I tried the escalator with the mid line wrench and it would bite down hard and not let me descend, It may have been my hitch though. I went back to the my first wrench, opened it up all the way and adjusted the length of hitch and i think I’m good! I still need to play around with this combo though.


So I would like to see an option to slide the space on or off the mid line pin and make it more rounded so in doesn’t dig in to the trees when redirecting. I'm in the love zone with the wrench!
 
Hey Gordon, nice work on that stiff bar, wouldnt mind plaing on that, a hole on the top of the bar could work to atach a biner to maybe?
 
Yes, my thought was it could be an attach point for the hand ascender when going up, or chest attach point as a sort of croll. I think I prefer the textile tether, but it does keep the friction on tap almost immediatly.
 
Kevin. I replaced my silky zubat blade today and was thinking. Why not make the adjustment pin like those. Then they would be low profile but still adjustable/ removable!

I like it with the Slic pin. I wear gloves all the time and even the winter weight atlas and have not had a problem operating the pin. With a little pressure on the head of the pin the spring is easily disengaged.

Last I heard a couple guys talk about the possibility of loosing the pin when removing the pin. Simple solution to this problem is to not fully remove the pin. If you disengage the pin and release it past the outside plate (only half way) it has a small enough profile to slip even 13mm rope into place. Then you replace the pin the whole way through. Never a risk of dropping!

For those that have had to much or too little friction, try a different sized rope. The static lines you will have more friction and a slower decent the more flexible and smaller the rope the faster the ride will be. It's all customizable for each individual.

It's geat (to quote Tony the tiger)
 
Re: SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

Here is my set up on my new Kolibri saddle. I have one Navaho Boss with sternal croll and dorsal attachment that works well for upright rope walkin and when there is alot of sitting required.
Worked another very large pine and sugar today.
Still trying to work out a more effecient system for slack tending back in or up for short distances.
Tried it with a prussic on the ground and find the LJ much easier for descents but not as good as rope on rope for ascents.
I will have to set up pulley or biner sytem and loop the tail thru for some MA.

Really be careful if you base tie. One nick or drop of a saw and your in for a free fall.

I picked up some cheap 3/8" poly for 10 bucks for an easy tip tie retrival. I think that is the best way to work it.
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Re: SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

I'm trying to wrap my head around why you are disconnecting the RW & LJ and preferring the Croll on ascent. Does the LJ's cam engage when you you step down with the Pantin? It seems a little cluttered. Maybe I'll have to go back to your previous post for the answer.
 
Re: SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

I found the downfall to using the lock jack with the RW, is on rope tending in from a limb walk. It is difficult to keep my wait on the line and tend the set up. Also it does not catch instantly when you mock slip. It takes a second to have the weight sit in the set up. It does work very smooth though
 
Re: SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

[ QUOTE ]
Here is my set up on my new Kolibri saddle. I have one Navaho Boss with sternal croll and dorsal attachment that works well for upright rope walkin and when there is alot of sitting required.
Worked another very large pine and sugar today.
Still trying to work out a more effecient system for slack tending back in or up for short distances.
Tried it with a prussic on the ground and find the LJ much easier for descents but not as good as rope on rope for ascents.
I will have to set up pulley or biner sytem and loop the tail thru for some MA.

Really be careful if you base tie. One nick or drop of a saw and your in for a free fall.

I picked up some cheap 3/8" poly for 10 bucks for an easy tip tie retrival. I think that is the best way to work it.
smile.gif


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cool rig man, but base tying is okay, you have to be aware, and if you are using either hand or chainsaw, you should be lanyarded in too though
wink.gif
 
Re: SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

[ QUOTE ]
Here is my set up on my new Kolibri saddle. I have one Navaho Boss with sternal croll and dorsal attachment that works well for upright rope walkin and when there is alot of sitting required.
Worked another very large pine and sugar today.
Still trying to work out a more effecient system for slack tending back in or up for short distances.
Tried it with a prussic on the ground and find the LJ much easier for descents but not as good as rope on rope for ascents.
I will have to set up pulley or biner sytem and loop the tail thru for some MA.

Really be careful if you base tie. One nick or drop of a saw and your in for a free fall.

I picked up some cheap 3/8" poly for 10 bucks for an easy tip tie retrival. I think that is the best way to work it.
smile.gif


[/ QUOTE ]

Hi, i find keeping the system compact and throwing your lanyard over your shoulder then clipping it into the top carb connection point of the lockjack works well for advancing the system and removes the need for the croll. (i do have a cut away attached to the rope wrench and larks foot tied through the top crab in the lock jack which allows me to use this point for the lanyard crab. Then a pantin on one foot and hand ascender and foot loop above the wrench. Just what i prefer from playing around with it and was curious to know what made you set yours up in that way, just keen to get a bloomin good understanding of everyone elses experiences with this.

Ian
 
Re: SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

The Croll set up has been with me for ten years on the Navaho and really find it to be multi-useful.
It is consistent and firm progress at the sternum, centre of mass and holds you more upright with no loss of progress.

Connecting with the lanyard makes sense just need to remember to give it go.
Thanks for the reminder Flatters!

We did an Island of 6 Red maple the other day with a nice high centre tie in in the middle of the group.
Started off with drt and wish I finshed with the Singing/lj combo after moving into the lower crowns and crossing over a few leads.

The struggle with drt would have been easily overcome if I remembered the Singing Rope Wrench.
I would have installed the RW at the point where the friction on the drt system was becoming cumbersome.
Disconnect top biner and tie off to working end with a prussik and retreival cord and biner/pullery and then finish
the job on Srt.
Only thought of it after trying to go back into the centre stem.
The right tool was right there just need to be more conscious of when and where to use it.
Its a cool tool that challenges the mind, the body and status quo.
 
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