Rope Wrench Ruminations

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What was it that made it unsafe to clear on the way up??

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Lots of dead hangers over the first 70ft at least, some still attached others completely loose....probably something big had come down years prior and smashed everything in its path on the way to the ground. So a pattern or higher hangers resting on the next broken limb below all the way up....and since thats the way I shot the line through I was confident I climb through it all without dislodging anything.

I did manage to lighten several of the less darkened photos btw which I'll embed in the next few minutes, along with some other shots of more fir crown-cleaning just recently.

Trev, no I'm not a lefty, but I have two pantins and am just wearing out the left one for now. Thanks
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Hi,

Im just getting to grips with the Rope Wrench and have been trying different set-ups, knots and more recently using the Lockjack. I only had a low and slow play with it but decided to take a picture before i put it away. Thought it might be of interest to anyone, someone, no-one.
 

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I'd be really careful with that. Make sure the Jack will engage reliably and consistently. What are your thoughts about tethering while ascending? I think you'll find that when the line asunder tension (wrench disengaged, line in straight path) you'll have to "redirect" the fall side to make the Jack engage. Also, I have for while heading out on limb walks, I can hold the Wrench disengaged with my thumb, and maintain space between the Wrench and hitch with my hand as I break the hitch with my pinky finger. $0.02
 
Havent heard much recently on the removable pin for the RW. Looking at some of the other ideas guys have been coming up with, I think there could be a better way. The push pin is quick but looks annoying. I was hoping for more streamlined and tighter fitting in the holes. From what I've seen its going an opposite way to what could progress for the RW. The one way that seems would fit better and keep it streamlined(and safer) is a style like the SPRING LOCK blocks.

A little machining could make this happen. It would keep it snug like the existing pin, captive, sleek and safer.
Why your at it, would making the RW itself smaller more compact affect it's function or just make it look cooler than it already is. Please dont "settle" for the push pin, just doesnt seem right. That mind in your head Kev has got to have room for more ideas
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It could be nice if the Wrench pivoted open on the middle pin, the forward pin could be connected on one side, (something like how a gri gri opens) and the back pin could be two holes that mate up for connection with a biner, snap, tether, etc...

I'm using a pin right now, and can't imagine not having the QR capabilities it offers. Sometimes I take it off just to ensure it won't get stuck in a crotch when retrieving from a redirect.
 
It seems to work well because of the friction caused by the wrench it acts in the same way as it would on a drt line, i have been cautious when climbing on it this way with a art back-up line 'just in case', like i said just seeing if it works, next plan is a good limb walk to see if the same forces are applied laterally i.e creating enough bite in the line.

But it seems to work well so far and there are a few in the Uk using it as this setup although my tether length needs to be much shorter i think to make it more compact.
 
I figured out the biggest downfall of the RW, it takes all the fun out of tying things onto climbers lines. Tea kettles and patio chairs come mind although, stubs and branches are also good!
 
Last year I was argueing with my dad while doing a side job with him at a friends house and he tied my line to the base. Took me a minute to realize what happened. But I always carry a deaf 8 and extra biners. I just unclipped and tied a running bowline and came down on the 8.


I've been wanting to get a RW next paycheck probably gonna do that. Advice for someone just starting out? What setup should I use?
 
I have been trying this setup as a rope wrench. I lent a very similar device to a fellow tree buzzer and hope to get more feedback from him also.

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I think it has certain advantages. It can be installed midline, and the friction it develops can be adjusted with the 10-32 cap screw. I am not sure how well it advances with a hitch climber pulley below the hitch, as I do not own one.
 
If you count the tools required and material costs, it ran well over $350.00 :) I don't have a picture of the other side. It is all custom made, except the standard size chain links and cap screw.
 
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I figured out the biggest downfall of the RW, it takes all the fun out of tying things onto climbers lines. Tea kettles and patio chairs come mind although, stubs and branches are also good!

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This is a very valid point. May be a good way to convert some if it is done consistently.
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I figured out the biggest downfall of the RW, it takes all the fun out of tying things onto climbers lines. Tea kettles and patio chairs come mind although, stubs and branches are also good!

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But if you tied a chair to my line, I wouldn't have to make a coil or monkey fist to throw and advance my line through a crotch. I might even be able to find a way to wedge the chair into the crown for a spot of tea from the tea kettle...
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SINGING Rope Wrench with the Lock Jack!

We did a 4 leader 100 plus footer White Pine today
(top and side reductions plus crown clean plus cable 3 leads) 8 hour job in about 6 hours.
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I did three leaders to my apprentices one leader. Scott ascended Srt and switched to drt for the work around and down. I Srt'd 1/2 way up and drt'd to the top and srt'd the rest of the tree.

The Singing Rope Wrench by my calculations saved me a atleast an hour (but I think more like 2 Hour) in time plus the smooth and easy positioning.
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I was able from one tie-in-point to do 3 of the four leads with great effeciency due to the zero friction of the redirects and rubbing of multiple limbs plus no retie-ins.

Very happy with smooth descents and positioning, at times near horizontal positioning. THis is much easier to do with Singing/Lock Jack set up. Love this big time. It is very cool experience to get to those periphery horzontal tips with a lot less effort.

On the ascents I find it is easier to
1. place a handled ascender/footloop below the wrench
2. insert rope into Croll at the sternum
3. disconnect the Lock jack and rope walk

Only down side is the slack tending. It takes a bit more effort but I have that pretty much figured out now as you can see above and for shorter ascents it can be pushed along with a little effort similar to a traditional drt system.

All I needs now is the push/pull pin for quick install or removal and we will have an awesome money making climb system for the New Year.


OH! It only took one big tree/tactically difficult climb for the Singing Rope Wrench to pay for itself.

I operated an Aerial lift truck for over 5 years as a municipal employee at one point in my career and I always said a good climber will KO a bucket truck, evident by the many many times the bucket was abandoned for rope access.

I believe with the Singing/Lock Jack system we are looking at a champion system. Perfection is getting close.

Thanks Kevin and Luke at TreeStuff.com for having the tree acumen.
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In case you are wondering I fly on the Velocity by Samson and have the Singing Rope Wrench full on tight with the tether about 6".

Cheers
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