Rope Wrench Feedback?

With the lanyard behind the back you can advance the rope wrench and friction hitch if the lanyard is connected in front to the hitch climber. Another Kevin Bingham invention as far as I know.
 
I use an eye to eye and hook it up to the rear of my saddle and over my shoulder and biner in to the hitchclimber- then i don't have to use my lanyard. Advances hitch and wrench very nicely.
 
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The ZK 1 is also easily moded to be midline attachable. A 5/8th one inch ball lock quick release pin to replace the front bushing.

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Did you mean 3/8 or 5/16?
 
mcmaster carr has them. next day delivery, west marine... ebay. the have them standard two ball and four ball rated pins.
 
I talked to Kevin a few days ago about that Cary and yes, it does limit and I think even eliminates the adjust ability of the two locking nuts. Don't quote me on that, but I'm 85 percent sure thats correct.
 
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With the lanyard behind the back you can advance the rope wrench and friction hitch if the lanyard is connected in front to the hitch climber. Another Kevin Bingham invention as far as I know.

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I flipped around my buckingham fall arrest suspenders so the attachment d ring is in the front. Hooked it into my hitch climber and it is gold. Self tends nicely. I'm getting this rope wrench system dialed in. The only thing I'm not loving
is my tether into a biner into the top hole of the HC. It works, but is always flipping around.
 
The current way I have been pruning at work with the wrench is setting my line over 1 to 2 good crotches and tying it off to the base with a bowline...Is there a way if someone only had 100' of rope on a 90' tall tree to isolate a single union with the throw ball,tie it off from the ground,ascend,then work the canopy,descend and somehow pull the whole works out of the tree?Im just trying to get the stretch out of this SRT system and the non working side of the line that's tied off at the base can be annoying to work around as you continue to prune on the descent.I tried yesterday taking the end of my line,tying it off to a crotch using a running bowline,then using some zing it tied to the bowline,then with the tree pruned I pulled the whole works out from the ground.It worked,but not well as it is somewhat difficult and annoying to work the canopy having to move the zing it out of your way. Any ideas?
 
Cambium saver with the rope made srt by using a mini rigging plate stopped up by midline butterfly behind the rigging plate. Pull out like normal.
 
What about a small throw line box with an R/C controlled servo, that would drop the box and the zing line and throw weight from where it was clamped at or near the TIP. The zing line would be attached to the bowline and could then pull the whole climbing rope down from the ground.
 
here is a pic. I put two butterflies behind it on the off chance one will loosen up. allows you to use all your redirects.

The other way I sometimes climb is with a running bowline at my high TIP and then I pull up my tail and tie it to the running bowline. this makes my tail a big loop and allows me some ability to go through redirects but is complicated managing a loop for a tail.
 
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Cambium saver with the rope made srt by using a mini rigging plate stopped up by midline butterfly behind the rigging plate. Pull out like normal.

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here is a pic. I put two butterflies behind it on the off chance one will loosen up. allows you to use all your redirects.
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sound interesting, Kevin ... the 'attachment' isn't coming through ... could you post another photo?
 
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