I think with that last comment Derick made I might have to start back with working SRT again. I really just never liked having a trunk wrap and needing to watch the other side of the line like that. Having part of my climbing line in such a vulnerable spot doesn't sit with me right.
Rope Wrench Feedback?
- Thread starter TreeStuff
- Start date
- Location
- Victoria, BC, CAD
I want one, but I'm holding out for 2.0
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
[ QUOTE ]
I think with that last comment Derick made I might have to start back with working SRT again. I really just never liked having a trunk wrap and needing to watch the other side of the line like that. Having part of my climbing line in such a vulnerable spot doesn't sit with me right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I deadwood a large blue spruce the other day. very dense canopy. I threw the line through the tope of the crown. my 200 foot Km 3. I walked to the furthest tree that the rope could reach and tied it off as high up the trunk as I could go. My tie in point was 50 feet away and my line was redirected through multiple small branches that would have been very difficult to isolate with ddrt. I was never in danger of cutting my line. You have to be strategic about where your line runs.
I use my groundie a lot to reset my line if it gets in the way. Or I set it in the tree. Gotta trust em to tie a running bowline with a back up.
I think with that last comment Derick made I might have to start back with working SRT again. I really just never liked having a trunk wrap and needing to watch the other side of the line like that. Having part of my climbing line in such a vulnerable spot doesn't sit with me right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I deadwood a large blue spruce the other day. very dense canopy. I threw the line through the tope of the crown. my 200 foot Km 3. I walked to the furthest tree that the rope could reach and tied it off as high up the trunk as I could go. My tie in point was 50 feet away and my line was redirected through multiple small branches that would have been very difficult to isolate with ddrt. I was never in danger of cutting my line. You have to be strategic about where your line runs.
I use my groundie a lot to reset my line if it gets in the way. Or I set it in the tree. Gotta trust em to tie a running bowline with a back up.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I've used mine on several jobs now.
My favorite place to use it so far was two locust removals I did this past weekend with a tie-in point far above the two trees.
Here it was particularly useful because the bark was off these dead locusts, and I kept slipping. I woulda used to be tied in above with just my prussik, and my lanyard around the removal. Just like advertised, the up/down transition is now seamless, and I feel safer.
Great product.
My favorite place to use it so far was two locust removals I did this past weekend with a tie-in point far above the two trees.
Here it was particularly useful because the bark was off these dead locusts, and I kept slipping. I woulda used to be tied in above with just my prussik, and my lanyard around the removal. Just like advertised, the up/down transition is now seamless, and I feel safer.
Great product.
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
here is a quick video of a cat rescue I did today.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFq8HVjkJyI&sns=fb
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFq8HVjkJyI&sns=fb
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
foot lock up a single line, come down 20 feet, go back up twenty feet and then come down and you'll understand it.
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
that is a hank of velocity
- Location
- Phoenix Arizona
Nice cat rescue man!
- Location
- Longmont, CO
[ QUOTE ]
So I've watch a bunch or the RW videos and still don't understand what it does. Can someone point me to a thread that explains it.
To me you might as well just foot lock up a single line. But with all the buzz I'm obviously missing something.
[/ QUOTE ]
Trying to climb SRT with just a V.T. hitch would be miserable. The Rope Wrench assists with giving the V.T. consistant friction (considerable to using the V.T. in a DDRT situation). The Rope Wrench will allow the ascent on rope without any other aid (if one chooses).
Therefore it is a SRT V.T. hitch assist.
So I've watch a bunch or the RW videos and still don't understand what it does. Can someone point me to a thread that explains it.
To me you might as well just foot lock up a single line. But with all the buzz I'm obviously missing something.
[/ QUOTE ]
Trying to climb SRT with just a V.T. hitch would be miserable. The Rope Wrench assists with giving the V.T. consistant friction (considerable to using the V.T. in a DDRT situation). The Rope Wrench will allow the ascent on rope without any other aid (if one chooses).
Therefore it is a SRT V.T. hitch assist.
- Location
- Springfield MO
I've used a RW with a VT (HRC) on static line but I don't know if this was a good mix. I'm going to try a Tenex prussik and use a VT on Velocity next.
I still don't know how to do a removal with the RW so I'd love some help with that...anyone.
I still don't know how to do a removal with the RW so I'd love some help with that...anyone.
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
I tie a running bowlin or mOnkey tailesque setup. Us my spurs and belay myself as I go. A good 100 foot rope is all you need since your TIP is at the top of the tree instead of the bottom of the tree. For even smaller trees I use even shorter lengths. I have no shOrtage of short ropes.
I'm about do for a new climbing line and am having a hard time deciding on what would be best using the rw. I'm currently using ivy and that seems fine but a bit bouncy. Tempted to get some static line but have never climbed on it, from what I gather it's good for ascent but I have no idea what it's like working off of. Thoughts? What does everyone else use the rw with?
- Location
- New Sealand
I'm not sure what climbing line would be 'best' with the rope wrench, but what I find very cool is that any climbing line can be used with it, with excellent results as far as I'm concerned. I prefer 10mm beeline for my friction hitch cord so the old-school arbormaster or XTC 12.5-13mm lines work just as well as the thinner, lighter lines like velocity.
Rope Wrench Rules!
I'm not sure if there's some type of innovation awards for tree climbing but I would nominate Kevin B., maybe even president!
Rope Wrench Rules!
I'm not sure if there's some type of innovation awards for tree climbing but I would nominate Kevin B., maybe even president!
- Location
- Cleveland,OH
[ QUOTE ]
I'm about do for a new climbing line and am having a hard time deciding on what would be best using the rw. I'm currently using ivy and that seems fine but a bit bouncy. Tempted to get some static line but have never climbed on it, from what I gather it's good for ascent but I have no idea what it's like working off of. Thoughts? What does everyone else use the rw with?
[/ QUOTE ]
I sent Kevin an almost identical question in a PM yesterday,but have yet to hear back from him.It's all good though im sure his message board has been full since he invented this amazing little device.I think im going to try http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=142&item=610 .I have been using the wrench with New England 11mm Fly at work (not my ultimate choice for srt but it's what's there and it seems fine)but would really like a lot less bounce.I would also like to add that this little device has really changed how I climb.And not just changing from drt to srt,but my climbing specifically,how I access and work the entire canopy is just plain easier.75% of the work I do is pruning and in the short couple of weeks that I have been using the wrench I have yet to come across an instance where I have had friction on the hitch(BTW I use a VT).Just an awesome awesome product.Thanks so much Kevin for coming up with the idea and creating the product.
I'm about do for a new climbing line and am having a hard time deciding on what would be best using the rw. I'm currently using ivy and that seems fine but a bit bouncy. Tempted to get some static line but have never climbed on it, from what I gather it's good for ascent but I have no idea what it's like working off of. Thoughts? What does everyone else use the rw with?
[/ QUOTE ]
I sent Kevin an almost identical question in a PM yesterday,but have yet to hear back from him.It's all good though im sure his message board has been full since he invented this amazing little device.I think im going to try http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=142&item=610 .I have been using the wrench with New England 11mm Fly at work (not my ultimate choice for srt but it's what's there and it seems fine)but would really like a lot less bounce.I would also like to add that this little device has really changed how I climb.And not just changing from drt to srt,but my climbing specifically,how I access and work the entire canopy is just plain easier.75% of the work I do is pruning and in the short couple of weeks that I have been using the wrench I have yet to come across an instance where I have had friction on the hitch(BTW I use a VT).Just an awesome awesome product.Thanks so much Kevin for coming up with the idea and creating the product.
countryboypa31
New member
- Location
- PA
If your looking for a line that your going to be exclusively using with the RW then i would go with a static line. 11mm or larger. My favorite for work positioning so far has been CMC Static-Pro its 11.5mm.
If you are going to be splitting time climbing SRT and Ddrt i would go with either Velocity or All gears Rocket line. Both have low stretch so they are still good for SRT but also work well as Ddrt.
Hope that helps some with rope questions.
If you are going to be splitting time climbing SRT and Ddrt i would go with either Velocity or All gears Rocket line. Both have low stretch so they are still good for SRT but also work well as Ddrt.
Hope that helps some with rope questions.
- Location
- Austin, TX
Sprung22,
I am not sure if 1/2" KMIII is as stiff as 1/2"HTP sterling. I really liked climbing on 11mm KMIII but found it hard to grip when picking up slack. I tried the HTP and, as I wrote in another thread, I find that rope to be too stiff and hard to manage. I've been climbing with Rocket recently, and it is a little bouncy but works pretty well with the wrench.
I am not sure if 1/2" KMIII is as stiff as 1/2"HTP sterling. I really liked climbing on 11mm KMIII but found it hard to grip when picking up slack. I tried the HTP and, as I wrote in another thread, I find that rope to be too stiff and hard to manage. I've been climbing with Rocket recently, and it is a little bouncy but works pretty well with the wrench.
- Location
- Austin, TX
Derrick,
i thought a 11.5 or 12mm rope would be ideal for the rw but couldnt find one at the time so went all the way to 13 instead. Good to know it's out there.
i thought a 11.5 or 12mm rope would be ideal for the rw but couldnt find one at the time so went all the way to 13 instead. Good to know it's out there.
treebing
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Detroit, Mi.
I think there are two styles of rope wrenching. Upper body and footlock style, in which case I think a fatter rope is better. The other style is pantin intensive. I sewed a pantin to one of my boots permanently so it wouldn't flop around. Cost me 10 bucks at a shoe repair shop. I put that boot on when I have long ascents and a lot of open air climbing. I ts nice for work positioning as I always have a foothold available. In the case of pantin based climbing, a thinner line is better. I have a 7/16th km3 for this purpose and i think i may be able to compete with my footlock best for footlocking. Close anyway. I like a supple line but bounce is no good. I have enjoyed climbing on a 9/16th stable braid. But it can be heavier in big trees. With the fat line it's like swinging on vines. A pantin that works on fat lines is due.
