John_KAYS
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Eastern PA
That was the other highlight of the show ...Sitting next to Richard Mumford!!! while watching Eric, Mac, and Donny destroy the demo tree with the Slic-Key. 
rope runner
- Thread starter JakeRiggs
- Start date
Dave Rohach
Branched out member
- Location
- Janesville, WI
I've got a friend in NC, he's a gunsmith, and he's brilliant. If anyone can come up with some sort of idea(concept). I'm waiting to hear back from him.
Dave6390 in WI
Dave6390 in WI
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
Difference for both the initial release and subsequent actions.
In my study I found I was able to switch more of the progressive and non controllable friction to the body, leaving less but more controllable friction at the bird. Some complain that it adds to the friction on ascent. It depends on how it is tended and from where the tending comes from, also making sure that tensions from a knee ascender or such do not pass into the RR.
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
Damn, we had had such a good laugh planing the next video! I really want to do that one, I think it would really highlight a major SRT question. (Not a word John)That was the other highlight of the show ...Sitting next to Richard Mumford!!! while watching Eric, Mac, and Donny destroy the demo tree with the Slic-Key.
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
Steve, just for fun, stick a tool handle or or piece of a painters stir stick between the rope and the body and see what it feels like.
monkeylove
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Roslyn, Pa.
I haven't gone back to the bump yet but as I recall from my prototype bodies there was a clear line where the bump was too big. My guess is that the TS version is a well thought out and discussed size. I may even get one myself just so itmatches my new Royal Blue runner.
Steve Connally
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Suffolk, Virginia
Will do. Next time I work I'll grab a few wooden stir sticks from Starbucks.
Steve Connally
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Suffolk, Virginia
Where do you recommend tending with the bump
monkeylove
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Roslyn, Pa.
That depends on the bump Steve. I always tended from the same spot but my bumps never looked like the current version.
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
Posted this a while ago but basically how I tend with the short e2e tether and thimble.
That's the way I do mine (because of you), but I was going to try Mike's way (at the top of the body) when I get around to it.
Have you ever tried it that way Richard? From a little bit of testing seems like it would work very well (pulling the body up instead of pushing). My only problem is it would raise where you hook into it a little higher than I like.
Steve Connally
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Suffolk, Virginia
Now that we are on tending, I have used a eye to eye that I made myself. One eye to me and 2 eyes, one on either side of the side plates of the pulley. Let's call it a wishbone. I bought a wishbone tether from a guy on facebook who makes them. Pretty nice but the legs of the wishbone are shorter than mine and super tight on the biner/pulley interface. It seems like that effects tending and makes it less effective. Next I got one he makes with longer legs. Too sloppy and all over the place. Lastly I bought a single eye to eye he makes. We can call that a straight e2e. That goes in the middle of the whole contraption. Inside the groove in the friction plate, inboard of the side plates of the pulley. I feel like that is a less effective tending spot also. It seems like it would be ideal but I'm not getting good ascent like my crummy homemade one.
Second, Not very happy with the tending on the suspenders for the MCRS, The chest strap has a tending loop. I tried it and any pressure pulls the entire chest strap down because its only Velcro holding it to the verticle straps. Don't want to stitch it because I would loose adjustability of the suspenders. Tied it in place with throw line. Still not optimum. Small accessory cord on the gear loops of my camelback with a biner in the middle. Worked pretty damn good once the length of the cord was dialed in. Swing dude harness, same deal. Awesome. HUT, not totally happy with it. Seems like the bungee is too long and I end up with a ton of sit back when I'm done ascending. Even if I stretch as much as I can, I still end up in a seated position before the rr engages. Also my rr will "skip along" the rope on ascent. As I'm going up the runner will stick a little then after the HUT reaches maximum stretch it will zip up the line and then do it again like a game of leap frog. Not really liking that but I have only used the HUT with the straight line e2e and due to the orientation of the eyes on the HUT the biner tether interface is in a constant state of twist. When not connected the biner rests flat on my chest. When connected while tending only the spine of the biner is on my chest, therefore a natural twist. Could be a factor.
All this came about loosing weight and saws pulling my saddle down so I wanted to try the suspenders. Then thinking about heavy winter jackets, how would I tend. Also how many lawyers of crap can I put on my upper body to climb. Swing harness, suspenders, camelback. Three layers is nuts. So I started playing around and this is what I have found. Not sure what i'll do in the cold but I was wondering if you all found any similar issues with tether design and location/size. I can post pics or a video explaining if needed.
Second, Not very happy with the tending on the suspenders for the MCRS, The chest strap has a tending loop. I tried it and any pressure pulls the entire chest strap down because its only Velcro holding it to the verticle straps. Don't want to stitch it because I would loose adjustability of the suspenders. Tied it in place with throw line. Still not optimum. Small accessory cord on the gear loops of my camelback with a biner in the middle. Worked pretty damn good once the length of the cord was dialed in. Swing dude harness, same deal. Awesome. HUT, not totally happy with it. Seems like the bungee is too long and I end up with a ton of sit back when I'm done ascending. Even if I stretch as much as I can, I still end up in a seated position before the rr engages. Also my rr will "skip along" the rope on ascent. As I'm going up the runner will stick a little then after the HUT reaches maximum stretch it will zip up the line and then do it again like a game of leap frog. Not really liking that but I have only used the HUT with the straight line e2e and due to the orientation of the eyes on the HUT the biner tether interface is in a constant state of twist. When not connected the biner rests flat on my chest. When connected while tending only the spine of the biner is on my chest, therefore a natural twist. Could be a factor.
All this came about loosing weight and saws pulling my saddle down so I wanted to try the suspenders. Then thinking about heavy winter jackets, how would I tend. Also how many lawyers of crap can I put on my upper body to climb. Swing harness, suspenders, camelback. Three layers is nuts. So I started playing around and this is what I have found. Not sure what i'll do in the cold but I was wondering if you all found any similar issues with tether design and location/size. I can post pics or a video explaining if needed.
I'm having some of the same issues. I use a narrow biner to connect to the Runner, and there's not enough room at the top of the biner for the e2e tether to seat itself next to the side plates. When it's unweighted, the legs slide down the sides of the biner, then when I resume climbing, it pulls the biner up instead of the Runner.
I tried a DMM biner but the same thing happens.
So I went with this method which seems to work much better.
I think Swingdude's chestie works best but I snapped a buckle on it and the replacement buckle I installed slowly works loose. Until I solve that problem I've been using a HUT with a leash snap, but I agree that it's too stretchy, causes the Runner to bound up the line, and allows too much sitback.
I tried a DMM biner but the same thing happens.
So I went with this method which seems to work much better.
I think Swingdude's chestie works best but I snapped a buckle on it and the replacement buckle I installed slowly works loose. Until I solve that problem I've been using a HUT with a leash snap, but I agree that it's too stretchy, causes the Runner to bound up the line, and allows too much sitback.
Steve Connally
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Suffolk, Virginia
Your tether brand is the same as mine.
Worthaug
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- North Cakilaki
Yale 11.7's group are best all around, cougar is awesome too, NE Escalator is sweet static for SRT only.
Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
Dave Rohach
Branched out member
- Location
- Janesville, WI
Hey Jesse, my 1st choice is 11mm Kernmaster, & my 2nd is 11.7mm Prism, there's quite a few that work okay, but I believe Kevin B recommends Kernmaster, from a post he made earlier in this thread. Hope you like using it. Climb safe.
Dave6390 in WI
Dave6390 in WI
monkeylove
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Roslyn, Pa.
I like the Yale 11.7s also. That way if you use your tail for ddrt also your set to go with most normal devices made for it.
