rope runner

I've been wondering how leather would work. Steel rule dies are cheap and then the shapes could just be hammered out relatively speaking. The final smoothing could be left to the end user. Might be a really easy and cheap part to process.
 
However, If I was going to add to the conversation...I would just recommend, while fitting these add ons, to keep them clear of the Slic Pins. You want to be able to easily access the barbs on the one side. It doesn't look like any of the ones presented are too close, but if someone is making some up for themselves I recommend leaving a good clearance around the barbs. just saying....
 
However, If I was going to add to the conversation...I would just recommend, while fitting these add ons, to keep them clear of the Slic Pins. You want to be able to easily access the barbs on the one side. It doesn't look like any of the ones presented are too close, but if someone is making some up for themselves I recommend leaving a good clearance around the barbs. just saying....


The barbed side is why I only went with my predominant runner side.
 
I find very little bounce with the 11.7 ropes, mine and many others rope of choice. Base anchor all day

Agreed, bounce has more to do with your ascent body mechanics. For sure on HTP it's like climbing a cable and feels great but.... I'm typically working off 200' of Tachyon base anchored, there's so much movement from flexing limbs/redirects etc. that bounce is irrelevant, it's all about cleaning up your ascent motion. I've grown to like the give on the 11.7 semi-statics, it's a comfy ride while you're working.
-AJ
 
However, If I was going to add to the conversation...I would just recommend, while fitting these add ons, to keep them clear of the Slic Pins. You want to be able to easily access the barbs on the one side. It doesn't look like any of the ones presented are too close, but if someone is making some up for themselves I recommend leaving a good clearance around the barbs. just saying....

It's interesting, if the add-on can be designed to surround the slic pin releases but still let your fingers in to release them they could be a safety addition, preventing trunk/limb contact from releasing pins. More thought needed, first I need to get myself the latest generation RR.
-AJ
 
The plates should work with every gen RR, Moss. I use the golden gen (yellow/gold)? I'm also trying to mill a piece of steel rod that fits over the slic pin and attaches to your bridge to push the hinged teeth in without using your finger, for when you're wearing gloves, and can't push the teeth in far enough. I'll post some pics when I'm done.


Dave6390 in WI
 
The plates should work with every gen RR, Moss. I use the golden gen (yellow/gold)? I'm also trying to mill a piece of steel rod that fits over the slic pin and attaches to your bridge to push the hinged teeth in without using your finger, for when you're wearing gloves, and can't push the teeth in far enough. I'll post some pics when I'm done.


Dave6390 in WI

Cool, theoretically if you had a recessed pin it would only have to be a single release instead of the current double and it could be taken out using your push-in pin remover.

I have a prototype RR so I'm way way behind, I think it has gotten to the point where I should be trying the latest and greatest.
-AJ
 
The plates should work with every gen RR, Moss. I use the golden gen (yellow/gold)? I'm also trying to mill a piece of steel rod that fits over the slic pin and attaches to your bridge to push the hinged teeth in without using your finger, for when you're wearing gloves, and can't push the teeth in far enough. I'll post some pics when I'm done.


Dave6390 in WI

The reason I was concerned with the clearance is that I designed a tool that Treestuff is working on getting manufactured. I will post the video when I get home.
 

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