rope runner

Kernmaster is a bouncy sob and does not last long with toothed ascenders. I don't think Kevin has ever mentioned it as his go to...
It's ok on the wrench.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
I'm still looking for the post Reed, but if memory serves me right, (Not quite senile, yet) there was a reference to KM. Whether by Kevin, or Gordon, I'm still looking through previous posts. Thanks though, for the vote of confidence. We do however, agree on Yale 11.7mm, above all else. While on the topic, I've been hearing rumors regarding the Prism line discontinuance. I've only heard about it @ ArbTrek, no one else has made any comments regarding the topic. Have you any knowledge regarding this? Thanks. Also, I do know that HTP by Sterling is a big fat,"NO!NO! For the RR & the BDB, although it's extremely durable, it flattens out under direct pressure. Yet, I'm very fond of it w/ the RW.


Dave6390 in WI
 
Dave Rohach said:
I'm still looking for the post Reed, but if memory serves me right, (Not quite senile, yet) there was a reference to KM. Whether by Kevin, or Gordon, I'm still looking through previous posts. Thanks though, for the vote of confidence. We do however, agree on Yale 11.7mm, above all else. While on the topic, I've been hearing rumors regarding the Prism line discontinuance. I've only heard about it @ ArbTrek, no one else has made any comments regarding the topic. Have you any knowledge regarding this? Thanks. Also, I do know that HTP by Sterling is a big fat,"NO!NO! For the RR & the BDB, although it's extremely durable, it flattens out under direct pressure. Yet, I'm very fond of it w/ the RW.


Dave6390 in WI
Click to expand...
Hey Dave, Ive been using HTP 10mm snakebite for RR. I love it!
 
Really? Doesn't it flatten out when you press the rope between your thumb and index finger? Kevin, posted that he designed the RR for KMIII/KMMAX, but I used 11.7mm Yale Prism in Pittsburg, and it worked flawlessly. Also, HomeGrowns son won some 12mm Orange Kernmaster, and he posted that it also worked perfectly. I'm not very comfortable with really thin ropes, even though, I don't grab the rope per say, I just cup my hands to pull the rope towards my chest, to keep me in a vertical position. My SAKA and Pantin do 99% of the lifting. Plus I have several 300' hanks of Kernmaster and HTP, not to mention several dozen other climbing ropes, that I've amassed over the past few years. Thank You for the info, and if possible, keep me apprised of any new variations to lighten my pack weight, when I go deep wood climbing. I may try to head out to the, North 40 on thanksgiving. We're suppose to have a couple of 50*+ days before the next snowstorm!


Dave6390 in WI
 
My gunsmith friend in NC is prototyping several Slic Pin tools for me, as we speak. So I may have a few to get out to several RR climbers. I'll keep the forum posted on our progress! He sounds really confident about duplicating the original tool. I'm getting really excited to see what he comes up with, and how many he actually makes. He custom built an AR-10 for me several months ago, it's the perfect coyote killer! As well as, extremely accurate!


Dave6390 in WI
 
Here was my original version with the plunger, but yours actually makes sense. Kevin, I really like the how that plunger is captured. I never attached my two pieces, and went right onto the spring version instead.
IMG_6662.webp
 
I love the John Kays Slic Tool. When climbing on the Runner, I wouldn't fly without it. The plunger does seem like a good idea. The spring works great. The trick seems to be keeping slack above and below the Runner while popping the Slic Pins out because pressure on the RR parts can make the Pins bind. Seems just a matter of technique.
 
oceans said:
I love the John Kays Slic Tool. When climbing on the Runner, I wouldn't fly without it. The plunger does seem like a good idea. The spring works great. The trick seems to be keeping slack above and below the Runner while popping the Slic Pins out because pressure on the RR parts can make the Pins bind. Seems just a matter of technique.
Click to expand...
That's right, the rope needs to be pulled away from the pin or the spring won't "fire". As soon as the rope pressure is off it works perfectly. Thanks oceans for the feedback!
 
It's on my list of diy projects. I just went back to my own RR body today and finally got the quote for the Aluminum cushion blanks and got the Walnut blank quote also. Just have to figure out if they are worth having cut out.
 
Ordered a bump. We'll see how I like it. I didn't feel good about the limb walk disclaimer though. You cant always keep your tail under you. Guess its just something to be mindful of. Now I have un color coordinated parts. The OCD is gonna make me buy a blue one.
 
My fathers savage 303 was kept on his boat in Fl. Rusty mess exterior but inside the barrel is perfect. Same thing with my savage double barrel 20. All surface rust. Both valuable guns, just need restoration.
 
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