Retrievable doubled rope redirect

[Jman]

Now if you where to use a friction saver along with this you would want both of the big rings on the same side?

 

[TLHamel]

A letter and a word... M Method.

And if the M isn't quite appropriate, double crotch or pull your main TIP and re-crotch. I don't use redirects anymore (only now and then on a removal). I don't like the load forces involved with a redirect, either. Nor do Bret or Jemaine...

 

[tod_k]

There is a simple way that incorporates two rings and a capturing piece like on a rope guide. You use the tail of your climbing line to create a loop.

 

[tod_k]

The forces can be a consern. I still redirect a ton while climbing and I compare it to the redirecting I have done while rigging. It takes a bit of getting used to the tree deflecting. The M system only works well for me while work postitioning or travesing. Too much rope for redirected climbing for me. I would rather just use the standing part of my rope through a nature crotch if posiable. That should off set any force conserns.

 

[whataview]

Blakes hitch with your tail, quick and easy.

 

[Rookieclimber]

I'm with what a view on this one, and it is the only time I EVER use a blakes.

 

[No_Bivy]

A second tie in and a re-direct are two different beasts....To me, a re-direct reduces the "whip" potential. Retrieval is mostly a comp thingy....

 

[Jman]

Ya I'm happy with removal from the ground. So I'll be trying out the above pictures in the next few weeks. I almost bought a double pulley but didn't because of having to go and get it everytime i redireted.

 

[No_Bivy]

they are worth it.....buy one

 

[Mahk_Adams]

From Daniel Martinez and myself.

Basically a ring-n-ring FS.

Push a bight of the line through the small ring...

 

[Mahk_Adams]

...push another bight through the first...

 

[Mahk_Adams]

...to create a slip knot. Make sure that the second bight is fairly long.

 

[Mahk_Adams]

Tighten the slip knot. Clip on a 'biner, put a double sheave micro pulley (the ISC works much better than the CMI)on the legs of the climbing line and clip the micro pulley on the biner. Place the 'biner so that it is away from the ring.

 

[Mahk_Adams]

Tie the end of the line (or a second line) to the big ring before leaving. Can be removed from the ground or in the tree.

The weight of the climber keeps the slip knot tight.

 

[Mahk_Adams]

To retrieve pull on the line attached to the big ring. The slip knot comes undone and the FS comes off the branch and down to the climber.

We've tried releasing this with the climber hanging on the line but couldn't do it. The 1/2 inch line barely fits through the small ring and the weight of the climber cinches the whole thing tight.

 

[NickfromWI]

Mahk- great pics! I spent some time a while back trying to do a similar type of redirect using a biner and one of my favorite knots- the wagoneers hitch (or something like that). I couldn't come up with something good enough to climb on that was still quick release.

I can see me using this one!

love
nick

 

[NickfromWI]

You know....not that you would actually do this...but if you spliced a ring into the tail of your climbing line, you'd never have to haul around the extra friction saver to accomplish this redirect.

Hmmmm.....

love
nick

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Retrievable is so that the climber can get the redi back in mid-climb in order to use it again later on. A removable redi would come out at the end of the climb.

Mahk's setup will look a lot like Nick's using a snap shackle instead of a slipknot I think.

Setting up and retrieving redis has the potential for taking more energy and complicated rigging than other, simpler, options. There will be times though when knowing a solution will make the job easier or safer. Redis should be used more to reduce the possibility of climbers taking long swings. Too often I see climbers with long runouts in their climbs. they wouldn't fall but the smack into a branch or trunk from a slip could be as deadly or painful.

using the tail of the climbing rope does present some caveats. First, it shortens the rope making a single pitch ground descent cumbersome in case of an emergency. second, the two rope ends create a U between them that could act like a speedline for dropped limbs. Awareness needs to be higher using this method of double rope technique.

No Bivy...setting a retrievable redi with SRT is SUPER simple...but that's for another thread Let me get some pictures of it...stay tuned.

 

[treesandsurf]

Thanks for the pics, Mahk.

jp

 

[Gerald_Beranek]

Mahk, Why is the ISC a better double pulley over the CMI?