Hitch Hiker

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...I'll blacken the stitches with a marker.
-AJ

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Why does this not surprise me.
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Beautiful work AJ.

Dave
 
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Yes, a thing of beauty, Moss!

Hand stitched or machine? Looks as though it could be either. That must be a tough pass into NE Tech by hand...

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Thanks guys, every once in a while I get something right. It's hand stitched with a sewing awl (Speedy Stitcher), it's not a problem getting the needle through.
-AJ
 
Tested out the sewn tether loop tonight, most excellent. One problem, when the rope is slacked the eye of the tether loop slipped down on the non-gate side of the carabiner. I put a rubber keeper on that side, solved it.

Here's a photo, umm... don't freak out about the aluminum biner ;-) Just testing it out to see how much wear I'll see in a few climbs. Thinking about it further... there are 3 friction areas, the hitch, the steel dog bone and the carabiner at the bottom. It's not like the carabiner is taking the full friction load. Anyway, I'm not advocating replacing the steel carabiner, just doing some testing to try and determine how quickly it will wear.

The keeper works, it's low so I can move everything to the right to have enough room to open the gate and clip in to my bridge ring:
8254265852_a420e5599c_z.jpg


-AJ
 
I would be curious to see your thoughts are on the aluminum carabiner wear. I have tried it out and it seems not wear as much as I thought. I ran it about 2 weeks straight. The weight trade-off is considerable.

Donny
 
Moss, I would not be as concerned about the wear from the rope as much as the wear from the tool steel side plates slicing into the relatively soft aluminum and weakening it. There is a huge amount of wear in that contact point which is why we had to make them with tool steel. We tried 7075 aluminum and stainless but they were both way too soft......
 
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Moss, I would not be as concerned about the wear from the rope as much as the wear from the tool steel side plates slicing into the relatively soft aluminum and weakening it. There is a huge amount of wear in that contact point which is why we had to make them with tool steel. We tried 7075 aluminum and stainless but they were both way too soft......

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Definitely, Drew Bristow on fb stated something to the effect of "One DMM oval retired after a single climb" due to contact with the steel edges. To which I replied "Duh". I was so focused on the idea of rope wear on the carabiner that I completely disregarded the more obvious and relevant problem of the steel edges. Thanks for the comments Paul!
-AJ
 
Jimmy,

The HH can tend slack pretty smoothly. It isn't quite like with a HitchClimber pulley (I don't have or use a Wrench), but is more similar to the Unicender.

Personally I sacrifice a bit of tending smoothness to gain that insta-grab response by tying a very tight hitch.

It meets and exceeds my expectations for ease of tending.

--

Moss, I like your strap a
lot, I used the Maxim 5mm cord as well. I love that stuff, its strong, stiff, durable, and really thin. I used black electrical tape to make mine and as such was able to make the eyes very tight. As a result of the tapes inherent flexibility when you squeeze the biner through the eyes they grab it nice and tight and it never rotates or slips.
 
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Paul- any reason why the CT biner is the on the website and not the petzl oxan? Is it lighter, different profile?
cheers

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OK so back in March I spent a lot of time researching biners. I needed a steel oval biner that was symmetrical. I found one by DMM but it didnt have a clean nose and was smaller and the Petzl Oxan. I purchased 100 Oxans and was content with that choice. However in June I ordered another 100 and after 3 months was told they werent available and nor would they be in the forseeable future. I happened to read a post here on the Buzz about CT biners and went to the site and found the Pillar Steel. Got some samples and loved it. Smoother action than the Petzl, wider gate and lighter to boot. Havent looked back since so CTs are here to stay....

As some of you may have noticed Im not a weight watcher and a few extra ounces doesnt bother me as much as a safer product. Wraptors are over built also but we havent had a failure yet!
 
Jimmy -

As to comparing the HH & RW {don't have a UNI}, it is very difficult. They both have very similar 'feel' when working. It all boils down to your personal style.

The HH is heavier but more compact. So far, it seems, the HH is more hitch sensitive until dial-in. To me, the HH is a bit more 'fiddly' to install & remove. And, you have to add (make) a very custom tending loop. Dave has made the coolest one, so far. I imagine Paul will address that issue.

The RW (with stiffy) is lighter but takes up more space on the rope and in the kit (because of stiffy). The RW is more hitch friendly (more options). The RW is slightly easier to install & remove. You also have to add a tending loop but it's easier to make.

Price is almost the same when you include any extra stuff required to be fully operational.

They are both wonder products - true advancements to the industry.

Your only choice is to buy three of each and decide which best suites your personal style.
 
Who cares how much it weighs? The hitch holds the darn thing on the rope Its not like you are carrying it around.

As for the Wraptor, it pulls you up the rope, not the other way around. besides if it was any lighter it would be hard to lower it through the tree on 1/2" line.
 
I already have the uni and wrenches,just curious .I like the uni alot but dont like the wear issues i experienced.I like the new wrench with the stiff tether alot better than the older one.
 
That wasnt a response to your comment at all Jack. It seems to be a big issue for some folks though, and it just doesnt make sense to me.

edit: re-reading it my 'who cares' sounds a bit hostile. I didnt mean it that way!
 

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