Hitch Hiker

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... But, Dave, I still like the loop you made ... it would be a simple stamping as a production product.
The loop is the only thing missing on the production HH.
I couldn't find the hoof pads locally ... wonder if some gaff straps would work...

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Thanks, Jack. I am actually a bit surprised on how much I like having the poly loop. It is the first thing my hand makes contact with when grabbing the HH for adjustment. So even when not clipped into, for ascent, it maintains proper carabiner alignment and ensures that the carabiner is the first part to move.

I think you could make one out any similar material, even leather, but it is the combination of strength, flexibility, slipperiness of the material, strong grip on the carabiner and weather proofness that makes this horse poly loop work so well.

Dave
 
It doesn't seem critical. I definitely would not make it repeatable. If anything you are try to avoid a merely uncomfortable scenario.



I do not see any real hazard.

I like Tonys design, the thing to watch for is the cable getting sucked on between the HH and the biner .
 
Very nice Tony, I like it!

One thing that I did notice in your first picture is the length of your hitch. As you probably know, with the HH, the shorter the cord the better.

As Paul has said, when setting your hitch, put your full weight on the carabiner and measure the distance from the fourth wrap of the hitch to the top of the Hitchhiker. This distance should be 2” or less.
 
Anyone else find that 2" hitch distance difficult to achieve. I tie the stopper sit/bounce and I got more than 2" ... take out the slack ... sit/bounce <u>still</u> got more than 2" ... ?whatup?

I'm only at 200# climb weight. It still works ... if anything it's a little too grabby.

Just want to hear some other experiences ...

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.
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FWIW: I did try a Michoacan with the HH ... sweet ... don't tell Paul ... LOL!
 
I feel that as long as the hitch grabs reliably and predictably, it's all good. I sure can't achieve the 2" suggested, though it's grabbing as it should, every time. I'm actually used to tending my hitch over the years of experimentation of cordage compatibility in DdRT, and I find I'm stopping myself from tending as it isn't necessary now.
 
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Tony, you did a real clean job on that loop. My initial thought though is that it looks a little long. Just make sure that it can't snag the top of the HH and get lodged there.

David

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Thanks Dave, I did take notice after I made the length but on the climb from my shed roof anchor it did fall short of the top of the HH by about 1/2" I have a job today so I'll keep a watch on it. The reason it ended up that length is so I don't have to feed the biner through both loops when removing (they are swagged reasonably tight around the biner). I can simply remove the left side cable around the biner and then rotate the biner through the HH leaving the right side still attached in place just below the gate pivot.

I like the poly type idea Dave but can't readily source any appropriate material at present.

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Very nice Tony, I like it!

One thing that I did notice in your first picture is the length of your hitch. As you probably know, with the HH, the shorter the cord the better.

As Paul has said, when setting your hitch, put your full weight on the carabiner and measure the distance from the fourth wrap of the hitch to the top of the Hitchhiker. This distance should be 2” or less.

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Hi Chris,

I think the hitch is still settling as its only been TDS a dozen times and climbed on for no more than an hour. I cut it back a little last night thinking that it was setting but as you point out it is still a little long. I'll give it a good run today and rain it in.
Thanks for looking out.

G'day Jack &amp; Oceans,

I've had little usage of mine but have TD&amp;S the hitch with the climb line bent over while tying to try and achieve the 2" max. Yet as Jack suggests a couple of bounces and its max'd out. I just put it down to "breaking in". I'll let you know after today if it gets any better.
 
Here's my advancer loop in progress. It's NE Ropes tech cord pulled through tubular webbing. At the center bend in the loop there's only one thickness of the tech cord, a little too stiff with two cord widths through the bend. The tail forming the eye is inserted about 2" inside each side of the webbing cover. Next step is to stitch it through the webbing to secure the eyes. Probably way too much trouble but it will be strong, light and friendly to the surfaces of the HH.

8251364208_80c446716a_c.jpg


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-AJ
 
Wow! Beautiful work, Moss. You guys are taking loop making to a hole new level.

Dave
 
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Wow! Beautiful work, Moss. You guys are taking loop making to a hole new level.

Dave

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Thanks, just riffing on the excellent loops you guys have been posting. It'll get a little more ugly when I stitch it ;-)
-AJ
 
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Anyone else find that 2" hitch distance difficult to achieve. I tie the stopper sit/bounce and I got more than 2" ... take out the slack ... sit/bounce <u>still</u> got more than 2" ... ?whatup?...

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It gets better with use and as the hitch cord starts taking a shape set. It also helps to hold onto the stopper knot tail and role it tight before trying to set things with your weight.

That hitch tightness recommendation is there, I believe, to give users a safe starting point. Small changes in it's length will make noticeable changes in how it performs. This is worth playing around with once you become familiar with how this tool works.

Thick, soft ropes like Imori and Vortex are good safe and forgiving ropes for getting started.

Dave
 
Mine was grabby as hell today. I am using Tachyon and today was running Ddrt. The temp was about 37, if it matters. The Oxan was holding way more than normal, so much that when it did release, I dropped a foot or so. Really bad day for my back after hrs of that. I am going to try and change a thing or two for tomorrow to try to find that smooth release again. Same temps here tomorrow, so we'll see.
 
Hmmm...I saw a high of 48 for tomorrow. Oh, well.
tongue.gif


So, I'm thinking that a life support rating on the biner bridge might not be a bad idea if it's used for an attachment point to an ascender in certain configurations. I'll stick with mine, though it's not as sexy as everyone else'.
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Had a good go today, really impressed with the HH. Dave, you were correct the tether loop was to long. Whilst it never got hooked on top potentially it could so I made a shorter one and a second "choked" model. I'll take some pics shortly. The shorter one performed faultlessly although I am going to place a couple of poly washers against the HH just for security.
Moss, real nice job, you can't stitch the cord without the cover and then slip it over the eye and have "hidden" stitching? You've raised the bar Moss!
I shortened my hitch some more yet found it crept back out to the max again. I taken on board Dave's comment about setting shape and will just keep the adjustment up.
 
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Moss, real nice job, you can't stitch the cord without the cover and then slip it over the eye and have "hidden" stitching? You've raised the bar Moss!

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He IS the bar! I can't keep track of all his great work.

Tony, I like your idea of protective washers, though I hope you don't need to put the system on &amp; off the line too often during a climb. If I understand you, it sounds like a good deal of pieces to line up on the biner.

Cre, enjoy that temp until the rain shows up this afternoon!
 
Hello,

I'm hoping this is the right place for my H.H. question.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSHt_gijntM&amp;feature=youtu.be

I found the above excellant video demonstating the HH. But had a question.

What is the climber using on his left leg?

He is using a pantin on his right. On his left side he runs a hand tether from his saddle somewhere and then runs a foot loop to his saddle also from below.

What kind of set up is he using on his left side, I can't get a clear view? Looks like he clips in using a biner from below and also clips into the same spot from his left hand tether or sling.

Thanks
 
Well ... that'd be me. Here's a link to the original post.

The foot loop is a simple BlueWater 3ft loop sling binered to the saddle ring (not the HH). The hand loop is a BlueWater 2ft loop sling girthed to the advancing wire loop on HH.

The system is for short simple HH ascents with minimal gear. For longer ascents I use a more gear intensive system like this link. It's shown with the RW but works the same with the HH.

Both systems work quite well for my purposes, in spite of reservations by some others. I plan to custom splice both loops when all the lengths and details are sorted out and tested.

Many like the technique ... some don't ... such is the way of things ... use at your own risks.

I really do appreciate the interest and your "excellent video" comment!

Thanks,
Jack
 
Here it is stitched. The doubled tech cord is such a tight fit it would be a tough trick to pre-stitch and slide it in the cover, but... worth a try.

25059_10200204572981528_648367207_n.jpg


I'll blacken the stitches with a marker.
-AJ
 
Yes, a thing of beauty, Moss!

Hand stitched or machine? Looks as though it could be either. That must be a tough pass into NE Tech by hand...
 
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