Hitch Hiker

Right now!

Seriously though, I'm not sure that I do enough SRT to give a worthwhile opinion to people who do it most of the time.

When I do SRT I use the HH. I love that I can switch back and forth if need be. I also prefer it for removals too because you can stuff your hitch right up to the trunk to limit slack.

As of right now though I'd rate my SRT limbwalking skills as poor so I don't use it when I'm working a tree with a wide canopy. I mean legit long walks not just stuff within 10 feet of the trunk. For trees with a limited spread SRT and the HH are ideal for me. My limbwalks are something I need to work on on my own time so for the big trees it's drt for me.

I know it's been said before but it's worth saying again that you really need to keep your hitch close to the HH. I tie mine and weight it with a few bounces before I take some more slack out. As long as the hitch is within a couple inches of the HH after it's set it's golden.
 
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I know it's been said before but it's worth saying again that you really need to keep your hitch close to the HH. I tie mine and weight it with a few bounces before I take some more slack out. As long as the hitch is within a couple inches of the HH after it's set it's golden.

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This is very true and definitely worth remembering.
 
I just read a great review on WesSpur.

http://wesspur.com/items/asc184.html

Review by: Jamz Luce

“Every once in a while along comes a new arborist tool you gotta have. I have had the opportunity to use the Hitch Hiker for a few weeks. SRT access and working the tree on SRT have been game changers in tree work for many of us. I have used my Unicender and a Rope Wrench 2+ years. The Uni allowed new ways to work in trees. The Rope Wrench took that to a whole new level with its predictable smooth handling. The Hitch Hiker is a big step forward with many advantages over the Wrench.

With the Hitch Hiker, the mechanical friction is added below the friction cord making the whole setup more compact. The design is simple and solid. The release is smooth and the grab on the line secure. The hitch is easy to tend even when the line is only lightly loaded. This is a big advantage over the Wrench. The Hitchhiker works sweet when working a 3:1 off the single line. Working the Wrench you must take it out of the system to work on the dynamic 3:1.

I used HR for the friction hitch tied in a VT with 4 wraps on top with 3 crosses. This is on more wrap than I use on a DRT. The design of Hitchhiker makes breaking the friction hitch super easy and smooth. It doesn't seem to jam tight. The HH must be held in place to ascend efficiently. Same idea as using a Croll or Rope Wrench. The difference is you need to hold the place where it attaches to the saddle in place not the HH itself. When you get it dialed it is super smooth on ascent yet super secure to hold you when needed. Works great in long ascents with frog style systems plus gives you a great way to work or descend. Another nice application is to use it when you choke off a single line on a spar pole . Helps with work positioning and provides a second tie in that can be used to descend.

The Hitchhiker is more expensive than a Rope Wrench, but you don't need to add any parts to use it, and it comes with a hitch cord and biner. The carabineer is an integral part of the design that attaches to the climber, works as the fairlead and adds to the mechanical friction below the hitch. The construction of the unit is bomber. The unit I used had a finned base for dissipating heat of descent. The friction hitch cord length is easy to adjust due to the way it attaches to the top bar of unit. It worked smoothly on a variety of lines from 10 mm to 13 mm.

SRT tools are evolving fast these days. For now the Hitchhiker is a great choice.”

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The HitchHikers are still available through RopeTek but are also on sale at WesSpur. How cool!
 
I have been using mine for the past few days. I like not having anything above the hitch and I find it is much easier to tune up a hitch since you are relying on both the HH and hitch. On the wrench I had a hard time setting up a hitch that would release well but grab readily.I dont like how heavy it is though its clunky compared to my wrench set up and does not tend slack nearly as smooth.

Also I dont know if its just me but it seemed to tear my rope up considerably faster. I had a brand new hank of tachyon and within the first few short descents it was fuzzed up. I have never had that happen before. I am assuming it is just the break in of the HH and wearing the metal down smooth. I like both the HH and wrench equally at this point Im not sure which is better yet. I find advantages and disadvantages to each.
 
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...Also I dont know if its just me but it seemed to tear my rope up considerably faster. I had a brand new hank of tachyon and within the first few short descents it was fuzzed up. I have never had that happen before. I am assuming it is just the break in of the HH and wearing the metal down smooth...

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Do a careful check that all your equipment is as it should be. There is nothing on the Hitch Hiker that needs to wear-in so its use should not increase rope fuzz more than any other friction device.

It is also not uncommon for new ropes show some initial fuzzing when first put into use.

David
 
My ropes dont show any wear at all since using the HH, I just got a new hank of Poison Ivy and it still looks fresh out the bag.
 
I would have thought the same but the other section of tachyon I have from the same spool still looks new after using it with the wrench for the past couple months. Im sure it wasnt anything major I had just never seen my ropes wear in that fast on any other system. Paul sent me a pm about it. I have a hank of bluemoon here I am going to try out and see how that fairs. Maybe it was just the rope.
 
OK, Paul ... had a small removal and a light prune, today and nice weather. So, I got a chance to do a short, un-edited vid of the Hitch Hiker Rope Walker (HHRW):

Single Line Rope Walker: {quick unedited video}
- Hitch Hiker with Hand Sling girthed to wire loop formed on HH Biner
- Foot ascender {CMI used - Pantin should work the same}
- Foot Sling attached to saddle ring
- Hitch = 3/8x30" Beeline, Tied per instructions

Here's a link to a short unedited video:
http://youtu.be/DSHt_gijntM
 
Good stuff, Jack.
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(rw vid too)

I gotta get me one of those fancy helmet cam you youngsters play around with!
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I personally tie my HH hitch WAY shorter but as long as that bites ok for you you're good to go.
 
My HH arrived in the mail today, all the way across the Pacific. Had a rec climb on it tonight for an hour and was impressed. I thought the hitch would be harder to break to get moving but not so. I look forward to further use and evaluation.

Thanks Paul/Sam for getting across to me, great service.
 
My crack at a ascending loop. Works well, will have to see if it requires poly washers against the HH when giving it a descent ascent. With either an over shoulder or neck lanyard the hitch sets high with little sit back (no need to phsyically set the hitch). Some thing I had a bit of trouble with the RW.
 

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Tony, you did a real clean job on that loop. My initial thought though is that it looks a little long. Just make sure that it can't snag the top of the HH and get lodged there.

David
 
Nice, Tony. It seems that should be relatively gentle to the HH body and finish. I've been using a NE Tech Cord 5mm with a fisherman's hitch on each end. Slick enough!

Nick, I remember you posting yours and stating that you liked the idea of it breaking away under enough tension. Are you still thinking this is necessary? When I tend my Rope Wrench, I use the lanyard-over-shoulder method and everything in the system is rated. Never thought about the need for it to break away since when I load up the climbing system (HH or RW) there's enough sit-back for the tending system to loosen up. Thoughts?
 
Tony's wire loop is easier to make since I got the stuff. But, Dave, I still like the loop you made ... it would be a simple stamping as a production product.
The loop is the only thing missing on the production HH.

I couldn't find the hoof pads locally ... wonder if some gaff straps would work.

Meh ... I'll copy Tony's design ...
 
O, good reminder ... gotta think about that breakaway ... begs the question: How strong/weak to make the breakaway and how to make it repeatable?
 
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