Hitch Hiker

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When you setup a RADS for returning from a limbwalk, etc. you only have 2:1...think it through, you'll see that it isn't 3:1.

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Not to nit pick Tom but you're wrong and it is a true 3:1. Laying that setup on the table it would be easy to mistake for a 2:1 with the top pulley merely acting as a redirect of force. What truly matters is how much of the standing end of the rope passes the lower pulley (or hitch hiker in this case) in relation to how far it moves. Do a little experiment with cordlette and you will see that a 'climber' has to pull 3 times the amount of rope as vertical height gained.

Looking forward to trying this tool. Limbwalk returns has always been the major drawback I've encountered with working srt. Some mechanical advantage seems to be the only way to do it smoothly.
 
It feels like a 3:1 not a 2:1. Set it up and try it, its definitely more MA than a DRT system which is 2:1.

I dont want to start an argument on mechanical advantage, you can start a different thread if you wish. I think though that Luke has a typo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1p-xuZNq5g

It is a 2:1 from the ground, but as the climber/load if you pull on that down side you move up the line you are pulling and the additional 2 parts.

The setup I demonstrated and a RADS setup, to a climber is a 3:1 setup

/Derail
 
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It feels like a 3:1 not a 2:1. Set it up and try it, its definitely more MA than a DRT system which is 2:1...

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You are correct and all anyone needs for proof is to get their noses out of books and charts and set it up and feel it.
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On the tending straps, for improving the Hitch Hiker in a walker/frog type ascent, care needs to be taken that the material and length do not interfere with the normal function. With small diameter material pulling at the awkward angles where the carabiner meets the body of the HH, it is easy to get some jamming into the slots. But most important is that the tether not be long enough to catch the upper part of the HH and in doing so preventing the carabiner from doing its job. I am finding 5 1/2" to 6" eye-to-eye length works for me.
So far, I have had the best luck with stiff, flat, leather-like material.

Dave
 
thanks for posting my vid Nick. the coathanger has banged up the aluminium a bit, but a lot of that was from me bending and fooling with it while it was in place. i am going to try a stiffened cord, maybe insert the hanger into a piece of parachute cord. i would love to see V2 incorporate a connection point for drt, but like a few said, it isnt necessary.
 
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Moss, The coat hanger seems to have beat Jamie's HH up pretty badly. A piece of throwline will work into the slots fouling the HH function. I used a piece of 5mm cord with the ends taped into tight eyes.

I originally tried some mechanics wire like Jamie did with the coat hanger, but the cord is a better solution IMO.

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Makes sense. Kind of a mini-stiffy solution so-to-speak. Thanks!
-AJ

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This works really well. It is cut from a 1/8" piece of extremely tough polyurethane from a horse hoof pad.

David

HHwithstrap-1.jpg
 
That looks good, David. Is there any chance the 'strap' could get caught in the lower slot and prevent the 'biner from grabbing the rope?
 
No,Jack. This poly stuff has just the right combination stiffness and flexibility. Also the section that the carabiner goes through is 1 1/4" wide and somewhat slick on the inside so it slides well on the HH side plates.

David
 
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Looking good as usual, Dave. Figures I made a stainless trap for my HH this morning and I come in to find this post!
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Happy Thanksgiving gentlemen!

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Pictures!!
 
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Pictures!!

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I'm on my phone so hopefully this picture isn't too big. If it is I'll resize when I get to a comp. My clip is just like Jamie's just stainless so it's pretty ridged. I think Dave's will treat the hh better cosmetically over time and doesn't run the risk of getting caught in the lower slot. I don't think mine will get caught but I am keeping and eye on it. It's really small and so far I like it.

3C3F66A7-0198-4FC0-BF0D-128A3F85E0F0-6025-00000825F426EE73.jpg
 

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