Hitch hiker/2/x thread

[Jehinten]

The HHx shackle doesn't fit the HH2 or the HH1, because it won't clear the round head screws. I replaced the screws in my HH2 with flatheads, and I made the holster with thinner guage material so I could fit a quickie on it. However, the HHx doesn't require a holster. It can be tended from the bridge ring.

I no longer run the HH2 but the bridge ring is how I tended it when I did. I tried homemade tenders and the holster. I found the bridge ring worked best without a pulley underneath, when the hitch was properly set.

 

[Christrees]

Anybody have a 5ft piece of marlow viper they can spar? Been wanting to try it out.

 

[Christrees]

Hey guys..i was wondering can anybody explain how to tie the xt on the hitchhiker? Ive only heard people talking about it. Something like tying the original hitch hiker hitch then bang it up.? Lol idk. But thanks id appreciate it.

 

[dogwood]

I don't know what you call this hitch, I know Yoyoman has a name for it, but I call it the Fandango, only because I think it sounds cool. It works great for me every time. First pass the hitchcord around the back of the climbing line then bring it around and poke it under then over itself, then make your wraps. I'm a lefty so my wraps are clockwise, you righty guys wrap counter clockwise. Then bring it down and pass through the bone as usual.

 

[Brocky]

It’s a 4-2 VT with the first braid being a twist rather than just crossing each other. It should be turned 180 degrees from what is shown for the dogbone to be drawn towards the rope.
The previous hitch shown is the Knut H.

 

[Cereal_Killer]

View attachment 73259

Is that Yale confetti? Where on earth did you score it?! I've looked and looked and looked.

 

[DSMc]

... It should be turned 180 degrees from what is shown for the dogbone to be drawn towards the rope...

No, it shouldn't.

 

[dogwood]

I think that using a pulley under the HHX might not be possible?

There really isn't any need for a pulley underneath. It tends great without one.

 

[dogwood]

Is that Yale confetti? Where on earth did you score it?! I've looked and looked and looked.

Yes it is Confetti. I think it's been about four years, but as soon as Nick Araya announced he was doing the project, I wanted in, so I got 200'.

 

[Cereal_Killer]

Yes it is Confetti. I think it's been about four years, but as soon as Nick Araya announced he was doing the project, I wanted in, so I got 200'.

Didn't know the story behind it, figured it was a special run, who was the vendor when it was made?

 

[Christrees]

View attachment 73259 I don't know what you call this hitch, I know Yoyoman has a name for it, but I call it the Fandango, only because I think it sounds cool. It works great for me every time. First pass the hitchcord around the back of the climbing line then bring it around and poke it under then over itself, then make your wraps. I'm a lefty so my wraps are clockwise, you righty guys wrap counter clockwise. Then bring it down and pass through the bone as usual.

Oh nice i like that. And i love that fucking rope. Awsome. But thats alot like the knute h. But with a twist. I like it. I check it out. Thanks

 

[Christrees]

It’s a 4-2 VT with the first braid being a twist rather than just crossing each other. It should be turned 180 degrees from what is shown for the dogbone to be drawn towards the rope.
The previous hitch shown is the Knut H.
View attachment 73260

Yeah thats what i ment the vt. Alright thanks. Ill try it.

 

[rico]

Leave it to a bunch of tree nerds to take one of the most simple and effective devices on the planet and fuck it up with overcomplicated hitches with WAY TOO many wraps. Do yourselves a favor and run a 3 or 4 wrap, properly dressed HH hitch. Learn how to run this tool as it was intended and you will be rewarded with lightning fast, world class performance and near friction free tending...

 

[Brocky]

No, it shouldn't.

Here it is 180 from my previous picture, the bottom braid in front is desirable on the HH hitch and it isn’t on this hitch?

 

[DSMc]

It has nothing to do with the bottom braid. It's about the orientation of the dogbone.

 

[dogwood]

Didn't know the story behind it, figured it was a special run, who was the vendor when it was made?

Nick got together with Jamie at Yale Cordage and they put it together.

 

[Njdelaney]

But putting the bottom crossover on the opposite side of the rope changes the orientation so @Brocky is correct.

 

[Christrees]

Leave it to a bunch of tree nerds to take one of the most simple and effective devices on the planet and fuck it up with overcomplicated hitches with WAY TOO many wraps. Do yourselves a favor and run a 3 or 4 wrap, properly dressed HH hitch. Learn how to run this tool as it was intended and you will be rewarded with lightning fast, world class performance and near friction free tending...

Or you could experiment..try new things. Maybe create or own hitch. Better than any other. The day someone tells me how to run my gear. Is the day they take over my climbing. And that aint for another 20 years. But thanks anyway.

But if you would have said this another way....maybe id consider it.

 

[Brocky]

Yes, we went through this awhile back when I mistakening claimed the braid was better in the back on the HH hitch, found out the dogbone didn’t generate much friction because it wasn’t being pulled into the rope, more work to release the hitch with only the carabiner working. It slid up easier but the original seems to be the best, so far.
Maybe my shenanigans in the past has led Dave to believe I’m using something other than stoppers in the dogbone?

 

[DSMc]

Look at the orientation of the dogbone in these two pictures. The first one (on the left) is correct, the second one is not.

The dogbone needs to be 90° to the slot in order to keep it in a perpendicular orientation to the HH body. Running it in basically the removal position, is inviting the possibility of a jam.