Descending

Try a blue streak split tail tying a 2 and 1 taught line on velocity. As with any taughtline you need to tend and crack the knot but it has worked well for me for a couuple of months.
 
Bull, try the new OP with spliced eyes on either end if you're using a HitchClimber with your climb line.

OP has good heat properties and the stuff last a long time.
 
using e2e would be a collosal waste of money. and not for nothing but i haven't used the HC for crane work in a long time. not really good for it. 2 biners is a better setup on the crane.


and bullie. your silence regarding the best crane crew around is very reassuring.

you boys want to see some crane work!?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAwKsGBvJ4Q
 
OD, You're a big guy, right? How much do you weigh with all your gear on?

Hitches were never intended for lowering heavy loads at high rates of speed. This is why we use bollards to lower wood and limbs. Using the right tool for the required job is essential for safe, long term repeatable performance.

The methods being employed in your crane operations are going beyond the practical expectations of a doubled line hitch setup. Something needs to be incorporated to take the work load off the hitch. I'm thinking possibly a purpose built bollard as a TIP instead of a pulley, or something similar.

But bottom line, is you have to be able and willing to change, possibly significantly, to achieve the results you are looking for.

Dave
 
dave i think my total weight wouldn't be much more than a fat guy on the line. i weigh 230ish. the saw i run is a 460mag and on the other hip is a rope bag with 200ft of rope. that about 275ish lbs, no?

we've had this little chat before i think. remember when i was asking you about the uni? but i think that will burn up too quick as well.

i believe that in order for production crane work to continue on one must be willing to spend some loot on rope and prussic cord. something has to give in that regards.....

i respect your oponion though sir. so where would you add this bollard to the system? the climb line goes through a shackle and masterlink above the ball.
 
OD

Not my style to get into a who's best pissing match on the net, sorry bro. Everyone has their own style and their own perception of what makes them the best. Its all about safety and profit, IMO. If you have those two in large quantities, efficiency comes naturally.



Loads of good info in this thread, in the short term a different style hitch, and cord combo will be tried. Long term will be a few methods and tools described here.
 
How about we say one large tree and 5 twigs removed in what time did it say 2-3 hours. Still done at a very good rate. Large landing, trees small enough to pick all but what 1 or 2 tree's tops in one cut. Thought I seen one done whole in one cut.? Wood left on site, for a Log truck I suppose?

Really nice vid. though.
 
[ QUOTE ]
using e2e would be a collosal waste of money. and not for nothing but i haven't used the HC for crane work in a long time. not really good for it. 2 biners is a better setup on the crane.


and bullie. your silence regarding the best crane crew around is very reassuring.

you boys want to see some crane work!?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAwKsGBvJ4Q

[/ QUOTE ]

I was feeling critical at first and picked out the movement of the top at 56 seconds, but as the video went on I really began to like it.

Good job on the video and it that was good production.

We just bust your chops around here if you are new and you boast.

In the end, that was pretty cool.
 
[ QUOTE ]

The methods being employed in your crane operations are going beyond the practical expectations of a doubled line hitch setup. Something needs to be incorporated to take the work load off the hitch. I'm thinking possibly a purpose built bollard as a TIP instead of a pulley, or something similar.

[/ QUOTE ]
Agreed, on the hitch not being able to really stand up to the purpose.
The purposed bollard up top can add friction, but adding that variable will affect the control of your speed. It has to. Maybe for the better, maybe not.




[/ QUOTE ]But bottom line, is you have to be able and willing to change, possibly significantly, to achieve the results you are looking for.

Dave

[/ QUOTE ]

Again, if you keep doing what you're doing, the result won't change. You can use every hitch in the book, it's still a hitch.


There are three ways you can go about it, SRT has been ruled out. Twin line DbRT has been poo-poo'd. SO you're locked into 2:1 methods, though the hitch has been ruled out. ALL YOU HAVE LEFT as options are a mechanical device replacing a hitch in a 2:1 system.

In 2:1, you have twice the length of rope running through your friction control, DOUBLE, 100% more than a 1:1 system. As much as I can appreciate hoisting something upward with a 2:1 mechanical advantage, lowering oneself is a whole 'nother thing. Hoisting a weight, gravity is your opponent. Lowering yourself, gravity is your friend. You don't need a 2:1 system for that. It's just not necessary. So as Dave says,

[/ QUOTE ]But bottom line, is you have to be able and willing to change, possibly significantly, to achieve the results you are looking for.

Dave

[/ QUOTE ]
 
Boston, as Ron and DSMC say, for a 2:1 system where you're simply replacing a hitch for a device, the Petzl Rig
or the Petzl I'D is worthy of a try. You have friction ( and the heat produced) shared by the shackle at the tie-in point and the rest taken up by the device. You also have the double amount of line passing through the device, which is the robber of the speed you desire, but a safe system that should last.

Steel wear surfaces encased by an aluminum shell should keep aluminum oxide off your ropes. Anti-panic feature. You should be able to go at least as fast as before (it's still a 2:1 system), only no replacement of hitch cords.
 
That's what I'm thinking!

Just bear in mind the Rig doesn't have reverse threading protection or panic lock. I'm not sure about you'd want the the panic lock anyway; I can see it really limiting speed on a 2:1. That pretty much leaves the Rig; it'll work well, I just don't know if it'll go as fast on a 2:1 as you seem to need to go.

I have an I'D and Rig; I may give that a try tomorrow and see what the speed feels like. Heck, I may even shoot some video, I've been known to do that you know.
grin.gif
 
Custom bollard at the crane hook seems best solution so far. basically what I mentioned earlied in the thread, need the ends of the bollard flared both sides so the rope won't bind on the keepers attaching the bollard to the crane shackle.

I'D or Rig DdRT is going to be a pain, rope will feed too slow, easy enough to test. When I've done it with a Grigri it was terrible, had to hold the tail up to get it to feed through, even then it was sloooow. It would be a pain to climb up on, wouldn't have the no hands self-tending a well tuned hitch will have. Anything that aggravates gets discarded pretty quick.
-moss
 
[ QUOTE ]
Custom bollard at the crane hook seems best solution so far. basically what I mentioned earlied in the thread, need the ends of the bollard flared both sides so the rope won't bind on the keepers attaching the bollard to the crane shackle.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, custom bollard attached to the crane. Though my thoughts on what that is are slightly different. Think combining an arborist block with swing cheeks and a racheting barrel bollard, like on a Hobbs. Barrel would roll freely for upward movement and lock, creating a drum brake for descent. Drum diameter, number of wraps required, would of course, need to be determined. A simple design really that would relieve an awful lot of stress from the existing 2:1 system.

[ QUOTE ]
I'D or Rig DdRT is going to be a pain, rope will feed too slow, easy enough to test. When I've done it with a Grigri it was terrible, had to hold the tail up to get it to feed through, even then it was sloooow. It would be a pain to climb up on, wouldn't have the no hands self-tending a well tuned hitch will have. Anything that aggravates gets discarded pretty quick.
-moss

[/ QUOTE ]

The Rig will be plenty fast in a 2:1 system if used with a 11 mm line and run through a block at the TIP. It will also tail easily for the short ascents required in work positioning.

Keep in mind, the Rig was not designed for a 2:1 system, so I still have my reservations of using it in that manner.

Dave
 
Dave,

My friend Dave Spencer from Toronto invented a rigging block that does just what you describe. I used it for a couple of jobs and it would be an amazing tool to have in place. The catch is trying to bring a product like this to market.

Dave and Loren Eide invented the FOS/Friction On Site bollard that ISC makes now.
 
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