Compact Bulldog Bone

I have never weighed myself with all my gear on but I weight 158 out of the shower. I like the 5/8" bollard. I do like the light touch it gives and it has always grabbed and held when needed.
 
Steve Connally said:
I'll try that. I like everything about the demo with the exception of not stopping my repel when I let go of the bone. I don't speed up with distance but I just don't stop. That could be a problem.
Click to expand...

I am 250# + gear. I am using 1/2" rope and the 5/8 bollard. As soon as I let off I come to a stop. On basically ground level I have messed around. Bouncing. Trying to get it to slip. Dont think I have moved but a fraction of an inch. Very Impressed to date.
 
I got 30lbs on you out of the shower. I'm sure I will be back and forth a few more times before I make a final decision. What really just need is a UniZagBulldogRunner.
 
When arms are shortened from stock what has been the effect of that modification? I know we covered this pages ago ,but there's so many pages and not enough time.... Ok.. I'm too lazy to search, so I'll rephrase. Any bone users whom have modified your bone by shortening the arms Top / bottom /both what have you experienced with this mod ??
 
hammer0419 said:
I am 250# + gear. I am using 1/2" rope and the 5/8 bollard. As soon as I let off I come to a stop. On basically ground level I have messed around. Bouncing. Trying to get it to slip. Dont think I have moved but a fraction of an inch. Very Impressed to date.
Click to expand...
Which rope are you hammering ....hammer?
 
Treetopflyer said:
When arms are shortened from stock what has been the effect of that modification? I know we covered this pages ago ,but there's so many pages and not enough time.... Ok.. I'm too lazy to search, so I'll rephrase. Any bone users whom have modified your bone by shortening the arms Top / bottom /both what have you experienced with this mod ??
Click to expand...
Two ways to shorten the arms.
1) Overall length (snub nose, or shortening from the bollard to the end)
2) Reducing the distance between the pivot point and the bollard.
Shortening by the means of option #2 will reduce the leverage the rope has on the top arms, which in turn puts more friction at the lower arms. This will in effect make it easier to actuate the unit, or give the upper arms a softer feel. With the softer touch, you can also shorten by option #1 for a more compact unit overall since the length for leverage isn't required as much.
 
oceans said:
Right now I'm on the fence about shortening my uppers by the pivot point.:frenetico:
Click to expand...

The amount you can shorten the pivot hole spacing is dependent on the type and diameter of rope used.

The stock spacing is 1.5" and some are reducing this to as little as 1" for use with fatter rope. I use Yale 11.7's and have found a 1.25" spacing is as close as I would try. When I made my DIY BDB (reported in post 1268) for Yale 11.7 rope, I used 1-5/16" spacing as the 1.25" was a bit closer to the edge than I wanted.

Climbed on it again today and as a recreational climber, I love the ease of release while still having a solid and reliable grab.

As a hobbyist with poor machining skills making my own on a manual mill, I have a greater appreciation of the reasonable cost paid to Gordon for my first BDB. Lots of little steps to make one.

IMG_20150115_161909_433 pe copy (Small).webp

IMG_20150120_164620_866 pe copy (Small).webp

Thanks again Gordon for the BDB and freely sharing information to those of us making modifications.
 
I'm not sure if it's been covered already but how are people setting a 3-1 haul back for those dreadful long downward sloping branches?

I'm used to using my Hitch Hiker with a Pinto pulley underneath to facilitate tending.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom