Compact Bulldog Bone

All you guys tending from the T-Spot I have a question. I have seen long teathers, short ones, really short one up there, any reason why? I got some stuff to play with and was wondering your thoughts. I am thinking about a reversed leg D shape out of steel also, I think Gordon mentioned that some pages ago also.
 
monkeylove said:
All you guys tending from the T-Spot I have a question. I have seen long teathers, short ones, really short one up there, any reason why? I got some stuff to play with and was wondering your thoughts. I am thinking about a reversed leg D shape out of steel also, I think Gordon mentioned that some pages ago also.
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I would still suggest going soft...little throwline bridgy thingy with stopper knots at the holes. Then you can adjust to whatever length is best for you in seconds...for pennies. :)
 
Spent some time on the demo bone. Wow. Like night and day. That new one kills it. The only thing I'll say is occasionally I'll have to rack my tail upward to set it like a hitch. As I was climbing rop was falling through it. Decent was a breeze. Tended perfectly. So much more like I expected. Now to find out what he actually did to make it work so well. I've got a huge job tomorrow so I'll update you with how it works out.
 
Steve Connally said:
Spent some time on the demo bone. Wow. Like night and day. That new one kills it. The only thing I'll say is occasionally I'll have to rack my tail upward to set it like a hitch. As I was climbing rop was falling through it. Decent was a breeze. Tended perfectly. So much more like I expected. Now to find out what he actually did to make it work so well. I've got a huge job tomorrow so I'll update you with how it works out.
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Awesome, Steve! I'm so glad it's working for you. Just two questions...
~ Can you explain a situation where it's not setting and you have to "rack your tail"?
~ How about rope flattening?
 
Canopy tied spiking up with about 80'of line below me. Took the chest harness off and it stayed flopped, not engaged at the level of my belly. Happened 2 times only with a lot of rope below me. No rope flattening at all.
 
Steve Connally said:
Canopy tied spiking up with about 80'of line below me. Took the chest harness off and it stayed flopped, not engaged at the level of my belly. Happened 2 times only with a lot of rope below me. No rope flattening at all.
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Steve Connally said:
At that height when I'm not tied in with the rope. The weight pulls all the slack yo the ground. Glad I have a spliced eye or I may have lost my rope.
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Yes, this will happen with tail weight, but do not be alarmed (not saying you were, just saying it for those that haven't tried one yet). The Bone would have to have been collapsed when you disconnected your chest harness. If you fell into the system, it would engage and stop your fall...all it takes is your weight pulling down on the bottom of the Bone to make it all engage.
 
I basically shortened the pivot length on the upper arm to 1-1/8" and widened the grooves on the inner portions of the arms from 9/16" to 5/8". also I shortened the upper release arms by 1/4". I grooved the spine slightly but just at the point that the rope runs through when tending slack. This causes the Bone to be on the edge of not engaging consistently. With a narrower rope it would likely be unacceptable. Steve you should try it with the 3/4" bollard, I bet this will help it engage.
 
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I'll try that. I like everything about the demo with the exception of not stopping my repel when I let go of the bone. I don't speed up with distance but I just don't stop. That could be a problem.
 
Steve Connally said:
I'll try that. I like everything about the demo with the exception of not stopping my repel when I let go of the bone. I don't speed up with distance but I just don't stop. That could be a problem.
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Steve, would you figure you're something over 200 lbs. with all your gear on? I can run a stock Bone on 7/16" KMIII with flawless performance and I'm probably 215 lbs. when all ready to rock.
 
Steve, like Gordon said try the 3/4" bollard.

If you don't like that then return the upper pivot point to the default position.
 
Climbed a little more today before the rain on my Vortex. I dropped 1 bushing size @7/16 and it seemed to give me a little more safety from accidental descent. Not sold yet on which bushing or any but it is easy to swap them out. I switched to regular steel cotter pins for all this messing around, and ordered 100 ss ones from my local guy. I don't reuse cotter pins ever but that is just me. After I get them dialed in I will put the Stainless ones in. I also installed the teather pin and teathered from there, it worked well for the little bit of time I got to ascend with it. What I need some "help" with is tending from underneath. Not that it doesn't or I can't, I would just like it to be smoother. I may just be spoiled by the RR and ZZ and it is certainly light years ahead of the Uni in that regard. Any thoughts?
 
monkeylove said:
Climbed a little more today before the rain on my Vortex. I dropped 1 bushing size @7/16 and it seemed to give me a little more safety from accidental descent. Not sold yet on which bushing or any but it is easy to swap them out. I switched to regular steel cotter pins for all this messing around, and ordered 100 ss ones from my local guy. I don't reuse cotter pins ever but that is just me. After I get them dialed in I will put the Stainless ones in. I also installed the teather pin and teathered from there, it worked well for the little bit of time I got to ascend with it. What I need some "help" with is tending from underneath. Not that it doesn't or I can't, I would just like it to be smoother. I may just be spoiled by the RR and ZZ and it is certainly light years ahead of the Uni in that regard. Any thoughts?
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When you're tending from below, just make sure all your weight is off it, whether walking the line during ascent or limb walk returns. Also, try a MA haulback. I think you'll see that works well.
 
I suspect Vortex may be on the fat side for the BDB. I wonder if you need the lower arm reliefs opened up a little and maybe even 0.010 taken off the spine where the rope rubs.

I've experienced very nice tending from below (assuming we're talking about pulling up the climbing rope to remove slack) with Yale 11.7's and Tachyon.
 
Yes we are. Those were alot of my thoughts also but I figured I woild ask first. I figure before I do anything I need to get about 10 or so more hours on it. A lot of stuff just works better as it gets more use and I don't want to jump the gun with less than a couple hours on them. I haven't really got a chance to even study the movements and interactions of all the parts yet. But we all know I will tweek something, I just can't help myself, lol.
 
My BDB works like a dream on Vortex. But, I did open up the lower arms a bit but honestly that didn't make much of a difference. Taking up slack on the BDB works well as long as you are not trying to pull your body weight through it. What I mean by that is hold onto the rope above the bone and take the weight off of it before you pull the tail. I can feel the extra drag if I try to haul my weight through the bone. This I believe is because it has no pulley and you are pulling at a disadvantage. I do not notice this extra drag when using a haul back setup, but that is, I believe, because the 3 to 1 makes it so much easier.

P.S. pretty much what Eric just said.
 
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I thought you had the Vortex dialed in. What upper bushing did you setle on. I started with the stock 5/8 but went down a size today. Not which I like better yet. I liked the 5/8 it just seamed a little soft for release. Worried incase something bumped it. I'm about 200lbs fully geared.
 
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