Adjustable Rope Bridge

At the moment I'm good. Right now the second biggest concern I have is marketability. It is and will be really cool but the practicality of an overpriced rope grab catching on is slim. Right now my cost to make it is almost 300 bucks. I know it doesn't see the wear a descender does and could probably be handed down to the next geration but that is still a lot of money. Obviously the first concern is safety of use.
 
monkeylove said:
At the moment I'm good. Right now the second biggest concern I have is marketability. It is and will be really cool but the practicality of an overpriced rope grab catching on is slim. Right now my cost to make it is almost 300 bucks. I know it doesn't see the wear a descender does and could probably be handed down to the next geration but that is still a lot of money. Obviously the first concern is safety of use.
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Spendy yes, but would you expect that the cost would go down once you started to mass produce the parts?
 
That's the million dollar question. Part of the reason I am milling up an Aluminum one is that it may be the only cost effective mass produced way. The problem with that being that it requires capital. As a 3D printed version, they can be ordered as needed, in fact there is a way to have you guys order all the parts from the printer. All I would need to send you is a bag of stuff. If you decide to use all these experimental pieces then that would be your choice. There are so many variables that still need to be ironed out.
 
Based on Richards videos, I came up with a slight work-around to his adjustable floating bridge concept, by using a carabener in place of zip-ties. My TreeMotion harness doesn't use paw-rigging plates for the floating bridge, so the biner holds the Roll n Lock securely and the 5' bite of 10mm Ocean Poly works great, while providing adequate room to include two stopper-knots on both sides, and while being clipped onto my harness to manage the slack. TreeXP-AdjustableFloatingBridge.webp When under load, the biner holding the Roll n Lock tends downward while the Roll n Lock gently pushes against the lower rigging plate, leaving the rest of the upper D-ring available for lanyard snaps, etc.
 
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John@TreeXP said:
Based on Richards videos, I came up with a slight work-around to his adjustable floating bridge concept, by using a carabener in place of zip-ties. My TreeMotion harness doesn't use paw-rigging plates for the floating bridge, so the biner holds the Roll n Lock securely and the 5' bite of 10mm Ocean Poly works great, while providing adequate room to include two stopper-knots on both sides, and while being clipped onto my harness to manage the slack. View attachment 43818 When under load, the biner holding the Roll n Lock tends downward while the Roll n Lock gently pushes against the lower rigging plate, leaving the rest of the upper D-ring available for lanyard snaps, etc.
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A rope with Aramid fibers is not the best choice for a bridge. The Technora in Oceans can chew through aluminum bits faster than you want. They're very coarse, tough fibers.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
 
Worthaug said:
A rope with Aramid fibers is not the best choice for a bridge. The Technora in Oceans can chew through aluminum bits faster than you want. They're very coarse, tough fibers.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
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Thanks. This is great feedback for a beginner like me. I have other options for rope bridge cord, including ones that are not as coarse, so I will switch it.
 
Simpleiowaguy said:
This is the part where you would insert some recommendations on what ropes to use instead Worthaug......
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Thank you sir, you are correct. globe, Warpspeed II, Blaze, Velocity, Platinum... anything you see on a stock saddle currently on the market.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739
 
I tied a slip knot and put a biner through it behind the paw on my TM today and got the bridge as short as it would go it worked great for the assent one up in the cnopy I just removed the biner and popped out the slip knot and my bridge was a normal working length. I don't see a need for a 6' bridge unless you were hip thrusting or wanted you device above your head for some reason. Help me to understand what the benefits are in having that long of a bridge.
 
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TJG said:
I tied a slip knot and put a biner through it behind the paw on my TM today and got the bridge as short as it would go it worked great for the assent one up in the cnopy I just removed the biner and popped out the slip knot and my bridge was a normal working length. I don't see a need for a 6' bridge unless you were hip thrusting or wanted you device above your head for some reason. Help me to understand what the benefits are in having that long of a bridge.
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I agree, a 6' bridge is overkill. I've shortened my floating bridge to 5' and as you indicate, there's two primary settings, one being tight as possible for ascending, and then the open setting for greater range of motion. Now there's nothing but two stopper (fisherman's) knots and the amount of excess cord is minimal.
 
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I just ligered my saddle and added a roll n lock. Made a hug difference. I just used BRW for my bridge. Buckcat saddle made it usable.
 
Frank, I'm following along on your clever bridge tender. I also sport an MCRS, and currently use Yoyo's open ring petzel and the roll n lock. It works but I've been wanting a detachable bridge so adorning the saddle won't be such a pita. Sucks climbing into the bridge and the leg straps at the same time. Some way to make the big hole of yours open and close without tools would be choice.
Also anyone have any comments or opinions on the rolling lock shearing rope? Not sure but I think I read something about that.
 
TJG said:
I don't see a need for a 6' bridge unless you were hip thrusting or wanted you device above your head for some reason. Help me to understand what the benefits are in having that long of a bridge.
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Just what you said. I climb on a hitch climber with an adjustable bridge and i can set the pulley above me head and get long pulls.
 
Yeah for sure. I use to use a thimble too. I just found that every once in a while the thimble would make contact with my hitch and sometimes release it. No right or wrong way, I just prefer the adjustable bridge now. I also like being able to shorten it when on a spar.
 
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An adjustable bridge is great. But my personal take on the rope grab is that it is pushing directly on the bridge paw. On the TM saddle I would worry about it metal on metal contact always pushing and rubbing on that paw. You could just clip a biner on it and use a short lanyard that way you would just be pulling on it or something. I am not trying to start a debate but for me the roll'n lock would have to be on the inside of the bridge.
Ted
 
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