Adjustable Rope Bridge

Hi, this is how i have setup my adjustable bridge on Tree Motion.

I have Rock Exotica swivel and green DMM ring on my bridge as attachment points depending on which device/ climbing system i am using.

I have made this adjustable by using a variation of the distel hitch tied with a short length of prussic running thru d rings to a seperate carabiner to make bridge as short as possible.

This has worked quite well for me in the 6months or so that i have been running it.

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Hi brocko, does the RIT knot prevent the swivel from reaching the hitch and unintentionally lengthening the bridge?
 
Hi brocko, does the RIT knot prevent the swivel from reaching the hitch and unintentionally lengthening the bridge?
Yes, this is not an issue for me however as the only time i use a shortened bridge is while accending. Otherwise bridge length doesnt bother me as long as my device is in reach.

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Not a massive fan of toothed camed devices on bridges, it'd be an extreme curcumstance but just the idea of it biting the rope on shock load. I have heard of a story of someone using a kong duck in the same fashon and it biting into and cutting the jacket of the bridge rope on shock load from a fall.

I have seen people use a 4 hole rigging plate and have the bridge rope pass through 3 of the holes in a way that it sinches on itself to give an adjustable bridge.
 
Just found out the Connect Adjust and the Adjustable Bridge are different in size.
View attachment 61787
Thank you so much for posting this. I've own the connect adjust for a long time and used it for an adjustable bridge too and whenever I saw pictures, I always thought they were different sizes but I could never find any measurements or anybody stating they were different sizes.
Now I really want the rope bridge adjuster because i always wanted the connect adjust to be a little bigger for bigger rope.
I have 2 connect adjusters if anyone wants them or wants to sell or trade off their petzl rope bridge adjuster.
 
View attachment 61862

Slightly less than 1/2” and 9/16”, the larger body would probably make it easier to descend.
Holy chit that's huge! Wow. I've used the small one for a bridge adjuster as well as lanyard adjuster and I think it's definitely the way to go for an adjustable bridge.
I'm def buying one...do u have a digital scale Brock? Wonder what the big one weighs
 
I always wanted the connect adjust to be a little bigger for bigger rope.

Son of a gun!!!! I never noticed a difference in size!! & Opposite of your wish, I've always wanted it to be smaller!! I've played around using two adjustable bridges with the Sequoia rings as D's.. things just get a little ... Idk.. clustered..

I had it set up with the Connect & a RopeMan Or CT RnL.

I really really like the solid work positioning you can get with two bridges.. but i like my entire bridge system to be adjustable 1. For ascent & 2. Donning & Doffing, I have a MB so i can just put it on like a coat.. i really like that ability.. call me lazy if you will..lol. in order to keep that ability with two Bridges, I'd have to do the two adjuster deal.

Since we're on the topic
I will add these three caveat's regarding the Connect Adjust Bridge system. 1. The stitching on the cordage is iffy at best, it really moves a ton, i dont care if its the strongest dyneema thread in the world, i just don't like how it seems loose. 2. I cannot for the life of me find a rating on the cordage. 3. If you use a hydra/rook or something bulky enough & your twisted 180 while the bridge is kinda snug, your hydra/rook/swivel will indeed trigger the Connect & unload on you. It's a mechanical so that release is pretty fast until enough is released to whereas the swivel slides out & away from the Connect. Basically #3 is same down side as using hitch cord, just a little more sensitive.

I've since gone back to a single adjustable setup with a semifloating Ribbed/Cammed RopeMan 1 & the original 16 strand RBW Arbormaster. By allowing the RM to float a little, i get it to lay nice & flat against the plate when loaded. I secure it to plate with very small non-ppe Home Depot shackle which allows it to float, as opposed to the whole static zip tie deal.
 
Son of a gun!!!! I never noticed a difference in size!! & Opposite of your wish, I've always wanted it to be smaller!! I've played around using two adjustable bridges with the Sequoia rings as D's.. things just get a little ... Idk.. clustered..

I had it set up with the Connect & a RopeMan Or CT RnL.

I really really like the solid work positioning you can get with two bridges.. but i like my entire bridge system to be adjustable 1. For ascent & 2. Donning & Doffing, I have a MB so i can just put it on like a coat.. i really like that ability.. call me lazy if you will..lol. in order to keep that ability with two Bridges, I'd have to do the two adjuster deal.

Since we're on the topic
I will add these three caveat's regarding the Connect Adjust Bridge system. 1. The stitching on the cordage is iffy at best, it really moves a ton, i dont care if its the strongest dyneema thread in the world, i just don't like how it seems loose. 2. I cannot for the life of me find a rating on the cordage. 3. If you use a hydra/rook or something bulky enough & your twisted 180 while the bridge is kinda snug, your hydra/rook/swivel will indeed trigger the Connect & unload on you. It's a mechanical so that release is pretty fast until enough is released to whereas the swivel slides out & away from the Connect. Basically #3 is same down side as using hitch cord, just a little more sensitive.

I've since gone back to a single adjustable setup with a semifloating Ribbed/Cammed RopeMan 1 & the original 16 strand RBW Arbormaster. By allowing the RM to float a little, i get it to lay nice & flat against the plate when loaded. I secure it to plate with very small non-ppe Home Depot shackle which allows it to float, as opposed to the whole static zip tie deal.
Rope labs or somebody did research with a lot of testing on the rope man, not sure which versions but I think both of them. If I remember correctly, They sheered the rope really easily. I know you can find the .PDF through Google. They pull tested a bunch of ascenders in their recommended configuration ( on a vertical rope) . It's a very thorough paper that has a lot of info you should read.
 
This is the one I was thinking of. But there is a lot of more info and discussion on using the ropeman.
The CT roll n lock is what you want. Look up yoyomans aka richard, videos of pull tests in the exact same configuration you are using the rope man.
He had one that was very strong, check it out.
 

Attachments

This is the one I was thinking of. But there is a lot of more info and discussion on using the ropeman.
The CT roll n lock is what you want. Look up yoyomans aka richard, videos of pull tests in the exact same configuration you are using the rope man.
He had one that was very strong, check it out.

Get outta here! That sucks!! You could say im not too happy with what u just showed me.. Damn.. Thats not what i wanted to see or what i was expecting.. This setup ive been running with the RM is perfect in terms of size/usability.

Idk man.. I'd like to see the CT tested in the same fashion.. & yes.. I've seen all Rich's more times than i can count.. The cams on the CT look as if they would have the same severing power... If not more.. as they are more jagged with additional edges in the middle... It's actually one of the reasons I'm using the RM over the CT sitting next to me.. That & it's half the size & i can get it to sit flush against my plate as opposed to The CT skating around & zip tied..

With that info read, i find very odd that Antec is putting the RM into use on a bridges.. Either that info is bunk/old, the RM Ribbed design has been updated or Antec is not taking things into consideration.. If it's severing cordage that easy, how are they using it???
 
Get outta here! That sucks!! You could say im not too happy with what u just showed me.. Damn.. Thats not what i wanted to see or what i was expecting.. This setup ive been running with the RM is perfect in terms of size/usability.

Idk man.. I'd like to see the CT tested in the same fashion.. & yes.. I've seen all Rich's more times than i can count.. The cams on the CT look as if they would have the same severing power... If not more.. as they are more jagged with additional edges in the middle... It's actually one of the reasons I'm using the RM over the CT sitting next to me.. That & it's half the size & i can get it to sit flush against my plate as opposed to The CT skating around & zip tied..

With that info read, i find very odd that Antec is putting the RM into use on a bridges.. Either that info is bunk/old, the RM Ribbed design has been updated or Antec is not taking things into consideration.. If it's severing cordage that easy, how are they using it???
Sounds like you are saying the issue is is more about the CTRollnlock potentially stripping the cover off the rope, when shock loaded and being used as a rope bridge adjuster. I've never heard of that actually happening to anyone, nor have I seen any testing to determine whether that is something that may concern us. The testing I have seen proved to me that the Rollnlock is up to the task, strength wise, as shown in Richard's pull test vid. I'd like to get more input from anyone using the Petzl Adjuster as a bridge adjuster, relative to how it may or may not work well on the Petzl 2019 Sequoia's new Ds.
 
You might be hard pressed to make the bridge adjuster see a full 4-6kn or whatever it takes to sever the whole rope...but there's always saver ways to make it adjustable or to move your system away and closer to you. So take it how you want to, I just thought you might want to see that data.
 
You might be hard pressed to make the bridge adjuster see a full 4-6kn or whatever it takes to sever the whole rope...but there's always saver ways to make it adjustable or to move your system away and closer to you. So take it how you want to, I just thought you might want to see that data.
 

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