Unicender

Well My Unicender arrived today. The workmanship is flawless, Morgan is a first rate machinist in my book. The instructions are clear and the photos are sharp and useful.

NOW, putting it through it's paces for the first time is a bit time consuming, LOL there are so many ways to use it. I (true to form) did everything backwards. However I had almost memorized the instructions off Morgan's web site. I started with the SRT set-up. I am able to attach the uni to my saddle several ways. I am using a Petzl mini-boss with a set of Top suspenders. One my first short ascent I was already pleased to see that the unicender exceeded the capabilities old my my RAD setup. Fine tuning with the attachment points is still under investigation. Ascending was a breeze, Ummm repelling, that's where things got interesting! Morgan WASN'T kidding when he wrote "We don't recommend ADAVANCE MODE with SRT".
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Even using the CONTROL MODE, it takes technique to be able to stop.

As I mentioned, I do everything backwards, I then set up a DbRT line. Again tweaking the length of lanyard attachment is crucial to each of our own body, and saddle styles. Again Morgan had a great caveat stating "keep your hands away from the pinch points!
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This is where descending on either method CAN be used. I weigh about 175, the control mode was very easy to control descent, the advanced mode is OK, BUT I need a lot more more practice.

I am off to try a 11mm Velocity in the uni. It was a pricey purchase because of our Canuck buck and or wonderful GST tax. That being said, it is an investment in efficiency, safety, and energy saved. I have only had it for a few hours, but I am already dreaming of other ways I can hook it into my lines or to my saddle (Hmmm Petzl calls 'em harnesses).

Thanks to Morgan for dreamin' the uni up, Thanks to Tom for being in the right place at the right time, and Thanks to TB for bringing NEW things to the attention of the arborists (and rec climbers) that can use 'em!
 
Wow, look at you, TD, all modern and all. LOL

Congrats on the new tool. I'll be interested in what you think of using Velocity through the Uni. I find it works, but I much prefer Tachyon. Slightly thicker.

Interesting reading this old thread. I, myself, would have been hard-pressed to agree with SRT as a replacement for doubled rope in working the tree. I would have been wrong.

This is a very smooth tool. And until somebody has tried it, they will be hard-pressed to understand it. I noticed lots of reticence in the early parts of this thread on working off the single line and its apparent additional dangers. I do not find this to be so.

You must be aware of your line at all times. Even with doubled rope, you only need to cut one to have the system fail.

Dave
 
Well Dave something came up and I got sidetracked (chance to do tree work) and didn't get to try the Velocity. I agree with you on the naysayers. Personally I avoided the true SRT like the plague. My definition of true SRT is using a device like a croll, which limited the climber to only ascend, switch to another system (usually DbRT) and go to work. I used a RAD system, BUT ascending required tending the slack.

Right out of the box I could ascend and descend without unclipping anything. WHICH helps an old fella like me make it to the end of the day!

The tool is SMOOTH IF you follow Morgan's instructions, especially the WARNING about the ADVANCED descent method.
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The rope cutting thing puzzles me, I am anal about using SHARP saws. Sure there is only about 1/2 the weight on each leg of DbRT, compared to the full load on SRT. I have deliberately cut line with a hand saw, with one end anchored and pulling the tail with my weak arm. Ropes aren't much of a contest for a sharp handsaw, even under low loads!
 
Yippeeee! Another Uni-Flyer in the squadron!

Keep us posted about your fine tuning.

Last night I changed the bridge on my TreeFlex to one that is adjustable just like my lanyard. At the TxTCC one of the climbers had a setup that I copied. I should be able to cinch the bridge tight and clip the Uni down low for ascent. Then, for working I'll extend the bridge to put the Uni up above my head and teeth-or anywhere in between.

It was fun to re-read the thread!
 
Well Tom since you already have a bunch of pics in this thread, I would like to see this NEW bridge, and the adjuster your using.

Hmmm now that you mention it, I have a Petzl grillion that needs a new rope. Plus a micro-grab that hardly ever gets out of the truck. I guess I better look to see IF they are rated for this type of application. Now ya gone and dun it! Just when I was gettin' close to the sweet spot!!!
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What every ya do with that adjustable bridge, keep it away from the unibrow, the pinch factor of the uni is INCREDIBLE! LMAO
 
so normally, I would think it would be the oppisite. I put the bridge high during acent then down low for decent. why would you want it away from your saddle when working the tree? i havent used a uni so how do you work the machanism when its above your head? how do you reach it when your way leaned out on a limb walk?
 
Having it low makes it perform like a chest ascender. With the adjustable harness bridge I should be able to keep it even lower than the front attachment on my TreeFlex.

I keep the Uni within arm's reach when working like a traditional DdRT hitch.

Think of the adjustable harness bridge as a variation on setups like Rich's Adjustable Bridge.
 
right, with rich's anchor bridge you extend the hitch while acending. then when working the tree you bring it back right down to your harness. It sounds like you do the oppisite with the uni. I dont see the advantage of having it extended above your head when working.
 
The Uni is either above my head or below my chin. Even when I climb with a hitch I keep hardware and knots away from my face. Having the rope move and get slapped in the face is a bit of a nightmare of mine.

Having flexibility covers lots of situations. I like having options.
 
How did you change your bridge Tom ,you got any pics.I was thinking of doing the same but didnt know if it would fly considering it hasnt been tested that way and may not be recommended by the manufacture-yadda yadda.But I still want to do it because it seems really versatile.I think I saw Mike Skiillan do something pretty cool with his bridge last year.
 
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Congrats Jamin,
I love mine. As a slacktender I use a locking revolver on the bottom ring of my swivel. Works pretty well for me.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's nice and easy. I'll do that.
 
I've been using a gated revolver for my slack tender. The bottom of the biner is a bit bigger and it fits into my treemotion bridge ring. Locking revolver biners do not fit and when you pit weight on them they snap into place, making removal of the revolver very difficult, especially when in the tree ( I remove my revolver for descent, otherwise it adds 2 inche of rope and will somewhat shock load when trying to descend.

I just got my uni back from the limbwalker crew. It's been over a month and oh how I've missed it. It did give me the opportunity to try and perfect my own f8 system though. Both tools are great to have
 
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