Frax
Participating member
In my opinion a tie in that far from the union shouldn't be relied on, ever. TIP failures are becoming more common as climbers adopt SRT.
Dr. Ball is reporting a big increase in accidents resulting from tie-in failure.
I don't think people appreciate the fulcrum effect clearly. A visual 'feel' isn't enough. I certainly can't judge the physics by visual. And a bounce test is being shown now as probably not the best idea, for a couple of reasons.
The loss of 'strength' diminishes more rapidly than one might think as the distance from the crotch to the tie in increases. Add to that the repetitive sharp flex that a limb endures when a particularly dynamic climber chugs up a rope.
The kinds of testing that Richard and others are doing is really important.
Thanks for sharing this, as these things need to be more widely understood. If I hadn't been following the science and the accumulating incidents over the last while, I might have decided that this tie-in was adequate just by gut feel and a quick test.
Dr. Ball is reporting a big increase in accidents resulting from tie-in failure.
I don't think people appreciate the fulcrum effect clearly. A visual 'feel' isn't enough. I certainly can't judge the physics by visual. And a bounce test is being shown now as probably not the best idea, for a couple of reasons.
The loss of 'strength' diminishes more rapidly than one might think as the distance from the crotch to the tie in increases. Add to that the repetitive sharp flex that a limb endures when a particularly dynamic climber chugs up a rope.
The kinds of testing that Richard and others are doing is really important.
Thanks for sharing this, as these things need to be more widely understood. If I hadn't been following the science and the accumulating incidents over the last while, I might have decided that this tie-in was adequate just by gut feel and a quick test.