The latest Matt Cornell harness

SoftBankHawks

Well-Known Member
Location
Japan
Your Valiant is looking very sweet, and I really like your idea of terminating the side dees with a splice... Gonna work on that one myself.

As someone who spent most of his career in saddles that do not have any bungee/elastic/webbing running from the waistbelt to the back of the leg-pads I almost alway remove it from any saddle which has it ... This includes the TreeMo, MCRS and the Valiant. I have found that all this connection seems to do for me is pull my leg-pads up, causing pinching...No thanks..

"The friction coefficient on the lower D's has to be the lightest on the market, webbing can not move as slick as rope and because of this the Valiant feels fast and intuitive when moving around in the canopy." This is one of the things that separates Matt's designs for the rest of the pack, and until you have experienced it you wont understand what you are missing. Matt's saddles flow like water out of a faucet.
I realized a couple of things about the rigging on the Side D, firstly, the multiplication of turns on the line and increased friction because of it seem to keep everything from moving around, which is obviously important but if you ever did need to change the i) position of D ii) length of hip riser then a little bit a pulling and pushing can facilitate both things. Sliding rings back allows riser to lengthen, and vice versa.
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
I thought about a rigging plate on the back. Too much bulk for me!! I have 2 sidewinders, both need repair. Paul's made me think of it. Love a sidewinder just wish I could fix mine.
 

Grafted_In

Active Member
Location
Hawai'i
I was thinking of using a RE Totem on the back. Ring available to rig life support, small o/biner attachment to run leg pad in and the parallel slots to strap a first aid pouch to. Top small o open for options. Hopefully its not too big...
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Location
Montana
Hi Dave, long time no speak, hope that all is well with you. I opened the link to see a little sailing block, you’ve got me there, would you mind elaborating for my slow mind ?!
Hey there, Paul, good to read you as well.

I attach that small block to the center of the back of my harness, a treemotion at the moment. Then run the leg loop bungee, a single piece connecting both leg pads, through that. It is much smoother than anything else I have tried and allows full and fluid articulation of the leg pads as you move while still being able to set them at a chosen position on your leg.
 

SoftBankHawks

Well-Known Member
Location
Japan
I thought about a rigging plate on the back. Too much bulk for me!! I have 2 sidewinders, both need repair. Paul's made me think of it. Love a sidewinder just wish I could fix mine.
Hi Steve, I love mine too, will have to get a second one instead of keep switching this between harnesses ! What’s wrong with yours, mechanism is pretty straightforward , must be an easy fix ?
 

SoftBankHawks

Well-Known Member
Location
Japan
Hey there, Paul, good to read you as well.

I attach that small block to the center of the back of my harness, a treemotion at the moment. Then run the leg loop bungee, a single piece connecting both leg pads, through that. It is much smoother than anything else I have tried and allows full and fluid articulation of the leg pads as you move while still being able to set them at a chosen position on your leg.
Got’cha, but guessing that the pads will still rotate under there own steam, was wondering how to fix this. Not up and down but circular control.
 

treegongfu

Well-Known Member
That leg pad rotation bothers me too. If you come up with a solution I hope you post it.

I wonder if a petzle ring open that captures the webbing would keep it in the correct orientation.
 

Brocky

Well-Known Member
Location
Michigan
If the pads are rotating on the rope maybe a knot, small piece of larger rope cover, or turkshead knot sewn at each end of pad. Seize, or whip the rope near the ring if that is what is rotating?
 

DSMc

Well-Known Member
Location
Montana
Got’cha, but guessing that the pads will still rotate under there own steam, was wondering how to fix this. Not up and down but circular control.
It actually does seem to make a little difference in keeping the leg pads from turning. I'm not sure why, possibly by not breaking the sticktional bond between the pants and pads?

Another thing I found on my MCRS is that I did not like having the lower rings as far away from my body as most seem to prefer. Bringing the lower rings closer, keeps the leg pad and rope combined total circumference down and definitely reduces the inappropriate crushing of body parts.
 
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SoftBankHawks

Well-Known Member
Location
Japan
That leg pad rotation bothers me too. If you come up with a solution I hope you post it.

I wonder if a petzle ring open that captures the webbing would keep it in the correct orientation.
I just tied up some thin cord between leg and back pad, on each side, similar to the Treemotion, see how that goes.
 

SoftBankHawks

Well-Known Member
Location
Japan
If the pads are rotating on the rope maybe a knot, small piece of larger rope cover, or turkshead knot sewn at each end of pad. Seize, or whip the rope near the ring if that is what is rotating?
It definitely does, will keep an eye on it, but more interested in making it look as cool and understated as Rico’s (failing) !
 

SoftBankHawks

Well-Known Member
Location
Japan
It actually does seem to make a little difference in keeping the leg pads from turning. I'm not sure why, possibly by not breaking the sticktional bond between the pants and pads?

Another thing I found on my MCRS is that I did not like having the lower rings as far away from my body as most seem to prefer. Bringing the lower rings closer, keeps the leg pad and rope combined total circumference down and definitely reduces the inappropriate crushing of body parts.
Roger that on the rings. Makes more sense to me anyway as it brings the climbing device closer, also allows use of the lower rings when spiking.
 

rico

Well-Known Member
Location
redwoods
Side dee terminated with a splice, then it is girthed to the center ring, then through the webbing and down through the rigging plate ( inside to out), then back through the webbing where the tail is put through the girth hitch, then finished up with a half hitch...

Zero creep or movement on the side dee. Side dee is independent of the suspension to the forward rigging plates/ring. Easily adjustable.. Super clean and tidy with no knot on the side dee...Love it...


IMG_2235.JPG IMG_2234.JPG
 
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SoftBankHawks

Well-Known Member
Location
Japan
Side dee terminated with a splice, then it is girthed to the center ring, then through the webbing and down through the rigging plate ( inside to out), then back through the webbing where the tail is put through the girth hitch, then finished up with a half hitch...

Zero creep or movement on the side dee. Side dee is independent of the suspension to the forward rigging plates/ring. Easily adjustable.. Super clean and tidy with not fucking knot on the side dee...Love it...


View attachment 69116 View attachment 69117
Clean !
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
Hi Steve, I love mine too, will have to get a second one instead of keep switching this between harnesses ! What’s wrong with yours, mechanism is pretty straightforward , must be an easy fix ?
One is in a constant state of retraction and thus disengages the ART Positioner so Its easy to lean back and keep going. I think the other just doesn't wind back at all. I'll have to look
 

Steve Connally

Well-Known Member
The leg pads are reacting differently from the MCRS I never had an issue with the leg pads rotating with the MCRS. I'm thinking i'll just move the rings to the other side of the webbing. That switching sides should eliminate the rotation as for me it only rotates in the clockwise direction.
 

treegongfu

Well-Known Member
Rico's latest setup looks like the solution to adding a treemotion style side as it would prevent the rings from being pulled apart when bridge not loaded.
 

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