The Hitch Hiker

No that will not work. The hitch has to be attached to the top biner so that the 2 bars (dogbone and biner) are pulled in diferent directions to cause the 2 friction points on the rope. You can turn a biner sideways and have the eyes on the straight back section of it in the top slot, I would show a picture but not sure how to attach it here.

Kinda funny, I was so excited when DMC and I came up with the idea of the Dogbone, still now I think it is a great way to attach the hitch cord. Guess not everybody thinks alike. DMC attaches his spliced eye hitch cord by running an aircraft quality bolt through the top slot with an eye on each side.

What I like about the dogbone also is it enables you to make minute adjustments to your cord length.
 
Paul- when we put the steel carabiner in the top slot we put the spine throughout the slot so when you sat down the hitch pushed the steel carabiner against the climbing line thereby creating friction.
 
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... I was so excited when DMC and I came up with the idea of the Dogbone, still now I think it is a great way to attach the hitch cord...
What I like about the dogbone also is it enables you to make minute adjustments to your cord length.

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Paul, I still think the dogbone is a simple and safe solution for the hitch cord attachment on the Hitch Hiker. Even though my prototype HH has an aviation bolt that holds a Grizzly spliced Bee-line eye-to-eye it is not an optimal setup. Hitch cord characteristics change over time and use, so those small adjustments, that the Dogbone allows, is of great benefit in the fine tuning of the system.

This may sound a bit hypocritical coming from me, but I would strongly caution against any form of experimenting with the Hitch Hiker. This device is married to the hitch cord; if one fails, they both fail. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations and cautions. Take the time to get to know it. Its full uses and potential will not necessarily be immediately obvious causing a desire to change something that, in truth, doesn't need changing.

David
 
I think most peoples concern is that slamming down on a fishermans knot is going to make it impossible to untie.

My understanding from Dave and others is, that since the hitch doesnt see all the weight the knots dont get pulled down super tight.

I do know that whenever I put my all body weight on a double fishermans knot (which is not used to connect two ropes, thats two double fishermans) it can get so tight that I need a screwdriver to untie it. The idea of breaking two welded tight knots everytime I want to undo my hitch is very un-appealing.

If someone with a HH were to kit it up and then drop on to it, bounce up and down a bit and then show what its like to untie the knots in the dogbone, that might alleviate some people concerns.

I know some of you dont make videos so someone can go ahead and send their HH my way and I will have a video out promptly. :) :)
 
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Kinda funny, I was so excited when DMC and I came up with the idea of the Dogbone, still now I think it is a great way to attach the hitch cord. Guess not everybody thinks alike. DMC attaches his spliced eye hitch cord by running an aircraft quality bolt through the top slot with an eye on each side.

What I like about the dogbone also is it enables you to make minute adjustments to your cord length.

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I have no problem using the Dogbone with knots (and this is coming from a splicer). Like you say Paul, the knots allow you to fine-tune your cord length to find that really sweet spot.
 
Knot sure what size your holes are, production units are .425", as you know its all a balancing act. If I make the holes bigger I need to make the dog bone bigger so then I need to make the slots bigger, so then I need to make the HH bigger :) Everybody wants lighter so gotta make it smaller......
 
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I think most peoples concern is that slamming down on a fishermans knot is going to make it impossible to untie. .....I do know that whenever I put my all body weight on a double fishermans knot (which is not used to connect two ropes, thats two double fishermans)

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Well, since you brought it up--the knot on each end of the dog bone is a double overhand, not a double fisherman's.

A double fisherman's does connect two rope ends. It is comprised of two double overhand knots, each tied around the standing part of the other. The most common use is to create a prussic loop for footlocking.

There's an article floating around that goes into detail about the double fisherman's, double overhand, and scaffold knot.

You're right about the double overhand being difficult to untie after it's loaded. Any comments from people who have tried the HH???
 
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There's an article floating around that goes into detail about the double fisherman's, double overhand, and scaffold knot.

You're right about the double overhand being difficult to untie after it's loaded. Any comments from people who have tried the HH???

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First Mahk, very good observation and thanks for bringing that up. Please let us know when you find the article, because I too thought there was one floating around, but haven’t been able to locate it in my archives.

Second, Kevin is right, as there is no difficulties whatsoever in releasing the double overhand knot from the HH and I have loaded it very hard too.
 
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The bridge on the my Treemotion came with the double overhand but it is dressed and set differently. Do People notice if this is easier to release after loading?

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Is it like this? I've been using this as a stopper and I noticed in one of the photos of the hitchhiker what appears to be the same stopper. Apparently a double overhand variant, don't know what it's called. Easier to untie than standard double overhand after loading and very secure.

https://vimeo.com/48563346

-AJ
 
treebing and Chris, thanks for the response.



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Please let us know when you find the article, because I too thought there was one floating around, but haven’t been able to locate it in my archives.


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Here it is Chris. Maybe Tom or Mark will put it in the Articles section here on TBzz.
 

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