@rico
This is a very effective notch, much more than adequate to do the job. Once again you criticize without substance... and not surprisingly, you don't know what you are looking at... you call it a "fucked undercut", but have no explanation of what is wrong with the cut, what could have been improved or done differently.. so there is nothing to learn from or respond to. Just trash talk with no substance.... That's you!
On the other hand there is something that may help others learn from that cut... the 28" bar was shorter than the notch by about 4". I could have moved the bucket around the far side to finish that side of the notch, but I didn't need to... I used the plate cut, intentionally high to open up a line of sight to the far corner of the notch and whittle it out with the tip of the bar. Maybe a west coast faller doesn't need the line of sight, and can match those face cuts blind. I can't and I don't know any arbs that can, nor have I ever seen any videos of it being done on a conventional or open face. so I use this method to ensure that there is no bypass in the face cuts.
I do it because it works, not because it's pretty.... there wasn't as much height to the hinge fibers on the far side of the notch, so while cleaning out the far corner, I scored the upper angled cut of the face with a couple little surface kerf cuts, to effectively create some height to the front of the hinge on that side. This really wasn't necessary, but it was easy enough... Maybe two scored kerf cuts are what you are seeing that you have such a foul attitude towards..
This is basically a short bar technique that can be used to cut a clean notch without moving to the far side of the tree... One of the things I like about it is that is reliable and easy to visually check, so it can be trusted with your life when you are in the tree... Many times there isn't enough reach to get tot he other side of the tree with the bucket.. Other times it's just faster to do a quick clean out than move around the tree...
To a west coast faller like Pat Lacey, who can match his undercuts perfectly, on a 4' Humboldt, with a short bar, this must look like a slow and clumsy method. Realistically though, the vast majority of arbs will never get the training or experience to develop those kind of saw skills.. This works well enough and is easy enough to be taught to a newbie.
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Can you walk us no bodies through this cutting process step by step in detail?
I hope you woke up in the morning, put your pants on, got into the bucket truck, spoke to the client(where they gave you the green light to damage maples and crush the swineset) set the truck up, but the. What was the order of events from there?!
When and why did you need to make the nicks for the face? Another expert move?
Angle cut first, or flat cut?
If you knew your bar was short why did you bore cut?
Are you telling us this tree was 32” diameter inside bark at 45’? Musta been humongous! That’s what I understand when you say you’re 4” short with a 28” bar.
Did you bore all the way in and set your hinge and back chain all the way out?
Tag line?
Why did you choose to gut the hinge?
Why did you leave so much holding wood on the left side?
Did you think a TH or swinging Dutch would work on a such a decayed stem?
If not why did you set up as such?
Now here is what it looks like to me.
You marked the tree at 45* for some reason (after all these years you need guides?!)
You gunned the tree with the top cut, loose chain or dull or miss filed rakers or worn bar. As it looks like the cut bends as the saw entered the wood.
Perhaps you were taking you bottom cut a little at a time snapping out little sections. Maybe a little nervous popping it with a axe? I Donno on this, why? Careful to prove a point and not bypass?
Some how, perhaps you got tired and the power head got a little heavy? And the final bottom cut slanted upwards? Which caused a uneven apex. No big deal so you cleaned it out, but in the process you cut a little into the hinge on the far side! (Could be bad lighting?). Regardless it looks like a shit ton of effor, with poor results.
Now for some reason you plunge in for the back cut. At what point did you discover you are 4” short? The face cut? Looks like it’s the 1/3 guideline, so you’re playing it safe for some reason. Now you must have continued the plunge, and set you’re hinge, but missed your gun and laid the tip into the hinge a little hard. Now you either flipped the power head or back chained out. Walking the power head back to square and then the tip came through the log. Essentially setting a TH or a irregular hinge, or a fucked up hinge. You were likely wanting to leave a trigger but the moment didn’t come and you cut all the way out?!?
Seems like a fucked plan to begin with. Wasted effort in the wrong application.
Now I ain’t a timber faller, and only have been on 2-3 projects where we got a few loads out. I’m not a removal climber, and mostly do pruning work. BUT I can sure as hell fell a tree with a short bar while staying on one side of the stump with out the jackery shown. You say you haven’t mastered this, and suck at it? How and why can that be? You easily have a decade and a half on me?
Humble up or shut up Daniel.
Now go change the story, and make up points now that you know the details on the criticism.
Didn’t you say you cut this with a top handle and had to double cut? But you forgot that you were too lazy to swing the bucket around and now say you’re using a short 28” bar?! WTF!
Or ignore this
Or cry about being bullies
Or shoot another pm to whine to the admins
I’m sure you’re getting many many private messages from 100’s of folks supporting you in this argument. World class experts even! But I know you’re a classy guy and won’t say who they are
