John@TreeXP
Branched out member
- Location
- Bainbridge Island
Looks to me like the extra ring would be a good DdRT attachment point.
Sticht Hitch
- Thread starter Brocky
- Start date
Should be life support if used for moving rope system.
The hitch cord is 8mm Tendon’s Timber, I’ve only seen it at arbsessions.com, they also have a 10mm. Using a 10mm cord you will need the larger ring in front, it will cause unwanted friction if the cord is too close going through the ring.
Maybe you missed it, but the hitch is adjustable by the distance between the wraps and the ring and twist. I’ve had no trouble with the 8mm due to the adjustability. You could even Use smaller diameter cord with a longer separation, but it gets harder to push down to descend.
The hitch cord is 8mm Tendon’s Timber, I’ve only seen it at arbsessions.com, they also have a 10mm. Using a 10mm cord you will need the larger ring in front, it will cause unwanted friction if the cord is too close going through the ring.
Maybe you missed it, but the hitch is adjustable by the distance between the wraps and the ring and twist. I’ve had no trouble with the 8mm due to the adjustability. You could even Use smaller diameter cord with a longer separation, but it gets harder to push down to descend.
John@TreeXP
Branched out member
- Location
- Bainbridge Island
@123Craig .. This is the extra (stainless steel) ring I was talking about, as a possible DdRT connection point. Maybe the upward force on the ring can create a Hitch Hiker like effect.
John@TreeXP
Branched out member
- Location
- Bainbridge Island
Not quite the outcome I imagined, but it is nice and compact. Maybe there is some practical way to dial it all in.
I'm thinking a beefier load rated shizll that connects the rings by a longer stem which the climbing rope could be wrapped around in a spiral, so that the stem is in line with the vertical climbing rope, then the hitch could be made to go through both rings, with the upper ring also acting as the tending point in SRT, or the MRS self tending point. As the hitch engages when loaded, then the friction of the rope around the stem would also increase. But when unweighted the shizll would tend the hitch as it normally would. Hope I am making sense.
I’m guessing your idea is to add more metal to the hitch for heat dissipation, which would help. I tried it on a figure eight and it doesn’t seem be workable, it would jumble up too much and bind. It might be good for descending, but hand tending is lost. And the twist would probably no longer keep the slack in check. I have used a fig 8 with the Oval VT, but just inline with the rope.
The hand tending is nearly instantaneous and effortless how I have them now.
The belay tube above worked good but was too fiddley needing to take a hitch eye off to move the climb line. I went back to something separate from the hitch, I’m now using an Omega Pacific rigid stem belay tube strapped to a leg loop. A bight is passed through the slot and over the peg, and then pull out the slack. The hitch is completely compressed, and all the friction is managed by the tube.
The hand tending is nearly instantaneous and effortless how I have them now.
The belay tube above worked good but was too fiddley needing to take a hitch eye off to move the climb line. I went back to something separate from the hitch, I’m now using an Omega Pacific rigid stem belay tube strapped to a leg loop. A bight is passed through the slot and over the peg, and then pull out the slack. The hitch is completely compressed, and all the friction is managed by the tube.
123Craig
Participating member
This might sound like a dumb question, though I have to ask/make sure (as my experience with prussic cords is extremely limited...) - It is the case that generally you need a larger diameter prussic cord for a larger diameter climbing line? - Therefore the smaller the diameter the prussic cord is - the greater the chance of having trouble tending and binding sooner?
I've been doing some Sticht testing...
Just as Brocky suggested - the larger black ring allows too much slack to dissipate from the upper wraps to the below eyes (and therefore it will bind sooner)...
The smaller ring (swapped places with the black ring) in its place is better for maintaining needed slack for the upper wraps.
I tried a biner in place of the black ring, though I don't think the bend radius is as large and smooth as the ring - therefore the the action of the hitch is just jerkier and less reliable.
This did not tend - the black ring put extra tension on the prussic and prevented it from gaining any slack for the upper wraps to loosen (and the hitch to tend). I never tried it with the rings swapped around - so it might be better with the smaller ring in place of the black ring (plus I had to thread the climb line through the black ring).
This last configuration worked the best - I might even begin to try it during my working day - it keeps the black ring tucked down below, neat and compact. The small problem with this configuration is that I've had to thread the black ring through the rope as part of it.
If anyone could suggest anything that might clip on (like a quickie or shackle/snap) that might match the large, round radius of the black ring? - I'd love some suggestions.
I'm still just using what equipment I have, trying to get best results, finalising testing to know best things to get before maybe buying anything.
Edit: I just realised that Louhut has already covered a lot of what I'm testing here back in 2019. Apologies for repeating.
I've been doing some Sticht testing...
Just as Brocky suggested - the larger black ring allows too much slack to dissipate from the upper wraps to the below eyes (and therefore it will bind sooner)...
The smaller ring (swapped places with the black ring) in its place is better for maintaining needed slack for the upper wraps.
I tried a biner in place of the black ring, though I don't think the bend radius is as large and smooth as the ring - therefore the the action of the hitch is just jerkier and less reliable.
This did not tend - the black ring put extra tension on the prussic and prevented it from gaining any slack for the upper wraps to loosen (and the hitch to tend). I never tried it with the rings swapped around - so it might be better with the smaller ring in place of the black ring (plus I had to thread the climb line through the black ring).
This last configuration worked the best - I might even begin to try it during my working day - it keeps the black ring tucked down below, neat and compact. The small problem with this configuration is that I've had to thread the black ring through the rope as part of it.
If anyone could suggest anything that might clip on (like a quickie or shackle/snap) that might match the large, round radius of the black ring? - I'd love some suggestions.
I'm still just using what equipment I have, trying to get best results, finalising testing to know best things to get before maybe buying anything.
Edit: I just realised that Louhut has already covered a lot of what I'm testing here back in 2019. Apologies for repeating.
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Burrapeg
Been here a while
- Location
- Puget Sound
Here is how I keep the larger size ring from riding up into the hitch. These little short sewn-eye tethers were sold by WesSpur some years ago for the old HH. Seems to work fine and anything similar would probably work OK.
A bow shackle would be midline attachable instead of the lower ring, or carabiner.
Positioning the ring vertically, with the twist inside, seemed to create less friction than horizontally as you have it. Plus it can be used as a handle to slide the hitch up.
Positioning the ring vertically, with the twist inside, seemed to create less friction than horizontally as you have it. Plus it can be used as a handle to slide the hitch up.
Another way to configure the hitch that seems to work a little smoother. Compact and all in one piece. A plastic thimble or small rigging ring with an opening cut, can slip on mid line. The wedding ring in the twist makes it smoother, or works easily without.
kludge
Participating member
- Location
- Eastern PA
Ok. Coming back to this as I said I would. I really like this hitch.
I have used the smaller isc ring for all hitches. I run it on my long lanyard (DEDA). I used to have one end with the stitch and the second end with a standard English prussic tended with a shizzle. Now have both ends tended with the stitch hitch.
As a lanyard adjuster it allows for DdRT or SRT set ups. Have often set up my lanyard with a munters to work off a single line from my lanyard. Have recently bought a large ISC ring to play with the MOSS set up off of one end of the lanyard. The stitch hitch is a great adjuster for that set up.
Also have used the stitch hitch for SRT with a DMM Captain Hook. Tends great.
Finally, I carry a spare section of cord and ring on my saddle as a spare system. (My primary is usually a HH2.) A number of times I have used the spare system on my tail or on a second line. So light and simple a set up makes the stitch a great back up system that you can have with you to run DdRT or SRT.
Really love this hitch. So versatile and simple.
I have used the smaller isc ring for all hitches. I run it on my long lanyard (DEDA). I used to have one end with the stitch and the second end with a standard English prussic tended with a shizzle. Now have both ends tended with the stitch hitch.
As a lanyard adjuster it allows for DdRT or SRT set ups. Have often set up my lanyard with a munters to work off a single line from my lanyard. Have recently bought a large ISC ring to play with the MOSS set up off of one end of the lanyard. The stitch hitch is a great adjuster for that set up.
Also have used the stitch hitch for SRT with a DMM Captain Hook. Tends great.
Finally, I carry a spare section of cord and ring on my saddle as a spare system. (My primary is usually a HH2.) A number of times I have used the spare system on my tail or on a second line. So light and simple a set up makes the stitch a great back up system that you can have with you to run DdRT or SRT.
Really love this hitch. So versatile and simple.
Thanks for the review, nice to know others are using it. I’ve recently switched from a tubular belay device to a small ISC figure 8, and tie the hitch on it. I only need to put a bight through the large eye of the eight and clip. I’m also using one of the figure eights on the end of a lanyard in place of a large ring for choking.
kludge
Participating member
- Location
- Eastern PA
@Brocky, what are you doing with the bight through the figure 8? I am not picturing what this does for you.
I really like this idea. I am attaching my ring with a marlin spike hitch. Kind of bulky and moves around a bit. Really like the cleanness and removability. Where did you get the small figure eights? Not even seeing them on the ISC website.
The figure 8 takes the load, wear and friction off the hitch when descending fast, or a long distance. Being centrally located and not able to interfer with the hitch is very convenient.
The figure 8s are used with their Smart Snaps used on rope courses. And what a coincidence (cough, cough), I happen to have some for sale. I got a deal on them and want to pass it on, they’re $18 each.
The figure 8s are used with their Smart Snaps used on rope courses. And what a coincidence (cough, cough), I happen to have some for sale. I got a deal on them and want to pass it on, they’re $18 each.
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kludge
Participating member
- Location
- Eastern PA
Thanks @Brocky. I like the sketches of the figure 8 modes. Makes much more sense to me now.
Another idea for where to place the stopper knot after trying various places at the bottom of the hitch, was to put the knot up in the wraps. The girth hitch on the carabiner is nice and it is easier to adjust the amount of slack in the wraps.
