Sticht Hitch


Well-Known Member
Glad you like the hitch! The ring under the twist works good, and it can be turned vertically for another slight variation.
Below are the two main ways I use the hitch, if sewn or spliced eyes are used, a metal ring, or tube for the twist works as well as the rigging rings. Any type of metal can be used, around a one inch inside diameter will allow most 8mm eyes. A lot cheaper than the rigging rings, and works just as well.
Unless you are going to a larger diameter cord in the 10mm range, a bigger ring for the front might not be advisable, if the sections of cord going through the ring are spread too far apart, slack that developers in the hitch will move up to the wraps creating friction and will eventually bind up.
Since there isn’t much hardware to soak up heat from friction, a heat resistant type hitch cord is best, the 10mm HTP you mentioned wouldn’t be suitable, too stiff and only polyester, that is the climb line used in a lot of the pictures.
The bottom hitch shows how to get as close as possible to the hitch and is cheaper than a sewn cord, a five foot piece for 8mm cords. The stopper knot is only an overhand for the picture, use a stopper that you feel is secure. I’m finding that both versions work about the same.


Active Member
Thanks Brocky.

Apart from the Notch black ring (1.5" ID) you see in the last pic, I also have a small ISC ring (1" ID) just like the one on the friction saver, though it has nothing on it - I'll try and use that smaller ring to thread the wraps and eyes through, and maybe use the black ring in behind the twists. If the Sticht Hitch still is binding and hard to tend, then I might up the anti and buy/try some 10mm hitch cord.

Is that Teufelberger Ocean Polyester 10mm hitch cord in the above photo?

Any other favorites from anyone regarding 10mm hitch cord?

Testing what I got for now, before having to buy.


Well-Known Member
Should be life support if used for moving rope system.

The hitch cord is 8mm Tendon’s Timber, I’ve only seen it at, they also have a 10mm. Using a 10mm cord you will need the larger ring in front, it will cause unwanted friction if the cord is too close going through the ring.

Maybe you missed it, but the hitch is adjustable by the distance between the wraps and the ring and twist. I’ve had no trouble with the 8mm due to the adjustability. You could even Use smaller diameter cord with a longer separation, but it gets harder to push down to descend.


Well-Known Member

@123Craig .. This is the extra (stainless steel) ring I was talking about, as a possible DdRT connection point. Maybe the upward force on the ring can create a Hitch Hiker like effect.


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I tried again and found that I could descend if I pulled down on both the hitch and the other section of rope, the down rope.


Well-Known Member
I'm thinking a beefier load rated shizll that connects the rings by a longer stem which the climbing rope could be wrapped around in a spiral, so that the stem is in line with the vertical climbing rope, then the hitch could be made to go through both rings, with the upper ring also acting as the tending point in SRT, or the MRS self tending point. As the hitch engages when loaded, then the friction of the rope around the stem would also increase. But when unweighted the shizll would tend the hitch as it normally would. Hope I am making sense.


Well-Known Member
I’m guessing your idea is to add more metal to the hitch for heat dissipation, which would help. I tried it on a figure eight and it doesn’t seem be workable, it would jumble up too much and bind. It might be good for descending, but hand tending is lost. And the twist would probably no longer keep the slack in check. I have used a fig 8 with the Oval VT, but just inline with the rope.
The hand tending is nearly instantaneous and effortless how I have them now.

The belay tube above worked good but was too fiddley needing to take a hitch eye off to move the climb line. I went back to something separate from the hitch, I’m now using an Omega Pacific rigid stem belay tube strapped to a leg loop. A bight is passed through the slot and over the peg, and then pull out the slack. The hitch is completely compressed, and all the friction is managed by the tube.


Active Member
This might sound like a dumb question, though I have to ask/make sure (as my experience with prussic cords is extremely limited...) - It is the case that generally you need a larger diameter prussic cord for a larger diameter climbing line? - Therefore the smaller the diameter the prussic cord is - the greater the chance of having trouble tending and binding sooner?

I've been doing some Sticht testing...

Just as Brocky suggested - the larger black ring allows too much slack to dissipate from the upper wraps to the below eyes (and therefore it will bind sooner)...


The smaller ring (swapped places with the black ring) in its place is better for maintaining needed slack for the upper wraps.


I tried a biner in place of the black ring, though I don't think the bend radius is as large and smooth as the ring - therefore the the action of the hitch is just jerkier and less reliable.


This did not tend - the black ring put extra tension on the prussic and prevented it from gaining any slack for the upper wraps to loosen (and the hitch to tend). I never tried it with the rings swapped around - so it might be better with the smaller ring in place of the black ring (plus I had to thread the climb line through the black ring).


This last configuration worked the best - I might even begin to try it during my working day - it keeps the black ring tucked down below, neat and compact. The small problem with this configuration is that I've had to thread the black ring through the rope as part of it.

If anyone could suggest anything that might clip on (like a quickie or shackle/snap) that might match the large, round radius of the black ring? - I'd love some suggestions.


I'm still just using what equipment I have, trying to get best results, finalising testing to know best things to get before maybe buying anything.

Edit: I just realised that Louhut has already covered a lot of what I'm testing here back in 2019. Apologies for repeating.
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Well-Known Member
A bow shackle would be midline attachable instead of the lower ring, or carabiner.
Positioning the ring vertically, with the twist inside, seemed to create less friction than horizontally as you have it. Plus it can be used as a handle to slide the hitch up.

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