Sticht Hitch

[kludge]

Thanks for the review, kludge, if using for a climb line make sure you have a way to descend quickly, if needed. The simplest would be a Munter hitch, but there are many devices also.

Thanks for the tip. I climb with a figure 8 on my saddle so that safety consideration is taken care of.

 

[Naturarbo]

I have learned by trial n error that the distance between the ring and first wrap is the most important factor in these hybrid hitches,second is the fact that if your ring moves from start point within no time that hitch will jam,that will be gone when you can secure the ring.
Obvious the diameter/type of rope,hitch and rings will all weight on your system.
With new ropes I believe that will slide down really easy.

 

[Brocky]

The Sticht is also is adjustable by the distance between the wraps and the lower section.

I tired these configures and others without much luck when used SRT. The bottom one also had a velcro strip just above the ring when I was trying it.

 

[Naturarbo]

today my climb has changed welcome stitch hitch,our bag as more tricks,version I showed before

 

[John_KAYS]

@Brocky have you ever tried putting the attachment point in the twist? I mean:

I haven’t climbed on it yet, but it seemed to put much more of a bend in the rope. It felt like it worked when I was bench testing it.

 

[Brocky]

Excellent idea!! No rigging ring or thimble is needed, it’s easier to tie, and seems to tend effortlessly. I came up with a variation that has the twist in place of the first crossover and then just loops the opposite way around the carabiner to form eyes, this keeps the hitch attached if the stopper were to squeeze through the ring. Will need to try both for a better review.

 

[John_KAYS]

Excellent idea!! No rigging ring or thimble is needed, it’s easier to tie, and seems to tend effortlessly. I came up with a variation that has the twist in place of the first crossover and then just loops the opposite way around the carabiner to form eyes, this keeps the hitch attached if the stopper were to squeeze through the ring. Will need to try both for a better review.
View attachment 65519

Yeah, that was a concern of mine when I was setting the stopper. Looked like it would take some doing but possibly could squeeze through. I was fiddling with larger stoppers, but I like your solution. More fool proof.

 

[Rick Teinert]

What is the significance of the ring? I feel like that's a bit redundant...There are plenty of knots and hitches that perform.

 

[Brocky]

In the Stitch, it acts as a buffer for the load going into the bottom wrap, and along with the twist, helps to keep the four sections of cord that goes through it together to prevent slack in the hitch from going from the wraps to the eyes. It’s these four sections of cord that take enough of the load off of the wraps and allows the Sticht to be able to descend on a stationary line in a smooth and controlled way.

 

[John_KAYS]

Excellent idea!! No rigging ring or thimble is needed, it’s easier to tie, and seems to tend effortlessly. I came up with a variation that has the twist in place of the first crossover and then just loops the opposite way around the carabiner to form eyes, this keeps the hitch attached if the stopper were to squeeze through the ring. Will need to try both for a better review.

Hrmm. I tried it in real life... I think it doesn't perform like I wanted it to. It puts a bend in the rope, it's just that it almost bypasses the ring when the attachment point is on that side. Maybe it is worth playing around with a bit more, but I keep going back to the original "Brocky" Stitch and it...well, works!

 

[rope-a-dope]

I was messin and came up with a thing! Tied with a basic ring on a prussik loop. Seems smooth enough for a descent in a pinch. Tending will suffer after full loading, but it can do it will the typical slack-taking motion.

 

[Brocky]

Hrmm. I tried it in real life... I think it doesn't perform like I wanted it to. It puts a bend in the rope, it's just that it almost bypasses the ring when the attachment point is on that side. Maybe it is worth playing around with a bit more, but I keep going back to the original "Brocky" Stitch and it...well, works!
[/QUOTE]
I came to the same conclusion, it will work, but there is too much of the load on the wraps.

I was messin and came up with a thing! Tied with a basic ring on a prussik loop. Seems smooth enough for a descent in a pinch. Tending will suffer after full loading, but it can do it will the typical slack-taking motion.
View attachment 65544

Another interesting concept which I think can be used on many hitches, and it doesn’t have to be a loop. I tried it with Michoacán with a regular hitch cord and was able to completely collapse the hitch and using only the ring to descend. Separating the ring a little from the carabiner makes easy hand tending, but takes two hands to do.
I could tend with one hand by adding the Petzl Ultralgere, and it eliminated the cord on rope contact. However it took more effort on the brake hand to hold.

 

[Brocky]

Have come up with a further development of the rope-a-dope Ring Thing, took the legs out of the ring and was still able to generate friction. Then replaced the ring with a tubular belay device with a v groove that makes it very easy to add friction and stop with less effort. It’s what I’ve been searching for to pair up with SRT hitches. It only requires taking one eye off to slip the rope in or out, everything stays in place when not in use.

And this is how it looks when not in use for initial ascent.

 

[rope-a-dope]

Nice one Brocky! I don't have any tube style belayers or stitch plates, etc. I liked the ring stitch on a prussik loop because it is a relatively ubiquitous item and it is sigular. These hitches are something I might use as a secondary system and putting together something complicated to tie with 3 or 4 pieces isn't gonna happen in the tree for this guy.
I think I do have one of those plastic sheaves to mess with somewhere...happy play time guys!

 

[Brocky]

I found a good belay tube to fit nicely under the hitch, added a small strap to keep the tuber from jamming into the rings and makes hand tending very easy. The Simond Karo also has a slot on the side to lock the rope off. Once set up, only one eye is removed to put the rope in or out, everything stays connected, nothing to drop.

 

[Mowerr]

Wow this thread has really evolved...I love it

 

[Brocky]

Here’s the Cliffs Notes version of this thread I did a few weeks back

 

[123Craig]

Just testing this hitch just now, only with gear that I have... - Ignore the friction saver attached to the ring - it's really the ring locked in between the twists and the climbing line that I'm interested in... - I feel it could be a benefit to the rigging thimble in that as it will not turn like the rigging thimble - it might not wear on the prussic on the edges... - what does anyone think?

I want to still try a thimble though, as well as more suitable hitch cord (is sterling 10mm htp still the favourite?), and a wider hole diameter ring as the main friction plate - though I don't have much $ to spare, and it might take a while to get here in Canada (seems all the mail is slow these days)... We'll see.

I went from Blake's hitch MRS to Bulldog Bone SRS - so don't know best value prussic cords for single line - anyone want to suggest me their favorites? - Money is tight for me now...

The prussic is 30" in this photo, though wonder if anyone is making a 28" work for them for the Sticht Hitch? - I'd prefer less length if possible.

This 8mm (I think - it doesn't say anything on the label) binds up too much, tending is bad.

 

[Brocky]

Glad you like the hitch! The ring under the twist works good, and it can be turned vertically for another slight variation.
Below are the two main ways I use the hitch, if sewn or spliced eyes are used, a metal ring, or tube for the twist works as well as the rigging rings. Any type of metal can be used, around a one inch inside diameter will allow most 8mm eyes. A lot cheaper than the rigging rings, and works just as well.
Unless you are going to a larger diameter cord in the 10mm range, a bigger ring for the front might not be advisable, if the sections of cord going through the ring are spread too far apart, slack that developers in the hitch will move up to the wraps creating friction and will eventually bind up.
Since there isn’t much hardware to soak up heat from friction, a heat resistant type hitch cord is best, the 10mm HTP you mentioned wouldn’t be suitable, too stiff and only polyester, that is the climb line used in a lot of the pictures.
The bottom hitch shows how to get as close as possible to the hitch and is cheaper than a sewn cord, a five foot piece for 8mm cords. The stopper knot is only an overhand for the picture, use a stopper that you feel is secure. I’m finding that both versions work about the same.

 

[123Craig]

Thanks Brocky.

Apart from the Notch black ring (1.5" ID) you see in the last pic, I also have a small ISC ring (1" ID) just like the one on the friction saver, though it has nothing on it - I'll try and use that smaller ring to thread the wraps and eyes through, and maybe use the black ring in behind the twists. If the Sticht Hitch still is binding and hard to tend, then I might up the anti and buy/try some 10mm hitch cord.

Is that Teufelberger Ocean Polyester 10mm hitch cord in the above photo?

Any other favorites from anyone regarding 10mm hitch cord?

Testing what I got for now, before having to buy.